I also got my final revision 3.2 also launched now,
too bad I got made 120 boards here where the 10 pin header wont work and solder connection markings do not fit if want flash driver from bottom side
the pins are mirrored because I made an mistake looking in my program on drivers bottom which auto mirrors
Order in 2OZ for 0.8mm board thickness from Oshpark!
HarleyQuin and Lexel, do you have pinout and pcb layout recommendation for the programming pin connector? I think it make sense to standardize something for easy use on many drivers types.
the only one for pinout and pad pattern I see so far is loneoceans pogoprog here: http://www.loneoceans.com/labs/pogoprog/ but it look like everyone using slightly different spacing and pinout?
I’ll give 6 pads a shot, though. Lexel, are all v3.2 fixed (not mirrored)? Or was the mirroring only on the 10-pin connector? I had trouble flashing this board (my first attempt at using your pgm key), but I think it was probably my driver design at fault.
Mostly, I just want this to be a thing… like, yesterday. And I hope we can get someone to manufacture keys and sell a flashing kit. It looks like a huge upgrade to how we’ve been doing things, and it could enable the use of smaller and fancier MCUs.
Quoting this to say I’m still hoping somebody does a complete flashing kit that includes all the cables, plugs, clamps, etc. and this key. Convenience is a strong selling point for me. I haven’t started flashing yet for various reasons. Having a complete kit to buy from one place would knock out a couple of those reasons.
EDIT: I’d still want the kit to include the usual programming clip because I already own some drivers that don’t have pogo pin programming on-board.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
If I want the key to be used on the bottom of the driver, do I apply the via pattern to the bottom of the driver or to the top of the driver? I want to get the mirror issues right the first time lol.
I assume it should be applied to the bottom of the driver since not all the patterns use vias?
Different topic… I seem to be having trouble with (at least some of) my pogo pins. They don’t seem to be making full electrical connection unless I completely depress the pins and the sleeve itself makes contact with the pads. Is this normal? Or should I try some other pins? It makes trying to flash a chip extremely aggravating. I think I tried repositioning this stupid thing like 25 times last night before getting a good connection.
Different topic… I seem to be having trouble with (at least some of) my pogo pins. They don’t seem to be making full electrical connection unless I completely depress the pins and the sleeve itself makes contact with the pads. Is this normal? Or should I try some other pins? It makes trying to flash a chip extremely aggravating. I think I tried repositioning this stupid thing like 25 times last night before getting a good connection.
Thanks, since it does not look like I will be able to test it before it goes into production I wanted to double check.
You could try soaking them in Alcohol and pressing them in completely while soaking to work any gunk out of them.
I would also try putting a bit of downward/sideways pressure on them if possible to try to ensure that the internal pin makes contact with the sleeve.
That is all I can think of.
With the normal SOIC clip, I have found spraying some Alcohol on the clip and then flashing while the clip is still wet nets me an almost 100% success rate when I am having trouble flashing a mcu. Of course I try cleaning the MCU with Alcohol first but this seems to work when that fails almost every time unless the MCU is dead.
Yeah, I was thinking about doing a good cleaning. They seem like the should be foolproof… I’m sure it’s gotta be something simple and stupid (like dirty contacts)
Edit: it’s a tiny difference, but I see I used 0.35mm drills instead of 0.4mm. Perhaps the difference in contact area isn’t helping either.
I’ll give 6 pads a shot, though. Lexel, are all v3.2 fixed (not mirrored)? Or was the mirroring only on the 10-pin connector? I had trouble flashing this board (my first attempt at using your pgm key), but I think it was probably my driver design at fault.
vs 3.2 is not mirrored all solder spots and the 10 pin header should work
it has been proven that using viases is more reliable than just pads, so if you can put viases on the driver do it
usually gold plating helps or one side soft like solder that was already cleaned from flux residue
I also got my final revision 3.2 also launched now,
too bad I got made 120 boards here where the 10 pin header wont work and solder connection markings do not fit if want flash driver from bottom side
the pins are mirrored because I made an mistake looking in my program on drivers bottom which auto mirrors
Order in 2OZ for 0.8mm board thickness from Oshpark!
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/o1pUPNqt
I got some that cant use the header as they were produced mirrored
applying solder paste one side
soldering pins to it and applying thermal glue for 2. side reflow
Both sides soldered, fine alignment of the pind with soldering iron carefully after that picture
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Are you selling the assembled keys?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yes, I have one.
But not jet soldered the cable on it.
Pogo-Pins are ready applied by lexel.
I see, how much for an assembled key shipped to the US?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
for the mirrored key its 3.5$ shipped
I got ones that now also fit the socket 1:1 but need to assemble a few then running out of pogo pins
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
So the new ones can just plug right into the usbasp correct? I will wait for those then I will most likely buy 2 to play with.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
HarleyQuin and Lexel, do you have pinout and pcb layout recommendation for the programming pin connector? I think it make sense to standardize something for easy use on many drivers types.
the only one for pinout and pad pattern I see so far is loneoceans pogoprog here: http://www.loneoceans.com/labs/pogoprog/ but it look like everyone using slightly different spacing and pinout?
Yes, a standard pinout and via pattern would be good.
Lexel, do you have a diptrace pattern for the via pattern you use? Thinking about adding this to the GT4 driver.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Diptrace Libary with different variants of them
http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/programming.lib
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Eh, 6 pads is so overrated… 3 is more my style

I’ll give 6 pads a shot, though. Lexel, are all v3.2 fixed (not mirrored)? Or was the mirroring only on the 10-pin connector? I had trouble flashing this board (my first attempt at using your pgm key), but I think it was probably my driver design at fault.

Quoting this to say I’m still hoping somebody does a complete flashing kit that includes all the cables, plugs, clamps, etc. and this key. Convenience is a strong selling point for me. I haven’t started flashing yet for various reasons. Having a complete kit to buy from one place would knock out a couple of those reasons.
EDIT: I’d still want the kit to include the usual programming clip because I already own some drivers that don’t have pogo pin programming on-board.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
If I want the key to be used on the bottom of the driver, do I apply the via pattern to the bottom of the driver or to the top of the driver? I want to get the mirror issues right the first time lol.
I assume it should be applied to the bottom of the driver since not all the patterns use vias?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
This is how the pinout looks like on the bottom side of the driver, just want to make sure it is correct since I don’t have a key to test it with:
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
In looking at my assembled key from a couple posts above, this looks right to me.
Different topic… I seem to be having trouble with (at least some of) my pogo pins. They don’t seem to be making full electrical connection unless I completely depress the pins and the sleeve itself makes contact with the pads. Is this normal? Or should I try some other pins? It makes trying to flash a chip extremely aggravating. I think I tried repositioning this stupid thing like 25 times last night before getting a good connection.
Thanks, since it does not look like I will be able to test it before it goes into production I wanted to double check.
You could try soaking them in Alcohol and pressing them in completely while soaking to work any gunk out of them.
I would also try putting a bit of downward/sideways pressure on them if possible to try to ensure that the internal pin makes contact with the sleeve.That is all I can think of.
With the normal SOIC clip, I have found spraying some Alcohol on the clip and then flashing while the clip is still wet nets me an almost 100% success rate when I am having trouble flashing a mcu. Of course I try cleaning the MCU with Alcohol first but this seems to work when that fails almost every time unless the MCU is dead.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yeah, I was thinking about doing a good cleaning. They seem like the should be foolproof… I’m sure it’s gotta be something simple and stupid (like dirty contacts)
Edit: it’s a tiny difference, but I see I used 0.35mm drills instead of 0.4mm. Perhaps the difference in contact area isn’t helping either.
vs 3.2 is not mirrored all solder spots and the 10 pin header should work
it has been proven that using viases is more reliable than just pads, so if you can put viases on the driver do it
usually gold plating helps or one side soft like solder that was already cleaned from flux residue
I guess that also some Pogo Pins may be not good
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Have you got the new batch of keys put together yet? I would like to order a few so I can test it out when they are ready.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I have the new boards and stencils here
also like 30 or so Pogo pins left
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Ok, I want to order 2 of them when you have them assembled let me know. Thanks.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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