What did you mod today?

I can see them now, awesome!

This may but be a huge thing to many, but I finally got around to setting up an Anduril build environment yesterday. An Ubuntu VM running on Windows. I downloaded TK’s repository, and started figuring out how to use it. I couldn’t find any guides, so I just winged it, downloading dependencies as they came up.

After some time, I got a basic standard Q8 hex to build! I was ecstatic! I started fiddling with the settings, and managed to add/remove features with ease. Even figured out how to change the rythm of the new fancy button blink with a hint from TK herself. I was super stoked. I had put a few hours in tinkering around, and decided to take a break.

Then later, I knew what I wanted to do. After modding me and my buddies H03s with a Lexel TA driver last year, we wanted Anduril, but a 3 channel + aux LED version hadn’t been built yet. Zeroflow was kind enough to build me one, and gave me the documentation and modded build files of I ever wanted to try it myself.

I wanted to try it myself, to get the new fancy button blinking on my H03.

I spent about 2 hours trying to make it work. A few things have changed in the Anduril code since then, so while I could see what Zeroflow did in the old code, matching it in the new code was difficult for me. And many edits to several build files, and fruitlessly searching the forum for information on where the heck “#define USE_STEPPED_RAMPING” went, I decided to try building it anyway and just leave it in. Last year, we couldn’t leave it in because there wasn’t enough room with the extra channel added. But with the new code, it worked! It built, and it flashed, and here it is working:

So that is my latest modding story. I know I’ve got a long way to go, and more to learn about how all this Anduril code works, but I’m making progress! And I’m extremely happy!

Thanks to everyone here for all your hard work! None of this would be possible without all of you. I really appreciate you all.

Just fyi, I've built Anduril successfully in Atmel Studio on Windows - you don't need a Ubuntu VM on Windows to build it. It's a much more comfortable environment for me, but of course I work in VS 2017 every day, and Atmel Studio is based on an older version of Visual Studio.

Cool, would like to see the finished light as I do have a friend that’s a avid caver…

Thanks!
I did try atmel studio last year during the first go around. But I couldn’t even get standard unedited files to work. They would build, but had strange problems, and if they even flashed they didn’t actually run.

I’m fairly comfortable in a Linux environment, used to use it more often than I have in the last few years. But I’m more comfortable in a command line than I am in a powershell. I think TK actually recommends a Linux environment, and it works pretty well.

Yea, TK doesn't do WIndows

Haha, thanks man :smiley: :beer:

Sure I did a lot of research; how hot it should be, tools to use etc. And the new MCPCB surface text changed color due to too much heat.
But hey, gotta start somewhere. Lessons learned :student:
And now I have ordered a little 200W hot plate for future endeavors :+1:

So I got some Black Flat… and a new Olight M22
So naturally, I measured the stock M22 : 2,9A and the advertised 23kCd from the XM-L2.
I swapped it for a BlackFlat, now it makes a nice 76kCd :slight_smile:

While I was at it, I also put one in my GT Mini…
4,5A and 220kCd, not as good as my D1S (260kCd) but the reflector is known to be far from perfect so I’m quite pleased with that result !

I just love the Emisar D4!!! :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes:

Here’s a white one I modded with:

  • metal switch boot
  • Lexel aux bezel leds (pink and ice blue)
  • Firmware: TK’s Anduril as modified by Pobel, with aux LED support.
  • Emitter Swap: two XPL HI 5D combined with two XPL HI 3D. Very bright and high output, without looking greenish like SST-20.

Main thing different between this and my last D4 mod was that I used 0.5mm Silicone sheet as the backing for the metal button boot. In my 2 prior builds I used 1mm thick Silicone sheet.

0.5mm thick Silicone sheet is thick enough for this purpose and allows the entire button boot to be thinner. With the new backing, the metal button is recessed below the level of the stock switch retaining ring, which further reduces the risk of accidental activation and makes it easy to find the button in the pocket.

The switch is not lit in this mod. Would be nice to do, but doing so is complex and would almost certainly result in the switch button being higher.





I decided to use the original flood led and only changed the malfunctioning driver and spot led

I broke my opus charger. The pin that goes into the charge port whe t to far and cracked the plastic(bottom picture). I cut of the 12v plug and solderd the cables straight to the board. The little pin inbetween red and black was connected in the original plug but i only had two wires and didnt really see the use for it. Does anyone know why its there? It works just fine now.


Turned my S2+ copper into a triple :heart_eyes:

Looks like a heavy duty headlamp… thanks!

Modded a Astrolux S41:

- 7x XM-L2 on OSH Park ~

- AWG18 Driver-Cable

- changed Switch-Board against copper board with brass two pills

  • bridged driver spring with AWG18

Got 6300 Lumen with VTC6 and without bezel and glass. With bezel and glass only 5100 Lumen.
It is not verry precise as twisty flashlight.

Now the head is in nitro-thinner for dedoming.

Didn checked amps.

Last night I took a Lexel D4 aux board and manually replaced all 15 LEDs with different colored ones.

Those 0603 LEDs are absolutely tiny! :smiling_imp: Even with the fan on the hot air gun of my reflow station set to minimum it was still enough thrust to blow those miniscule LEDs right off the board from 6 inches away when they weren’t soldered on. After some trial and error, I finally got technique going where I held the LED in position with tweezers in my right hand while blowing hot air on it with the hot air gun in my left hand.

Took me a couple hours to replace all 15 LEDs. :sunglasses:

Wow Firelight, nice sticktoitiveness! :slight_smile:

I played around with a couple of lights today, one for a buddy of mine and one for me. The friends light is a TK61, I put a White Flat on a 32mm MaxToch MCPCB in it. I had done a power boost to it some time back for him with a de-domed XM-L2 and he told me it was doing 575Kcd when he sent it to me. Today it’s making 830Kcd at 5M indoors… too cold and yucky out for me to be doing a longer distance test. :smiley: It makes 980 lumens using 2 30Q’s in the 4 cell carrier. I think he’s going to be pleased. :wink:

The other, my light, is a Convoy C8, a prototype in desert sand with a black coated metal button in the tail cap. Simon decided to make the production C8’s with rubber boots so this one is a bit different. Now it’s even more different, it has a boost driver and XHP-35 D4 3A HI making 2139 lumens on a 30Q. :smiley: I had to re-cut the driver shelf to accept a 20mm driver, instead of making a threaded retaining ring I made a slightly oversized brass press fit spacer to allow the battery tube to mate to it and press the driver in. Works nice, should serve to heat sink the driver via the tube. Love it when a plan comes together! I don’t have a lot of regulated lights so this one will be unique in that regard as far as my working collection goes. This one’s going to be getting a lot of use now for sure!

Maybe try 7x XHP50.2 3volt emitters next…. :open_mouth: Might need a bigger battery…like a 30T :smiley:

Very interesting PCB, I wounder how well that works?

Each LED is only being driven to about spec with a non-dtp mcpcb right now but I wounder how well it would work on a single LED setup.

LOL, I remember that ledboard, still have 3 but never used them, I believe it was a scaru project, at least 4 years ago. Pictures of the build would be welcome of course. :slight_smile:

Haven’t seen David around for a WHILE!