Takes longer to heat up, can sustain higher output
Newer UI with more features
Has aux LEDs
Tail magnet available
The LED choice also affects how floody or throwy it is… but pretty much anything in a D4 will be pretty floody, and almost anything in a D4S will be somewhat throwy. A D4 with the floody optic isn’t quite as floody as a mule (bare emitter with no reflector), but it’s close. So for a flooder I’d suggest picking an emitter mostly based on other factors, like color temperature, tint, heat, and efficiency.
Your question is a bit of a can of worms to answer because I think there are a few basics that need to be addressed first. I’ll let other people do that, but I just wanted to point out that both the D4 and D4S are very, very much hotrod flashlights. People talk about them because they are cool designs and made well, not necessarily because they are the best at “being a flashlight,” something that means different things to different people. Motorcycle enthusiasts talk a lot about fast Ducattis and big, loud Harleys — not so much about their mid size, metric cruisers that they actually own and ride every day. I can use my D4 to start fires (dark pieces of paper placed right in front of the lens), to illuminate entire fields at night or to output a variable brightness just bright enough for what I need, including so dim that my eyes can preserve their night vision. Notice how I mentioned the two least practical uses first? It’s just that kind of flashlight, they both are. If I use a D4 for more than 20-30 seconds on max brightness, it becomes too hot to hold bare-handed and the temperature regulator ramps the output way down to about 15% brightness, which is extremely dim by comparison. The D4S is different mainly in that the optic gives it more throw and less flood (but it’s still plenty floody outdoors), and it can go for longer on max brightness before becoming too hot to hold or too dim to be useful, but it does eventually become too hot to hold barehanded and gets considerably dimmer if left on max for several minutes.
1) D4 has more flood
2) Each emitter has different characteristics in terms of throwiness, the perceived tint of white light and how “true to life” it renders colors (i.e., the CRI).
3) Totally up to you.
^ Thanks Koziy.I appreciate the input. This will be more of a hobby light. Everyone is raving about it so I figured I’d check it out. All the different variations seem interesting. I have a Fenix P35 that works as a good all around light. I’m actually researching the proper battery maintenance as well. Kind if worried about that too.
I only own one right now, but that will change ( Weapon lights from Surefire and Elzetta are needed first.) I got the D4 in XPL-HI V3 5000K and it is very nice. I got a couple Samsung 30Q’s for it so I can keep a spare in my pocket. You should be happy with it when you receive it.
Good news. Looking forward to it. Just ordered last night.
I have a question….I’m a little paranoid. There is mention that this light gets really hot on turbo (of course I’ll only be running it at low levels most of the time). Any dangers to the Li-On cell from the heat? I hear these things can explode if too much heat is nearby. I ordered a few 30Qs’ from illumn.com
yes the light will heat up quicker then u can count to 10, but since it cant manage highest before stepdown for very long or u turnoff its not an issue really since the batteries wont have time to heat up crazy high anyways. its a good handwarmer in winter tho.
no need to be paranoid, just treat the light with respect and u will be fine.
To the OP: The Emisar D4 is a great choice. You’ll have a lot of fun with it. It’s my favorite flashlight.
It’s the ultimate “pocket rocket” with enormous output in a package small enough to everyday-carry in your pocket.
Maximum power on the D4 is really a burst turbo mode. It’s great having a light that can produce 4,000 lumens or more, but recognize that if you need any kind of sustained output, you’re probably going to get around 500 lumens max. The D4’s heatsinking isn’t sufficient to maintain more than that.
Note: A D4 with 18650 tube in your pocket does carry the risk of accidental activation. The button protrudes slightly and if it accidentally depresses the light will ramp up to turbo and stay there. This won’t damage the light at all as the temp sensor in the driver will rapidly ramp output down before any internal damage occurs. However, this may not be in time to prevent damage to your pants. I had a D4 burn through the pockets in a couple pairs of pants due to accidental activation in this way. To prevent this from happening I suggest locking out the light by slightly unscrewing the tailcap when not in use.
If you get comfortable modifying flashlights it is possible to modify the D4 to greatly reduce the risk of accidental activation making tailcap lockout unnecessary.
As mentioned your 30Q’s will be fine. I have run mine until it is too hot to hold, and then removed the cell. It is not too warm. The thick walls of this light pulls the heat rather well into the body and your hand will melt long before your cell explodes.
Now that I think of it, last time I was on his site. Had to order one of those Amutorch AT40s. I don’t remember seeing them. Well that’s a bummer. I always seem to get things pretty quick from Neals. Though I have yet to get a shipping confirmation on the AT40. Guess it would help if I actually checked my email more than once every few weeks.