rough translation from TLF forum, looks like things are moving ?
Short update
- Lumintop is working again
- ToyKeeper has summarized all the problems of Proto4
- Neal has forwarded the list to Lumintop
- The emitters have been confirmed again: XP-L HI 3D (~ 4875K) and LH351D 4000K 90CRI
- The optics have been confirmed: Carclo 10511
- ToyKeeper’s 0105 firmware should be used
I’m sending my beamfoot prototype to @ andreas0401 this week. My Beamshotstrecke will be available again in 14 days*
rough translation from TLF forum, looks like things are moving ?
Short update
- Lumintop is working again
- ToyKeeper has summarized all the problems of Proto4
- Neal has forwarded the list to Lumintop
- The emitters have been confirmed again: XP-L HI 3D (~ 4875K) and LH351D 4000K 90CRI
- The optics have been confirmed: Carclo 10511
- ToyKeeper’s 0105 firmware should be used
I’m sending my beamfoot prototype to @ andreas0401 this week. My Beamshotstrecke will be available again in 14 days*
Is the summary list of forwarded issues available somewhere in this thread?
Messing around with an idea for a dual-purpose clip thats only possible due to the FW3A’s geometry. Default is a deep carry, with a cap clip on the tailside. The clip goes through itself, having to pull it out to get a cap-bill through. The sketch is exaggerated to make the design obvious. The first bend coming off of the body wouldn’t create a gap between it and the return bend
There is one part I am not familiar with however. It says in the original post that “An unusual feature is the electronic tail switch. This allows the light to do much fancier things than a clicky switch, yet retains the ergonomic benefits of a clicky tail switch.”
What type of extra things does the electronic tail switch allow us to do that a clicky switch wouldn’t?
There is one part I am not familiar with however. It says in the original post that “An unusual feature is the electronic tail switch. This allows the light to do much fancier things than a clicky switch, yet retains the ergonomic benefits of a clicky tail switch.”
What type of extra things does the electronic tail switch allow us to do that a clicky switch wouldn’t?
A mechanical tail switch is on or off and uses “off time” or “on time” to determine the action you are making. An e-switch can have hold functions and utilize single/double/triple/etc.-click operations without the light turning off at all.
If you’ve used any of the Emisar or Fireflies lights, its allows for an updated version of that UI vs something like Bistro or Biscotti where its just taps to do a quick power cycle that also changes modes.
A mechanical tail switch is on or off and uses “off time” or “on time” to determine the action you are making. An e-switch can have hold functions and utilize single/double/triple/etc.-click operations without the light turning off at all.
That sounds very useful. I’m mostly used to dual switch lights, so I didn’t realize single mechanical switch lights would have an issue with turning off when you switch modes.
I’m mostly used to dual switch lights, so I didn’t realize single mechanical switch lights would have an issue with turning off when you switch modes.
Yeah, a mechanical switch physically disconnects power. It literally can’t keep putting out light while the switch is off, because it’s effectively unplugged. The user interacts with it by connecting and disconnecting power, which makes it a little difficult to do anything fancy.
An e-switch works more like clicking a mouse on a computer. It can be up or down, but in both cases the computer keeps running while you press the button.
Stuff like “hold the button to ramp” doesn’t work on a mechanical power-disconnect switch.
Its a balancing act between fitting shorter cells (how they were designed and sold by the original manufacturers) or longer button-top/protected cells. You always sacrifice some fit on one end of the spectrum for more on the other.
Its a balancing act between fitting shorter cells (how they were designed and sold by the original manufacturers) or longer button-top/protected cells. You always sacrifice some fit on one end of the spectrum for more on the other.
I would not group button top together with protected. A button top only adds 1mm while a protection circuit adds 4-5mm. That’s a big difference.
The FW3A should fit flat top and button top (most or all, I’m not sure), but not protected cells.
From my highly non-technical & less than scientific research , my predictions for FW3A Battery Fitment are…..
Most all 18650 Flat Tops will work.
Most 18650 Button Tops will (most likely) not work. This will depend entirely on the height of the 'Button Top' installed on the cell... but it ain't looking good for "button tops".. .
These findings are based on the stated Maximum battery length of 66mm for the FW3A.
Since both pair of my calipers are hiding from me at the moment , the measurements listed below are taken mostly from LIION Wholesale & MTN.. with a couple from Illumn & IMR.
Can you please add me to this list?
rough translation from TLF forum, looks like things are moving ?
Short update
- Lumintop is working again
- ToyKeeper has summarized all the problems of Proto4
- Neal has forwarded the list to Lumintop
- The emitters have been confirmed again: XP-L HI 3D (~ 4875K) and LH351D 4000K 90CRI
- The optics have been confirmed: Carclo 10511
- ToyKeeper’s 0105 firmware should be used
I’m sending my beamfoot prototype to @ andreas0401 this week. My Beamshotstrecke will be available again in 14 days*
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
I, too, am interested in getting in on the pre-order list. I’m interested in purchasing three of them, undecided on tints.
I’d also like to be added to the pre-order list. One of each emitter option.
Thanks mortuus!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Is the summary list of forwarded issues available somewhere in this thread?
Messing around with an idea for a dual-purpose clip thats only possible due to the FW3A’s geometry. Default is a deep carry, with a cap clip on the tailside. The clip goes through itself, having to pull it out to get a cap-bill through. The sketch is exaggerated to make the design obvious. The first bend coming off of the body wouldn’t create a gap between it and the return bend
A
….____….B
……..________……..C
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
@ PeasFull ………….. hmmmm
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
Interested in 1 with the LH351D 4000K 90CRI.
There is one part I am not familiar with however. It says in the original post that “An unusual feature is the electronic tail switch. This allows the light to do much fancier things than a clicky switch, yet retains the ergonomic benefits of a clicky tail switch.”
What type of extra things does the electronic tail switch allow us to do that a clicky switch wouldn’t?
A mechanical tail switch is on or off and uses “off time” or “on time” to determine the action you are making. An e-switch can have hold functions and utilize single/double/triple/etc.-click operations without the light turning off at all.
If you’ve used any of the Emisar or Fireflies lights, its allows for an updated version of that UI vs something like Bistro or Biscotti where its just taps to do a quick power cycle that also changes modes.
That sounds very useful. I’m mostly used to dual switch lights, so I didn’t realize single mechanical switch lights would have an issue with turning off when you switch modes.
Thank you.
Yeah, a mechanical switch physically disconnects power. It literally can’t keep putting out light while the switch is off, because it’s effectively unplugged. The user interacts with it by connecting and disconnecting power, which makes it a little difficult to do anything fancy.
An e-switch works more like clicking a mouse on a computer. It can be up or down, but in both cases the computer keeps running while you press the button.
Stuff like “hold the button to ramp” doesn’t work on a mechanical power-disconnect switch.
I’m in for 1
Please add me to the interest list. Thank you! This is my first post ever on here, I’ve been reading forever though.
I am already on the list but can you add me for one more please
I love my wife’s toy poodle
Hello! Put me down for one of each :D. Thank you.
I’ve been lurking for a while, finally joined because this looks pretty interesting. I’d like to be in for one (for now)…
Put me down for one, please.
XPL HI.
We are what we repeatedly do. Therefore, excellence is not an act, but a habit.
I’ve been reading up on this light lately (new to the forum); and yup, I think I “need” one. Please put me down for 1.
Thanks TK and crew.
Edited to add: most likely an XP-L HI, but possibly the Samsung depending on beam and tint bin.
Ok, I can’t take it anymore, please put me on the list for two with xpl hi. Thank you!
I’m interested in the Samsung emitter option. Please add me to the list. Maybe the XPL version too
Hi,
Please add me on the list for for one xpl-hi. Thanks!
Thanks – it wasn’t that far back, so I actually started with “A” and read everything after.
I really hope the final product will accept a wider range of battery lengths. Nothing to lose by doing that.
Its a balancing act between fitting shorter cells (how they were designed and sold by the original manufacturers) or longer button-top/protected cells. You always sacrifice some fit on one end of the spectrum for more on the other.
I would not group button top together with protected. A button top only adds 1mm while a protection circuit adds 4-5mm. That’s a big difference.
The FW3A should fit flat top and button top (most or all, I’m not sure), but not protected cells.
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Just made an account for this,
put me down for a LH351D!Edit: Put me down for an XPL instead!
Please put me down for 1 LH351D! Thanks!
From my highly non-technical & less than scientific research
, my predictions for FW3A Battery Fitment are…..
This will depend entirely on the height of the 'Button Top' installed on the cell... but it ain't looking good for "button tops".. .These findings are based on the stated Maximum battery length of 66mm for the FW3A.
Since both pair of my calipers are hiding from me at the moment
, the measurements listed below are taken mostly from LIION Wholesale & MTN.. with a couple from Illumn & IMR.
https://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.illumn.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=common/home
…….
Flat Tops
_______
Button Tops
So, in summary; there are plenty of flat top batteries that will fit the FW3A even ‘if’ no button tops fit at all.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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