What did you mod today?

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Mike C
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MascaratumB wrote:
I started this mod in November. Back then I started with a 16mm copper rod to make the pill; I cut it by hand and filed to make it for the flashlight. It was bought in a local store.

Nice chunk of copper you got there, good job!
MascaratumB
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Mike C wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
I started this mod in November. Back then I started with a 16mm copper rod to make the pill; I cut it by hand and filed to make it for the flashlight. It was bought in a local store.
Nice chunk of copper you got there, good job!

Thanks Mike Wink
It gave some work to make it fit well (specially in height), but ended up working!
BTW, I found out that working with copper is harder than working with brass.
Drilling and filing brass in another similar mod gave me less work Silly

Thanks again Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

djozz
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They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter Flat Stare

Henk4U2
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djozz wrote:
They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter Flat Stare

Yep, cold pressed UV (Über Virgin).

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

MascaratumB
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djozz wrote:
They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter Flat Stare

Yeah, “extremely” dense form then Silly I wouldn’t like to heat that kind of butter, the teeth would go “nuts” Big Smile
Working on with a hacksaw, some thin drills and a file was a fine challenge!
Wish I had better tools and I would certainly do some more stuff with thicker rods! (like a pill for my Amutorch VG10, to make it a quad Evil )

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

DB Custom
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Add in that slim little percentage of Tellurium to the Copper and once it again it machines like brass. Well worth it if you ask me…

On another note, but some machining still involved… I managed to trade my son a newer light for his Jacob A60 then coaxed 227.5Kcd from the old pencil beam thrower. Big Smile

djozz
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Good job on the A60 Dale. I still take its stock 55 kcd (with XR-E led) as my reference point for throwers that I make, to feel good about how much flashlights have improved Smile
What led does it have now?

DB Custom
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I machined the emitter shelf to accept a 20mm Noctigon with a White Flat. Using an FET+1 A6 style (that I built) and limiting power through cell choice, currently running a Panasonic PF that gives 6.01A at 4.19V freshly charged. Yeah yeah, I know, I have an LED4Power LD-A4 on the way that I will set to a little lower current to optimize the emitter so improper cell choice won’t kill it should I forget (and I will!).

When the LD-A4 arrives I plan to make a copper “retaining ring” that will hold the smaller 17mm driver, just replace the very thick aluminum retaining ring with one made from copper that has a shelf for the driver then solder the driver in after installing. Wink (or if I take a notion I’ll make a retaining ring to fit within the retaining ring to hold the driver. Depends on the variables…

CRX
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Convoy S2+ Triple XP-E Photo Red 670nm, Carclo 10508 - 8x7135 Convoy driver (Biscotti) - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw.Convoy S2+ XP-E Red 670nm - 8x7135 - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw..

.

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Nitecore TIP CRI Nichia 219B - SD - ES Sw - Potted - 290lm.

Installed a green locator LED, boosted output slightly, fully potted internals and some GITD on the switches.

Turbo - 220lm to 290lm
High -  92lm to 160lm
Med -  23lm to 40 lm
Low - 1lm - 1lm

Nitecore TIP CRI Nichia 219B - SD - ES Sw - Potted - 290lm.

 

MascaratumB
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CRX, is that a noctigon on the triple? Or did you put something red thing below the lens! Nice effect Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

CRX
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It is a Noctigon MCPCB.

I usually colour the bottom of the three support posts with black but did red this time as I thought it went better.

CRX
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I modified the CRX Rotary with a 3K carbon fibre jacket and swapped the XP-L HD 3D emitter for an XP-L HI 3A 5000K as I found the XP-L HD 3D tint to be a little too green on the lower modes so now it's a much nicer creamy white to my eyes.

CRX Rotary CF - XPL-HI v2 3A 5000K - RSD - 18350 - Rotary Lighted Tail Sw - 1330lm.Copper, Titanium & Carbon Fibre construction
Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K emitter
GITD O-ring & LED surround
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
19mm x 8mm solid copper heatsink
20mm x 12mm SMO Reflector
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Lighted Rotary six mode tail switch & Momentary button
Dual colour Tritium indicators
Lockout-able
Diffuser/ protective carry case
Magnetic cell contacts
18350 cell compatible
Removable USB charging unit

Length – 94mm
Width – 27mm
Weight – 192g (with 18350 cell)

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New Modes, Operation & Light output:

Pressing the momentary button or turning the rotary tail switch clockwise gives these approximate outputs:

Mo Sw - 1330 lm
Mode - 1 - 1200 lm
Mode - 2 - 392 lm
Mode - 3 - 174 lm
Mode - 4 - 45 lm
Mode - 5 - 3 lm
Mode - 6 - FF

Max cd - 15000
Max Throw - 245m

CRX Rotary CF - XPL-HI v2 3A 5000K - RSD - 18350 - Rotary Lighted Tail Sw - 1330lm..

The Last Katun
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Modding the UF-C1 (P60) and the Revtronic PT20, to both I added the light cap. The PT20 has already been modified by replacing the reflector with a 120° TIR; I use it only in the house and so is very handy

CRX
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CRX
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And some carbon fibre on the CRX CSLNM1.TG Copper & Titanium Zoomie :)

.

Carbon fibre spare cell carriers?

 

DB Custom
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Carbon fiber spare cell carriers?

Yes please, I’ll take 3! Big Smile

DB Custom
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My friend sent me a Lumintop Tool AA/14500 Ver. 2.0 that arrived yesterday. It had an XP-L HD in it but that didn’t last long, I pulled the pill out, filed off the raised outer edges and filed down a 16mm Noctigon to fit squarely on top of the aluminum pill, then placed a White Flat on the Noctigon. Left the driver alone so it can run AA or 14500 either one. The White Flat makes 538 lumens on a Red Efest 14500 not fully charged and the hot spot is more concentrated with less spill. Works for me!

CRX
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DB Custom wrote:
Carbon fiber spare cell carriers?

Yes please, I’ll take 3! Big Smile


You could be in luck Big Smile
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66337
g_damian
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Convoy S11 with XHP50.2 80 CRI 4000K and 6V 4.8A boost driver. Modes: 0.1A, 0.4A, 2.3A, 5A. On max mode it takes almost 10A from the battery, however that is too much for the switch and the driver warns about low voltage.

Album with all pictures

DB Custom
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What cell are you running in it?

g_damian
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DB Custom wrote:
What cell are you running in it?

Black Shockli 26650 IMR 30A 5500mAh

DB Custom
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Interesting. That cell should be capable without running into issue. The only cell I know for sure that is better, same class, is the Golisi in gold. Changing class to a 21700 the 30T or 40T may still outperform the Golisi but it’s marginal even there. The Golisi is markedly better than the LiitoKala black…. still, perhaps a good cleaning of all contacts with De-Oxit Gold would help?

DB Custom
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Spring bypasses will help. If it has an Omten switch, even a mini, you don’t have to worry about the switch, they can run up to around 30A before having any real issues.

g_damian
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DB Custom wrote:
Spring bypasses will help. If it has an Omten switch, even a mini, you don’t have to worry about the switch, they can run up to around 30A before having any real issues.

I installed a large blue spring and it helped:

This is a picture of stock forward switch included in S11 host package:

Yokiamy
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I like the S11 design, but how does the heat dissipation work out ?
It still uses a pill, which makes it easy to mod, but wouldn’t a shelf help on it?

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

WTS BLF GT

 

DB Custom
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Not the most desireable of switches but as long as it hasn’t melted or softened such that it won’t click then it’s still doing it’s job.

MascaratumB
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Mod doubt:
I have a brass ring that I will use as a spacer (17mm-23mm) for a 17mm L4P driver.
My doubt is how should I attach the driver to the ring? Solder? Epoxy? Any kind of wires?

The ring is supposed to be on the spring side (of course) and I will sand/file/bore it till the inner diameter matches the driver (to avoid contact with the wires or spring.
But I’m having these doubts about how to attach one thing to the other ! Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Lightbringer
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Whatever you do, attach it so that the battery pushes the driver into the ring tighter (ie, sitting on a shelf), and not that it could push the driver out of the ring.

If you have a set of step-bits that does 17mm, use that to get a nice flat bottom in the ring, even if it’s almost foil-thin. Don’t drill all the way through and hope that solder will keep the driver in place. It may work for a while, but constant hammering on it might weaken the solder to the point where the driver gets pushed right through, probably taking some copper traces with it.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

CRX
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Yep, what he said, and always best to solder if you can.

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Got done with an emitter swap on my S1R II Baton, used a filed down Convoy S2+ DTP board with a 90CRI Nichia 219B 5700k emitter.

I got far too involved with actually doing it that I didn’t take any photos apart from the filed down DTP board installed in the light itself, and it was a bit of work filing down the edges of the board to fit but once it was done it went in smoothly.

Most people have reduced the thickness of the board itself to compensate for the extremely thin stock board that comes in the S1R II, I chose to file down the white plastic cup the TIR lens sits in instead. It allowed the TIR to sit flush with the emitter board and the opening was just the right size for the whole emitter to sit within the lens. Fully assembled the bezel ring sits flush without any gaps. Nice! Of course I forgot to center the ring. A minor detail, but if it bothers me enough over time I’ll end up fixing it.

One thing of note is that it gets very hot now compared to stock. Running it on turbo the head gets near D4 levels of hot after some 30-40 seconds. Not hot enough to burn, but extremely uncomfortable to hold near the head. Given it’s a marginally noticeable bump between high and turbo and doesn’t get nearly as hot nearly as quickly when on high, I’ll limit turbo to quick blips here and there.

Here’s some comparison shots, photos taken at 5000K WB, color corrected for 0 green/magenta tint shift.

S2R II Stock SST-40 6500-7500k ||| S1R II 219B 5700k 90CRI ||| BLF Q8 LH351D 5000k 90CRI ||| Emisar D4 SST-20 4000k 95CRI

And color comparison:

S2R II

Nichia S1R II

D4 SST20 with a 10623 optic

Needless to say if it were easier to remove the bezel ring on the S2R II I’d do an emitter swap on it in a heartbeat.

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