Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.
Maybe these pictures were taken under a bright light. (Probably, maybe itās due to a certain temperature of light that adds a blue tint)
Perhaps the blueish tint is most probably the result of lighting (which affect the tint of the gray finish) when the photos were taken.
I have posted this photo elsewhere, and as an example of that effect, to show the change of gray to blueish, of the same light and time of photo-taking ( the right photo is the real gray finish of the Avaritia NA40SE) are the photos below:
More photos from this thread: HERE
Certainly not being the best person to brag about his photographic skills,
but I think that every person involved has shown us a photo with a different color of ano.
And I canāt imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.
Is it possible to send one of the last specimen to a professional photographer, like DBCustom?
Or is it advisable to publish only photoās of the FW3A in the company of well known lights?
/\ ā¦ THIS ā¦ /\
Agreed, thanks tatasal. . :+1:
They donāt do this themselves. Itās outsourced, afaik.
The exact color doesnāt matter to me. They all look good. :partying_face:
Amen!! . :+1: . 
yes i agree with others all colors so far looks good.
Regarding emitter options: Iād actually prefer SST-20 over LH351D in this light. In fact, Iāll be installing some regardless. I know that means my vote shouldnāt count for much, but at least consider my reasoning.
Itās true that the SST-20 are dimmer than either the LH351D or the XP-L HI, and almost certainly have worse tint than the XP-L HI. However, letās not get bogged down with comparisons to the XP-L HI since thatās an excellent choice and is getting produced either way. And the SST-20 isnāt going to have significantly worse tint than the LH351D; theyāre both known to have fairly green binning on average if you donāt shop carefully.
The LH351D is a much floodier emitter than theSST-20 (which throws more like the XP-L HI), and in an already-floody 20mm triple TIR itās going to be wasteful. Youāre going to need to run a higher brightness level to light up a particular distance away. The SST-20 is much less efficient in an integrating sphere, but especially in a ramping light you arenāt going to ramp up to the same number of lumens on both options and then complain about how much hotter the SST-20 is getting - youāre going to ramp to the same number of lux on a particular target, because thatās the brightness you can perceive. And the SST-20 will be using less power than the LH351D to get there, not more.
If you care mostly about tint and efficiency, the XP-L HI is still your choice. But if youāre concerned more with CRI (especially R9), in actual use the SST-20 is a great option. Iāve got them in my Emisar D4 and their tight beam makes the light far more useful than the numbers would suggest. And, for a back-to-back comparison, I pulled the SST-20 out of my D4S and installed LH351Dās, because in that larger head they were too focused.
I like the beamshots with the 10508 Carclo a lot. I will mostly use this light to light up thing close distance. So a very evenly floody beam would be nice.
So i hope they can get the LH351D. And i will most likely try to change the optic to a 10508 or something similar.
Hereās a calibrated photo of the FW3A. Used the X-rite colorchecker passport to generate a .dcp color correction profile for the Viltrox LED panel and Panasonic DMC-GM1 mirrorless SLR. Itās not as blue as the previous photo would suggest. Very slight bluish shift on the grey.
Thanks maukka, nice work & pictures!! . 
.
Of all the 50 shades of grey, this is a particular nice one!
Thanks maukka
+1 awesome stuff :+1:
That looks so smart. Canāt wait to get mine
Fantastic picture maukka. Looks classy! I really like the colour.
The anodising is grey, which behaves similar like white surfaces. Depending on the surrounding color you get a slight color on grey or white. E.g. wear a blue shirt it looks blue and with a green jacket greenish.
In a white fotobox it sould look grey.
Edit: Or you simply look at Maukkas picture 
Itās only slightly blue-tinted. If I take an average color value from each of three peopleās pictures, and normalize them, hereās what I found:
- R/G/B = 77.7% / 88.3% / 100.0% Bluzie
- R/G/B = 89.0% / 93.8% / 100.0% TK
- R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% Maukka
Maukkaās pictures are color-calibrated, so Iād trust those values the most. If I understand correctly, the others used auto white balance so their colors may be skewed.
Bluzie:
TK:
Maukka:
Please please please, yes I would like 1. Dark grey XPL-HI.
Iām changing my mind on emitter, Iāll want to go with an XP-L instead of the LH351D. Edited my original post.
It doesnāt matter. The list is just for how many total lights you want.