They can’t but I generally just turn off individual bulbs to suit my needs. One 800 lumen bulb in a room larger than a closet is quite dim, especially when ceiling bounced or diffused some.
Well, I have the 2700K 95 CRI 800 lumen varient on order. Still waiting for it. Looks very promising. For residential lighting, I find allot of manufacturers are out of spec. CCT with an upwards bias in color temperature. It’s great to see that isn’t the case here. The Feit bulbs are notorious for this, their 3000K are actually 3500K. GE is pretty bad about it to, around 3000K when they should be 2700K. My newer Philips 2700K A19’s are near 3100K, totally unacceptable. My newer Cree 2700K A19 also shows a 3050K color temperature. I see that blue-ification is the thing everywhere. It’s almost always out of specification CCT with a “cool” bias. There was always this thing that felt off with most LED A19 bulbs.
These bulbs sound like they’re full of win. I’m tempted to order some 4000K bulbs.
The only downside I see is that they’re not dimmable. I wonder what they’d do if I hooked them up to a PWM-based dimmer anyway.
Same thing here.
Will buy a pack of 6 for me, my SO, and will sell the remaining 3 to my friends.
My thoughts exactly, TK. It’s the closest thing to a 219B in a lightbulb form that I’ve seen.
Maukka, did you think about testing the 2400K bulb from Waveform? This opens up so many possibilities like their tape lights…
On another note, I got the CCT readings from some 2700K TCP bulbs in the vanity mirror in my bathroom, and they’re 3100K! Even my 3000K SST-20s are a warmer 3040K. Talk about out of spec.! There were some other people saying don’t mind the out of specification CCT, you’ll like it… eventually. No thanks to that. If I wanted 3000K, 3500K, and so on I would’ve bought it in the first place. Sloppy manufacturing processes should not be justified.
a few questions here;
what kind of IKEA lamps could these go into ?.
what Watt does it have to be over?.
800 Lumens is a lot so I take it it cant be used in a desk lamp ?.
what is best?..got a link for a good IKEA e27 lamp?. desk would be good!.
_
I got 5600k Daylight.
thanks.
These will fit any lamp with an E27 socket. Their low power means that there probably isn’t a light fixture that couldn’t handle them. I use one of these Tertial workbench lights.
kind thanks Maukka!.
Nice pictures and beam shots, thanks for the review! 
Beam shots? I didn’t notice any of those…
…
… oh, wait. There it is. It took me a moment, but I found it. The beam shot is just under “Measurements”, to the right of the table. It’s really easy to miss if you don’t look very closely, so I highlighted it:
Got my 2700K Waveform A19 bulb, and I am very pleased. My example is closer to 2800K, but a much better match for incandescent then my Philips A19 LED. Will probably be replacing the CFLs in my place with them.
I also got the 2400K filament light from them, but it exhibits some odd behavior. It flickers on startup, but then it seems to smooth out a perciptable amount once running for about half a minute. Do you guys have any idea what this could be?
A day late for a Halloween resurrection… but this was funny. Couldn’t go without giving Kudos 
Hope to see these easily available, it’s hard to find high CRI home lighting and it’s certainly still at a huge premium.
I’m waiting for some from V-tac to arrive that claim >95 so fingers crossed they are decent. Only 10w but cheap for what they claim to be.
Wow, those lights get HOT !
80°C, 100°C 
But no wonder when the only exposed metal is the E27 socket…
Bit of an update with my 2400K Waveform A19. I just screwed in a new duplicate lamp, and it appears that after about a year and half this light now has some serious lumen depreciation. I want to say, generously, that this lamp probably has around 3000 hours on it. The rated L70, 70% of initial output end of life, is officially rated for 25,000 hours. It looks like I have a warranty to claim.
I assume that a 30% drop would not even be noticeable. Is it so bad that it is noticeable? Or did you measure it?
I have many Lux24 bulbs that I use a lot, and I also have a few unused ones. Maybe I should measure them.
I have a similar warranty too. did about the same!.
I just measured two of my 2400K A19’s. I used my Extech lux-meter held vertically facing the lamps at 12 inches away. The depreciated lamp measured around 230 lux while the newer light measured 560 lux. The drop in output is noticeable.
40% from initial output, 60% is lost, for 3000 hrs.
Normal for one-dollar lamps, but A19’s cost much more.
I suspect this lamp won’t even make it to 10,000 hours, and I used it in an open fixture where heat shouldn’t have been a problem. I wanted to mention, even an L70 is a somewhat poor rating. An L70 means you loose nearly 1/3 the light’s output before it gets replaced. Metal halide had comparably poor lumen maintenance, but it didn’t last as long as LED before it had to be re-lamped. T8 fluorescent was actually a lot better then LED in this regards. It has a 90–95 lumen maintenance over its long lifespan. It’s possible to intelligently design LED fixtures that compensate for lumen depreciation by having the driver gradually push more power to the chips as they age and degrade, but most consumer lights don’t do this.