What DB Custom said, essentially. I found the XPL 3Ds to have an off-white tint with a bit of green mixed in and a rather unpleasant tint shift in lower outputs. The Samsungs on the other hand produce an extremely clean, pure white beam at all outputs from what I can tell, and are also high CRI which adds to the noticeable difference.
Same thoughts about the XP-L HD 3D.
Ohh, you used the 90 CRI 5000K, not the 70 CRI. I have the 70 CRI's in 5000K, used one so far, and looks good, but haven't spent much time with it, or comparing it.
everything I have tried the 80 or 90CRI ones in (probably 10 lights across 3-4 different LEDs) produces a good even beam which is the only knock on the XP-L 3D is that it shifts throughout the beam some.
a lot of the LH351D are above BBL so could have some green but at least it’s generally even throughout the beam unlike the some of the XP cree emitters that might have a great hot spot but the corona and spill are noticeably different tint.
This evening I put 4 of those 5000K 90CRI LH351D leds (by coincidence another mod with these is described above (nice Q8 DarkShot!) from that Arrow deal into my Amutorch AT40. I know that maukka tested these leds to be somewhat green in a reflector light, so in AT40 they may perform a bit nicer.
The AT40 is basically a mule light with just a weak lens to give the light some direction, so it makes use of the forward directed light from the leds, in contrast with a reflector light where the spot is formed by light that comes sideways out of the led. In all leds that I measured sofar the forwarded light is the rosiest part, and indeed the broad flood that now comes out of the AT40 is under the BBL (even on lowest mode I get 5200K duv –0.0056). The CRI is around 95 in all modes with a R9 around 80. Output on highest setting is 730 lumen.
A nice improvement over the 74CRI 219C leds that the light had stock 
Cheers djozz, solid work too!
Disassembled and flashed Anduril to my D4. Royal PITA to get it apart, ended up destroying two resistors in removing the driver. Fortunately I had some SMD resistors close to the value of the two ruined so they were replaced.
Totally worth the effort though, Anduril is fantastic.
Last Friday I received some goodies from Led4Power and finally ended a mod I started in November! 
I moded the Jaxman E3 into a triple, and changed the driver and LED of the Convoy T2.
CONVOY T2
No pics from the mod on the Convoy T2 , only some beamshots!
I must mention that if someone wants to mod this light, the MCPCB must be around 14mm. There is a ring that protrudes all around the shelf, and that hinders 16mm MCPCBs from fitting correctly.
Also, as the original flashlight uses a thin PCB plate (aluminum), a thicker one as those from Led4Power, will probably raise the reflector and the lens and will leave a small gap when screwing in the bezel of the flashlight. I put an o-ring in that gap 
This said, I reflowed a Luveon V 4000K in a old “shaved-to-14mm” Led4Power MCPCB. I used a 4-6A LD-A4 driver also from Led4Power, with a spring cut to half to make the battery fit.
I also put another type of clip borrowed from the Amutorch S3 (stainless steel), and I “flamed” the clip with a small lighter/torch (sorry, can’t remember the proper expression for this process 
).
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JAXMAN E3
I started this mod in November. Back then I started with a 16mm copper rod to make the pill; I cut it by hand and filed to make it for the flashlight. It was bought in a local store.
I used a triple MCPCB board with Cool White XP-G2 S4-1A (from Jaxman) and a Carclo 10507 from Led4Power. Both the MCPCB and the Carclo had to be shaved / filed / sanded to fit the head and the bezel correctly. In this process, I slightly damaged the optic, so sanded it a bit, not uniformly. It works, though
I drilled a hole in the shelf of the flashlight to make the wires (20AWG) fit. The driver is a 7-9A LD-A4 from Led4Power.
Around the pill I used a spacer bought some time ago in KD store from AliExpress. It helps a lot holding the pill in the correct place and it was perfect for this.
The pocket clip is a spare one from Nitefox ES10K, and I also “flamed” it with a small torch/lighter. Did the same with the bezel.
The threads form the T2 and the E3 are equal, so the parts are interchangeable. I wish the E3 had a round battery tube so that the clip was correctly aligned. I am still thinking about the possibility to add something between the tube and the tail cap of the E3, to make it align correctly!
The night beamshots are on Max output, with and EFEST IMR 14500 650mAh.
Convoy T2 (Luxeon V 4000K, OP reflector, 4-6A driver) >>> Jaxman E3 (3 x XP-G2 S4-1A, moded Carclo 10507, 7-9A driver)
Oh, thats no good mcpcb-design! I would change it, that you have + at the inside and not at the outside of the mcpcb. That would be safer. Remember the first Astrolux S41 flashlights, they had a similar design and some problems with shortcuits.
Oh, no worries, that is not the only thing that is designed badly on this light :party: The beam would improve drastically if the leds were placed closer together, I do not see one reason why that would not have been possible. It would even allow for a slimmer head. And I frosted the inside of the lens with fine sand paper now, that removed a ton of beam artifacts. I’m now at 650 lumen OTF at 2.94 A current, so total efficiency of close to 60 lm/W which is pretty ok for a 95CRI on top of BBL flooder.
Nice work! But I like warm leds.
Nice chunk of copper you got there, good job!
Thanks Mike 
It gave some work to make it fit well (specially in height), but ended up working!
BTW, I found out that working with copper is harder than working with brass.
Drilling and filing brass in another similar mod gave me less work
Thanks again :+1:
They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter 
Yep, cold pressed UV (Über Virgin).
Yeah, “extremely” dense form then I wouldn’t like to heat that kind of butter, the teeth would go “nuts” 
Working on with a hacksaw, some thin drills and a file was a fine challenge!
Wish I had better tools and I would certainly do some more stuff with thicker rods! (like a pill for my Amutorch VG10, to make it a quad :smiling_imp: )
Add in that slim little percentage of Tellurium to the Copper and once it again it machines like brass. Well worth it if you ask me…
On another note, but some machining still involved… I managed to trade my son a newer light for his Jacob A60 then coaxed 227.5Kcd from the old pencil beam thrower.
Good job on the A60 Dale. I still take its stock 55 kcd (with XR-E led) as my reference point for throwers that I make, to feel good about how much flashlights have improved
What led does it have now?
I machined the emitter shelf to accept a 20mm Noctigon with a White Flat. Using an FET+1 A6 style (that I built) and limiting power through cell choice, currently running a Panasonic PF that gives 6.01A at 4.19V freshly charged. Yeah yeah, I know, I have an LED4Power LD-A4 on the way that I will set to a little lower current to optimize the emitter so improper cell choice won’t kill it should I forget (and I will!).
When the LD-A4 arrives I plan to make a copper “retaining ring” that will hold the smaller 17mm driver, just replace the very thick aluminum retaining ring with one made from copper that has a shelf for the driver then solder the driver in after installing. (or if I take a notion I’ll make a retaining ring to fit within the retaining ring to hold the driver. Depends on the variables…
Convoy S2+ Triple XP-E Photo Red 670nm, Carclo 10508 - 8x7135 Convoy driver (Biscotti) - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw.
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Nitecore TIP CRI Nichia 219B - SD - ES Sw - Potted - 290lm.
Installed a green locator LED, boosted output slightly, fully potted internals and some GITD on the switches.
Turbo - 220lm to 290lm
High - 92lm to 160lm
Med - 23lm to 40 lm
Low - 1lm - 1lm
CRX, is that a noctigon on the triple? Or did you put something red thing below the lens! Nice effect 