【convoy】H4 and B35AM options are updated

Commercial Sellers' Spot
474

The axes of the CIE 1960 colorspace are labeled “u” and “v”. Duv is “delta uv”, or the distance between two coordinates. As used in maukka’s reports, it’s the distance from the blackbody line at the correlated color temperature of the light to the actual color coordinate of the light, or more simply, how red or green the light is.

More than +/- 0.005 is a very large Duv - very obviously red or green, easily noticed even without comparison to another light source. A positive Duv is green, and a negative Duv is red. +0.0075 as seen with this C8/219C sample is extremely green such that the color of everything illuminated with it will appear distorted despite the high CRI.

Almost nobody here likes light that is very green. Some people like light that is noticeably red (and seek out rare LEDs like the Nichia 219B sw45k to get it), but almost everyone will be happy with light that is purely white (Duv less than +/- 0.001).

475

I hate this UI. I find it difficult to understand why anybody would design a UI like this.

The biggest problem is that changing modes too quickly results in strobe. Accidental strobe is no fun at all, especially if you’re trying to switch from medium to low, so you click the button again quickly after you get high. The combination of a single click to change modes and a double-click as a shortcut to anything is bad, but especially bad if it’s strobe.

Long-press for off also tends to confuse people. If I had a light to someone without giving instructions, they will expect a single press of the button to turn it on, and another press to turn it off. There’s a reason Thrunite, Olight, Acebeam, Emisar, Haikelite, and the popular open source firmwares for e-switches (Narsil and Anduril) all have roughly the same behavior:

  • Single-click: on/off
  • Long-press from off: lowest mode
  • Long-press from on: change brightness
  • Double-click: highest mode

Simon, I imagine you’re buying drivers with this firmware already on them, but do you have any way to get a different user interface on them? This one is very bad.

476

Do i understand it right. The sideswitch on the H1 has no led behind it?
Why not?
To make the reflector cavity compatible to use TIR optics sound like a very good idea!
This would allow people to change it from throw to flood like they prefer.
And the use of a TIR would allow me to mod the H1 with a TIR backlight like i did with my H03.

477

the manufacturer is trying the 85V now ,and when it’s updated ,
i will ask he to print V3.0 on the PCB board

478

Thanks for your explanation.
i will launch H2 H3 H4… in the future,
You made me understand the needs of the users. In terms of weight, I will design a headlight that is more suitable for the user.

479

Clear, thanks for your explanation. :+1:

480

Thanks for your suggestion.

I’ve told this to driver manufacturer.
The firmware will be changed later.

481

The DUV is super high, which means this emitter will look very green :confounded: . Hopefully Simon can source some hi cri emitters with low DUV like SST-20 with FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 tint bins or Oslon Squares with below the BBL tints.

482

You can buy the headlamp strap for $1-$2 sometimes they call it “headband”.

483

yes, i understand,in short , i should order redish LED

484

Thank you !!!
I’m so happy to read this that i’m going to cry.

485

Probably, most people will be happy with emitters spot on black body line (duv +0.001 to –0.001). I think, reddishness (or rather rosiness) to duv –0.003 is acceptable (and helpful with recognizing blue and red details), below that I consider it a bit of special use.

In practice, while SST-20 LEDs are promised to be on black body line with tints FA2, FA3, FD2, FD3, they are a bit more yellowish, when used on lower currents. This is why SKV89 recommended to source the tints above (FA1, FA4…), because they can hit the black body line better (especially, when not just bare led is measured, but optics as well).

In practice, I found the FB4 tint of SST-20 very appealing for outside use, if it is driven around 2A, because the tint changes, so it is noticeably rosier, than if multiple same LEDs were driven at a much lower current each.

It is very difficult to source Nichia 219C with proper duv values, and this is more visible for emitters in the 2700K-4000K CCT range. But for me, even a slightly greenish (duv up to +0.003) 219C is fine, if they are in the 5000K-5700K CCT range.

To cover the ‘cool white’ range of CCTs with high CRI emitters, do you consider to get Samsung LH351D emitters (they have 90 CRI for both 5000K and 6000K CCT)?
Those emitters are a bit less throwy, than 219C, but overall, they have somewhat more output (also, it is safe to drive them far past 4A with good heatsinking) - and maybe a bit less green.

486

LH351D in 5000k with 90CRI is very nice - popped some in a Wowtac A2S and an Olight S Mini. Unsure about the lumen drop from the original emitters, but the A2S on turbo can still spit out a lot of light.

487

I use them in a lot of lights.
Emisar D4, Astrolux S43, Lumintop GT mini. Convoy S2+, Olight S10R, Convoy M1
With a fet driver it made 1550 lumens.

488

Ooft! Nice. I’ve still got two spare (and one 16mm board that I have to flow), so I should probably do something nice with it.

489

I personally like very low duv for warm white emitters after tons of comparisons. For example, I have a Tiara Pro with 4x E21A consisting of 2x2000k and 2x3000k for a 2500k mixed cct and a 4x E21A consisting of 1x2000k and 3x3000k for a 2750k mixed tint. However, the 2750k looks much warmer than the 2500k and everyone I asked thinks the same. The reason is because the 2500k has a very negative duv (rosy tint), whereas the 2750k is less rosy. I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter on the 2500k whereas on the 2750k, whites appear more yellowish tinted. But even the 2750k is probably at least -.003 duv since it is rosier than all of my SST-20 3000k. I’m guessing the 2500k is about –0.006 duv. The tint on the 2500k is absolutely gorgeous and pleasing to look at and use for ambient lighting.

490

Yes, 2700K and under that, it is another thing :smiley:

491

To be clear, I’m not saying Convoy should use direct-drive FET drivers. They’re probably a bit overpowered for most of Simon’s customers. But a “moonlight special” 7+1 driver would be nice. Or something with similar capabilities.

492

The Convoy H1 with 1.400mA would be just fine for the XP-E2 photo red (660nm), so a nice alternative to Zebralight’s H502pr.

493

Although high efficiency buck/boost driver would be ideal, I really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.