[Review] 77 Outdoors D25 Headlamp (18650)

I was actually glancing at those. I think the diameter will be fine with a little sanding, but I’m concerned with the height. I’m curious to see what comes of them. Let us know (in a month or so!)

Wellp, with TIRs in there, I ain’t gonna need the front glass, so that’s at least a mm gone. I figure it should fit as-is for the most part.

Worst case, lap the living Hell out of the back of the replacement mcpcbs.

D25 is not as good for modding as D10: non standard, hard to remove led plate; non standard lenses, plastic bezel and you have to buy 2x leds and lenses instead off 1 like in D10. In my practical use D10 is getting to hot already on 1A, witch is no good , because, it overheats lithium battery! I’m pretty sure, D25 with 2 leds will overheat even faster so. D10 & D25 have cooling ribs inside battery tube :person_facepalming:

Good review mate!

My story i bought one of these a few months ago and i ordered the 2 XML option of course more LEDs = more power lol. They sent the single LED option of course lol. So i argued with Aliexpress and i got $11 AUD back from the $20 AUD i spent probably the best $9 AUD light ever lol.

Its built well and the stock driver is on the better side for a headlamp and stock it is plenty bright for a headlamp i wanted your edition the double LED to make one side red and one normal output for fishing but oh well. Ill probably buy another i think.

Now i lost it i don’t know where and how but its gone i think my niece moved when she was playing with my lights. I am planning when or if i find it to put a new driver in it with the 3v XHP50.2. Probably need to hire Liam Neeson to find it lol.

It opens clockwise…

wut? Back in post #23 it says CCW - could there be 2 types?

I have 2 D10, date on boxes 2018-11-19 and 2018-12-01 , both opens clockwise, should be same on D25, no? Manufacturer definitely is the same.

Ohh, I got the dual equivalent, no name brand.

Just ordered the single version: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/XM-L2-Mini-Head-Lamp-Outdoor-White-Light-Headlamp-Fishing-Head-light-USB-Charge-Waterproof-Headlight/32966277532.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6f754c4dPWhv8x

For $12, can't go wrong.

Unscrewed mine and find out that copper ring on 17mm driver is almost broke off. :person_facepalming: I need another solution and it will be not cheap one, because there is no onesided programmable drivers on the market… there is no cheap dedicated and efficient, low current (1-1.5A), drivers for L shaped headlamps like H03 or H30 :frowning:

Boy, wish I could get my open and see - I do lots of OSHPark ATtiny85 based one sided drivers, accept for the batt+ contact area of course.

Man… Just turn hard clockwise and don’t mind scratches…

Yea, that's the plan for this eve - 10 hrs or so from now... I'll clamp it up and use my newly tweaked spanner tool.

This is the kind of tool I have/used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DSLR-Lens-Spanner-Wrench-Opening-Tool-Stainless-Steel-For-Camera-Repair-open-Tools-Kit/32750613438.html

This worked for me
!!

I got a set of these

from Amazon a ways back, but they’re now like twice the price.

Goggle “tekton snap ring pliers”.

Set of 4: all 4 combos of bent/straight, spring-open/spring-closed.

As I laid in bed trying to sleep last night, I realized that I lied :frowning: I usually talk about this in terms of normal vs reverse threaded. These are reverse threaded… so they unscrew going clockwise :person_facepalming:

I agree, I think I would have liked the D10 better due to increased mod-ability. Those internal “cooling ribs” are actually channels for the LED wires to run through without interfering with the battery. I doubt they’re intended for cooling, but I’ve been known to be wrong on occasion. :smiley:

No prob. I tried reversed early on, but I probably already had tightened it up, so didn't try hard enough.

Edit: took all of 2 secs to loosen the end cap now - CW, reverse, etc. .

So I see the driver and the issues - tight space, plastic ring it fits in, switch on the back side.

Looked carefully at it - probable a PIC, SOIC-8, Vcc on pin #1, switch on pin #2, FETs on pin #4, and GRND on pin #8. And that seems to be it. The FETs are two in parallel, 3 pins, output goes thru a bank of parallel current limiting resistors.

So, 4 wires, that's all. I'm thinking of removing the MCU, using an 85 in it's place and hand wiring up the 4 pins needed. Should be enough spare room on the driver. Dunno how well it will work. I'll probably replace the 'D1' diode they have with a 4.7 ohm resistor which the 85 typically needs.

These are the tools I used/tried:

It lives in pieces!

The driver:

The (my fault) damage:

I'll sand down the end cap to bare - should mostly hide the scratches, not too concerned about them - this light will get used.

NarsilM has one channel support, so should work - might jumper the resistor bank though for more power, or leave as is since normally I don't need power so the lower the max amps, the more efficient it should be.

This pic datasheet on page 4 shows the pins where Vcc and Vss are: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/PIC16(L)F1831318323

This driver is total crap . Zero stabilization , output depends on voltage: 4.2v- 2A, but on 3.8v output already dropped to 1,4A. And it overheating fast and dropping output even more to 1A and keeps dropping …to 0,7A! :person_facepalming: Its real 10$ hi tech :smiley: I never stop wondering why Chinese engineers cant use few AMC7135…

Hhmm - the current limiting resistors can't help but maybe those parallel FET's are pretty bad then. Maybe the cost issue of the FET's because our good FET's are not cheap even in China, in fact they are almost all counterfeit there because of the high cost.

They probably have a cost cap for the driver, probably about $1 - $1.50

I may have to re-plan this - try to get a stock OSHPark driver in there. 7135's would be great - don't need hi power, better regulation, but not sure.

@Tom E, that’s inspirational. More details with progress, please.

Well… thermal control is working, but appears to be a bit conservative. The body stayed at 45°C (113°F) throughout the run. I think I need to kick that up a notch and hopefully avoid the initial big drop. I will say that when I ran this test with the stock D25, it got hot! I need to find the middle ground. Thoughts on an ideal temp?