FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Gunga
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If the tint is good and not green I’m fine with sst20

ToyKeeper
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Firelight2 wrote:
artifacts the 10507 produces are a ring of flower petal like shapes at the edges outside the beam. These petals come from individual emitters so will be different colors and won’t blend.

Yes, there are 12 individual marks, arranged like the hours on a clock. And with one emitter different, it’ll look even more like a clock, because the marks at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock will be a different color. In addition to those, I find XP-L HI in 10507 also produces three large corona “petals” which surround the hotspot like a big triangle. One of these three would also be a different color. Maybe it’s not so noticeable with 4000K and 5000K though, since they’re both pretty neutral.

With 10511 the big triangle is gone and the clock hour marks are much less noticeable.

mortuus wrote:
should

I only quoted this one key word… because “should” really doesn’t apply to any part of this process. And for life in general, I find that “should” is usually just a path to disappointment.

JasonWW wrote:
There’s a lot of possible explanations and we really don’t know what the situation was.

Exactly. I don’t know either. Neal doesn’t really tell me much detail about anything. However, I can confirm it’s not just the FW3A. The BLF Lantern seems to be having some difficulty sourcing LH351D emitters too.

mortuus wrote:
will it only be 2 emitters produced ?

There are no concrete answers yet. However, there is a high probabilty of more than two, in the future… because I think this light will probably be very popular if it is made well with no major flaws. Like, if the driver fit and reliability issue is fixed, it will probably sell very well.

The BLF A6 was very popular, and is still being produced and sold years later. It’s a practical general-purpose EDC light, and I think it has now sold more units than every other BLF project. It still gets recommended on forums because no one has yet made a better budget light to replace it. But I think the FW3A could finally replace the BLF A6.

If my guess is right, and if things go well, it may become a best-seller. So I’m guessing Lumintop will want to produce more versions of it in the future.

Tumbleweed48 wrote:
read the first page of this thread. It is what it is… all this criticism and back seat driving is getting on my nerves. Imagine how it feels for those actually putting in the effort.

This is true. However, I did ask for feedback about the emitter type. I want to know if people are okay with using SST-20, which is easier to get, or if they’d rather wait for LH351D even though it could take quite a while.

It’s not a quantitative poll though. Even if people voted 100% one way or the other, I can’t guarantee what will actually happen. It’s more to just get a general qualitative feel of what people prefer, so we can give a suggestion to the manufacturer.

teacher wrote:
joechina wrote:
For comparison: Firelight2 played around with SST20 4000K 95 CRI and compared it to XPL HI D4. Both are Emisar D4 lights. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1456366#comment-1456366

Wow, thanks for the link joechina; I had not seen that post by Firelight2 comparing the two emitters.

It tells me all ‘I’ need to know about the SST20 4000K 95 CRI. Crying

My favorite by far is XP-L HI. I think I’ve been fairly clear about that, but just in case… it’s the one I consider the best for this light. I would ideally only make the light with XP-L HI emitters, and offer it in 7D, 5D, 4D, 3D, and 1D tints. Or maybe 6D, 5A, 3D, 2A. Perhaps 7A, 5D, 4A, 2D. Something like that.

I’ve tried both LH351D and SST-20, but my experience with both so far has been “icky green tint”, even at high CRI. But maybe that would be better with the correct tint bin.

However, this project isn’t just for me. Or just for Fritz. We already have one. This project is for the people. And a lot of people really like LH351D or SST-20. So we’ll use those… or at least one of the two. If either one can be obtained in a rosy tint bin, I think it would turn out well.

cabfrank
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My favorite, and many other’s as well, is also XPL-HI. I think some people want to just try another emitter, or keep the cost slightly lower. I’m sure I’d be very happy with just two XPL versions.

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3D and 5D XPL HI are great options. Hank's been selling the 5D's for quite a while now, but who knows if they are still available in the supply chain.

 

The LH351D's are exciting for being high CRI and good lumens, while the SST-20's are exciting for super high CRI, decent lumens and better throw. The benefits though aren't overwhelming, but they also come with cons. So far I'm lik'n the 3500K SST-20's from Blue, but my prefs are on the warmer side of neutral anyway, and not sure if I'm susceptible to noticing the greens as much.

oweban
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Actually bugger it – I’ll put myself down for another (now total of 2) – one of each option Wink

f0xx
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I’m interested in one!

hugh
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I am interested in one, please.

tatasal
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Not exactly new news but the LH351D 4000Ks is currently out-of-stock from their usual China suppliers and with no definitely timetable for availability,

the SST20 4000k is being considered.

In the meantime, guys let’s enjoy our OTHER lights.

Beer
BlueSwordM
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Couldn’t they just order LH351D emitters outside of China?

Or do they not want that?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

tatasal
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Couldn’t they just order LH351D emitters outside of China?

Or do they not want that?

Obviously Lumintop (or any company for that matter) can but I don’t want to speculate on that.

BlueSwordM
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No problem.

Thanks a lot for the updates still!

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

tatasal
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BlueSwordM wrote:
No problem.

Thanks a lot for the updates still!

Thumbs Up Beer
funkychateau
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Firelight2 wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.


That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. Party
Actually, I modded lights with mixed emitters and the Carclo 10507 years ago. Before quads were common, the big thing everyone modded were triples and I converted numerous lights to them including the Sunwayman C20C, DQG Tiny III, and Convoy S2+.

When you mix emitter tints in these small triples the hotspot and most of the spill is a completely uniform mix with no artifacts that perfectly blends the emitters into a uniform new tint. You don’t even notice that different emitter tints were used unless you turn the light on in moonlight and look into the bezel, or shine it on a white wall from an inch away. Even from a foot away the beams blend almost perfectly. Not suprising since the hotspots are probably a foot wide and the emitters are maybe 1 cm separated.

The only artifacts the 10507 produces are a ring of flower petal like shapes at the edges outside the beam. These petals come from individual emitters so will be different colors and won’t blend. But the reality is they aren’t really noticeable except when looking at a white wall and spinning the light like a pinwheel in your hand. They also don’t look at all ugly.

But a light like this, aren’t all the emitters just tied in parallel, with nothing to balance the current? Mixed emitters would likely have varying forward voltages, which means that the lower Vf device would tend to hog the current.

ToyKeeper
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funkychateau wrote:
aren’t all the emitters just tied in parallel, with nothing to balance the current? Mixed emitters would likely have varying forward voltages, which means that the lower Vf device would tend to hog the current.

Yes… but usually this is not a problem when mixing the same type of emitter in different tints. They have the same Vf.

Flash Foto
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I’ll take two.
One of each led set.
One of each finish.
Preferably ‘clear’ anodized aluminum over raw.

Nice job Fritz & team !

"Let there be light" is an English translation of the Latin phrase fiat lux.

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Flash Foto wrote:
I’ll take two.
One of each led set.
One of each finish.
Preferably ‘clear’ anodized aluminum over raw.

Nice job Fritz & team !


There is only one finish. No clear/raw. Just the darker gray.
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Please put me down for 1. Thank You.

Lights, Lights, Lights

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I’d like one please. Thank you

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>>>LH351D may happen a few weeks after XP-L HI, due to lead time in sourcing parts.
>>>Anodizing is dark grey.
>>>Unanodized bare aluminum might happen later, but this isn’t determined yet. <<<

I am simply saying that I would like to show interest/buy a second FW3A in a finish of raw/clear aluminum if/when available.
I did this with the FireFlies E07. 1st a Grey anodized XP-L Hi 5000K at release.
Then got a clear aluminum (SST-20 4000K Hi CRI) when that finish option came out later.

"Let there be light" is an English translation of the Latin phrase fiat lux.

cabfrank
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Okay, but raw/clear aluminum is not part of this group buy.

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I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots.

Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up

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Bluzie wrote:
I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots. Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up


Thanks Bluzie and Andreas! It surely shows how the beam looks like, and i’m liking it Wink
BTW, that is with a 10508 Carclo, not the originally intended 10511 which will give a different beam with more hotspot, not so wide!
I do like it this way too, though as there are no beam artifacts Wink

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Bluzie wrote:
I send my Proto4 to my friend Andreas for beamshots. Beamshots from Andreas

Thank you Andreas for your great work. Thumbs Up


Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.

Maybe these pictures were taken under a bright light. (Probably, maybe it’s due to a certain temperature of light that adds a blue tint)

tatasal
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Perhaps the blueish tint is most probably the result of lighting (which affect the tint of the gray finish) when the photos were taken.

I have posted this photo elsewhere, and as an example of that effect, to show the change of gray to blueish, of the same light and time of photo-taking ( the right photo is the real gray finish of the Avaritia NA40SE) are the photos below:

More photos from this thread: HERE

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Certainly not being the best person to brag about his photographic skills,
but I think that every person involved has shown us a photo with a different color of ano.
And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

Is it possible to send one of the last specimen to a professional photographer, like DBCustom?
Or is it advisable to publish only photo’s of the FW3A in the company of well known lights?

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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tatasal wrote:
Perhaps the blueish tint is most probably the result of lighting (which affect the tint of the gray finish) when the photos were taken.

I have posted this photo elsewhere, and as an example of that effect, to show the change of gray to blueish, of the same light and time of photo-taking (the right photo is the real gray finish of the Avaritia NA40SE) are the photos below:

More photos from this thread: HERE

/\ .. THIS .. /\

Agreed, thanks tatasal. . Thumbs Up

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JasonWW
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Henk4U2 wrote:

And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

They don’t do this themselves. It’s outsourced, afaik.

The exact color doesn’t matter to me. They all look good. Party

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:

The exact color doesn’t matter to me. They all look good. Party
Amen!! . Thumbs Up . Beer Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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mortuus
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yes i agree with others all colors so far looks good.

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Regarding emitter options: I’d actually prefer SST-20 over LH351D in this light. In fact, I’ll be installing some regardless. I know that means my vote shouldn’t count for much, but at least consider my reasoning.

It’s true that the SST-20 are dimmer than either the LH351D or the XP-L HI, and almost certainly have worse tint than the XP-L HI. However, let’s not get bogged down with comparisons to the XP-L HI since that’s an excellent choice and is getting produced either way. And the SST-20 isn’t going to have significantly worse tint than the LH351D; they’re both known to have fairly green binning on average if you don’t shop carefully.

The LH351D is a much floodier emitter than theSST-20 (which throws more like the XP-L HI), and in an already-floody 20mm triple TIR it’s going to be wasteful. You’re going to need to run a higher brightness level to light up a particular distance away. The SST-20 is much less efficient in an integrating sphere, but especially in a ramping light you aren’t going to ramp up to the same number of lumens on both options and then complain about how much hotter the SST-20 is getting – you’re going to ramp to the same number of lux on a particular target, because that’s the brightness you can perceive. And the SST-20 will be using less power than the LH351D to get there, not more.

If you care mostly about tint and efficiency, the XP-L HI is still your choice. But if you’re concerned more with CRI (especially R9), in actual use the SST-20 is a great option. I’ve got them in my Emisar D4 and their tight beam makes the light far more useful than the numbers would suggest. And, for a back-to-back comparison, I pulled the SST-20 out of my D4S and installed LH351D’s, because in that larger head they were too focused.

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