FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

[Tom_E]

@Firelight2

@raccoon city

...Maybe I should put disclaimer in my signature that says I'm not a modder, and I do not solder.

There’s something special about having an $8 flashlight that you modded with $80 in aftermarket parts.

It's never too late to start modding!

Yea, my $11 ZY-T11 clone quad mod:

- quad MCPCB from MtnE, quad 10621 optic (MtnE I think), 4 LH351D's from MtnE, alum S2+ spacer sanded down, 2 brass screws

- CK OSHPark driver, Blue BeCu spring, SMD parts, wires

- UCL lens

- light pipe from DigiKey, switch from Digikey/Mouser

- ohh, and can't forget one copper penny, ~1978

Just shipping alone? Yikes! Makes you wonder...

[cabfrank]

I would, of course, want the XP-L version as soon as it can be done. Next, i would say do the SST-20, if it can be done sooner. Then, do the LH351D, when the good tint emitters are available. I think a lot of people would really like the SST-20, and probably plan to make that swap anyway. I would personally get one of all three, and then a second one of whichever I like best.

[MascaratumB]

@Firelight2

It’s never too late to start modding spending lots of money in flashlights that may go from junk to jewels, or spending lots of money in pieces and tools when you could be buying new flashlights!

I fixed it for you Firelight :innocent:

EDIT: what Tom E said

[JasonWW]

@teacher

Personally, I don’t care either way, but I thought someone might find the data useful. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.

It might be misleading.

I’d wait till later.

[ToyKeeper]

@oweban

My vote is wait on LH351D, so people have the option of throw or flood.

True. Though in this case it’s more like “flood or … more flood”. And if that’s still not enough flood, there are two levels of even floodier frosted optics which can be used.

[teacher]

@JasonWW

@teacher

Personally, I don’t care either way, but I thought someone might find the data useful. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.

It might be misleading.

Not for anyone who reads fairly well.

[oweban]

@ToyKeeper

@oweban

My vote is wait on LH351D, so people have the option of throw or flood.

True. Though in this case it’s more like “flood or … more flood”. And if that’s still not enough flood, there are two levels of even floodier frosted optics which can be used.

Also very true! SST20 with frosted optics could fit the bill nicely, and is quite quick and easy to swap out.

(that said, it won’t affect me as I’ll be going HI; 4000K is too warm for me )

[netprince]

@ToyKeeper

I’m hoping it’ll fit button-top cells, at least. Earlier prototypes did.

I’m also hoping things will happen quickly. But I’m hearing that LH351D may be delayed longer than expected, because they were apparently not ordered back in December when I thought they were. And it sounds like there’s some sort of difficulty in getting them. So I’m kind of wondering if it would make more sense to use SST-20 instead.

I know it has come up before, which is why I mention it, but what do people think of the idea?

Here’s a very brief summary of the biggest differences:

• LH351D has a wider, flatter, floodier beam. Probably more lumens.
• SST-20 has a narrower, throwier beam. Illuminates farther away.

Both can still have hit-or-miss tints depending on the exact bin used.

To be clear, XP-L HI 3D is still a “yes”. If I understand correctly, XP-L HI should be able to go to production as soon as the driver fit issue is worked out. The question is only about the LH351D version.

I’d buy an sst20 version, if its a good tint.

[cabfrank]

As said above, there isn’t really going to a throw/flood option, they are all “floody”. I think the SST-20 would be a great option. I honestly might even prefer it to the LD, depending on how much lumen difference there will be.

[saypat]

hoping to receive it by Christmas -

[KawiBoy1428]

@saypat

hoping to receive it by Christmas -

2019 or 2020?

[teacher]

Ouch…… …

[BlueSwordM]

Same thing here.

Doesn’t really matter if it’s using an SST-20 setup, or an LH351D setup.

In a light with such small TIR optics, more throw is always beneficial, so an SST-20 option would be great, especially since it has even better R9 in the CRI spectrum.

I do prefer using the LH351D in lights like the BLF Q8, but for the FW3A?

Full on SST-20 4000k 95CRI.

[Coscar]

@KawiBoy1428

@saypat

hoping to receive it by Christmas -

2019 or 2020?

Free tomorrow !!

[BurningPlayd0h]

@ToyKeeper

I’m hoping it’ll fit button-top cells, at least. Earlier prototypes did.

I’m also hoping things will happen quickly. But I’m hearing that LH351D may be delayed longer than expected, because they were apparently not ordered back in December when I thought they were. And it sounds like there’s some sort of difficulty in getting them. So I’m kind of wondering if it would make more sense to use SST-20 instead.

I know it has come up before, which is why I mention it, but what do people think of the idea?

Here’s a very brief summary of the biggest differences:

• LH351D has a wider, flatter, floodier beam. Probably more lumens.
• SST-20 has a narrower, throwier beam. Illuminates farther away.

Both can still have hit-or-miss tints depending on the exact bin used.

To be clear, XP-L HI 3D is still a “yes”. If I understand correctly, XP-L HI should be able to go to production as soon as the driver fit issue is worked out. The question is only about the LH351D version.

After hearing your comments on LH351D’s beam profile in a TIR triple/quad, and now seeing plenty of beamshots of them… SST-20 all the way.

If people want more flood a wider TIR optic is easily available, or they can just use DC Fix/scotch tape like many of us do for lights already.

[Firelight2]

Agreed.

It’s all a matter of personal taste. But I find that LH351D is just a bit too floody for me. I much prefer the extra punch of XPL HI or SST 20.

I expect when I get my FW3A I’ll probably swap out the emitters for XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

SST 20 is nice, but I find it looks a bit too green-tinged. Also compared to XPL HI, SST 20 with its lower Vf it draws more current which causes the head to heat up faster resulting in the driver ramping down output faster.

[ToyKeeper]

@Firelight2

XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.

[DavidEF]

@ToyKeeper

@Firelight2

XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.

That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. :partying_face:

[funkychateau]

[quote=BurningPlayd0h]

[quote=funkychateau]

@teacher

@funkychateau

Nothing to lose by doing that.

Its a balancing act between fitting shorter cells (how they were designed and sold by the original manufacturers) or longer button-top/protected cells. You always sacrifice some fit on one end of the spectrum for more on the other.

No need to consider protected cells, just unprotected button- and flat-tops. It seems that this model has limited its ability to accommodate a range of cells by using a short set of springs. Resistance shouldn’t be the reason - this light should draw substantially less current than the Emisar D4, which accommodates both flat- and button-top cells pretty well.

[Tech25]

It seems like a lot of people on this thread have said they want the SST-20.

My preference would be the SST-20 as well as long as it’s high cri and as close to the BBL as possible. Especially if picking this led over the LH315D would speed things along.