It might be misleading.
I’d wait till later.
True. Though in this case it’s more like “flood or … more flood”. And if that’s still not enough flood, there are two levels of even floodier frosted optics which can be used.
Not for anyone who reads fairly well.
Also very true! SST20 with frosted optics could fit the bill nicely, and is quite quick and easy to swap out.
(that said, it won’t affect me as I’ll be going HI; 4000K is too warm for me 
)
I’d buy an sst20 version, if its a good tint.
As said above, there isn’t really going to a throw/flood option, they are all “floody”. I think the SST-20 would be a great option. I honestly might even prefer it to the LD, depending on how much lumen difference there will be.
hoping to receive it by Christmas -
2019 or 2020? 
Ouch…… 
…
Same thing here.
Doesn’t really matter if it’s using an SST-20 setup, or an LH351D setup.
In a light with such small TIR optics, more throw is always beneficial, so an SST-20 option would be great, especially since it has even better R9 in the CRI spectrum.
I do prefer using the LH351D in lights like the BLF Q8, but for the FW3A?
Full on SST-20 4000k 95CRI.
Free 
tomorrow !!
After hearing your comments on LH351D’s beam profile in a TIR triple/quad, and now seeing plenty of beamshots of them… SST-20 all the way.
If people want more flood a wider TIR optic is easily available, or they can just use DC Fix/scotch tape like many of us do for lights already.
Agreed.
It’s all a matter of personal taste. But I find that LH351D is just a bit too floody for me. I much prefer the extra punch of XPL HI or SST 20.
I expect when I get my FW3A I’ll probably swap out the emitters for XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.
SST 20 is nice, but I find it looks a bit too green-tinged. Also compared to XPL HI, SST 20 with its lower Vf it draws more current which causes the head to heat up faster resulting in the driver ramping down output faster.
That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.
That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. :partying_face:
[quote=BurningPlayd0h]
[quote=funkychateau]
No need to consider protected cells, just unprotected button- and flat-tops. It seems that this model has limited its ability to accommodate a range of cells by using a short set of springs. Resistance shouldn’t be the reason - this light should draw substantially less current than the Emisar D4, which accommodates both flat- and button-top cells pretty well.
It seems like a lot of people on this thread have said they want the SST-20.
My preference would be the SST-20 as well as long as it’s high cri and as close to the BBL as possible. Especially if picking this led over the LH315D would speed things along.
I’ll take it with sst20’s.
Had to laugh, I said something similar long ago: I'm no Modder, but I can Solder. NovaTac 120 Upgrade! | Candle Power Flashlight Forum! (warning: off-site link)
That single mod really led to a big lifestyle change. Here I am nearly 10 years later waiting for yet another rear-mounted e-switch light that will inevitably get modded at some point.
Been a while since I logged in, saw 40 posts in this thread and thought “maybe?….”. Nope. That’s OK, I’m patient. I put an arbitrary annual flashlight limit on myself and the FW3A will be IT for the year. If it isn’t ready to ship by December I’m sure there will be some other light waiting to fill the 2019 quota.
SST 20 for a bit more throw is fine and welcome for me.