Emisar D18 introduction

almost 3 or so, since it does around 5500+ or something on high drain batteries.

A lot of recent high-CRI emitter don’t come in 4500K. I don’t know why. They go up to 4000K, and they go above 5000K, but they have nothing between. If I recall correctly, this is the case for SST-20, LH351D, and 219C. And if I recall correctly, SST-20 doesn’t even have high CRI above 4000K.

However, there are still ways to get 4500K. With so many emitters, it would be a great light for some tint mixing. Put in a mix of 4000K and 5000K emitters, and the tint should be a nicer color temperature which also has a slighly more pink bias.

It could be arranged like this, for example: 9x4000K, 9x5000K

Or to make things look even nicer, it could use all four emitter tints: 3x3000K, 6x4000K, 6x5000K, 3x6500K

This would probably make a very nice-looking ~4700K beam with vivid color rendering, as long as the emitters have the same Vf.

As for me, this is the optimal configuration:
3x18650
18xXP-L HI 3A
Without AUX led
Black
100 $ hmmm

:open_mouth:
I need to try it! I NEED TO TRY IT!

Basically we wanted to keep the size and weight as small as possible with lots of LEDs, without compromising too much, because always a large mass and volume of a host can be better for LED liefespan and actual turbo power, however there is also a limit into jacket pocketability if a light is too big and heavy, so wanted that aspect to be quite ok.
Glad you like it.

The XP-L HI’s are expensive compared to SST-20’s, 18 XP-L HI’s at around $5.00- $6.00 bucks street price.

Very nice, pricing?
Thank you

nice. Was asking myself today what I should get for my birthday…

Will this be a bit lighter than a BLF Q8? I hope so… body is 4-6 mm thinner, this is good :slight_smile:
And will it be flat or button top?

can we hope for a screw-hole for tripods?

Wow, it looks AWESOME :heart_eyes:

Will it have flashing VIAs like the D4S ?

What driver does this use? Is it an FET+1 like the other emisar lights?

First big lumen light I’ve been interested in in some time :slight_smile:

This is a question I am very interested to hear the answer to. The flashing vias were actually the reason I bought the D4S, as I really wanted an Anduril flashlight. It was a fantastic idea to include such a feature in the driver!

I’m assuming the D18 will by default be running the same firmware as the D4S?

We have a ROT66 killer over here. Without lightened switch, aux led, charging ports and other gimmicks.

3*18650 format is comfortable even for holding the light for long.

I hope you make a 21700 D4 or D4S once.

CCT mixing will result in a better tint, but figuring out how to do it in this light gives me a headache :stuck_out_tongue:

Does it have D4 UI V2, V3 or Anduril?

That’s a rather odd place for a lanyard hole since the hand will be placed over it. And it looks sharp.

@Hank, the 3000K and 4000K SST-20’s you have in stock are binned above the BBL thus the tint of them isn’t super appealing. The 3500K version BlueSwordM sells is binned below the BBL (GA3 tint bin). Can you make a D18 with them after sending these leds to you? Or maybe you are willing so source them. Or selling a D18 without leds and with an adequate lower price.

For that size, there is no place for a battery carryer. Thant means 3P battery with contact-ring on the driver.
So you will need button-top Samsung batteries or flat-top batteries from other manufacturers.
From my experiemence Samsung has deepened flat tops, that means shrink tube is higher than the flat top. And that will not make contact to a driver contact ring.
The most other manufacturers has rised flat top, where the flat top is higher than shrink tube. And such batteries will make contact. E.g. Sony, LG, Sanyo, … will fit.
High current batteries only. I think 20A per battery is realistic. That means around 3A per Emitter.

The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.

:+1:
and please with USB-C charging port

That’s not going to happen and it’s a shame IMO…
My Olight X7R sees much more use that my X7 because of that.
Taking out multiple cells to charge them then put them back in the light is really a PITA compared to simply plug in a cable.
I mean, okay swapping batteries on a single battery flashlight like the D4 is natural because it eats them so fast… but on a multiple cells like the D18 it would be more practical.
Anyway, this is an unpopular flashaolic opinion and I’m going to put it in the appropriate thread.

Wow, Hank. That looks really good!

Stop making me feel these feels. That looks like a PiTA to pull off, but damn would it be worth it……

Wondering how quickly the thermal stepdown will kick in. :slight_smile:

It seems to me when the temperature of the environment is 25°C and the temperature control of 55°C the D18 will be thermostable at 1500Lm. For greater brightness without overheating in such the body D18, emitters are needed XHP.
Turbo mode (14000Lm) will be very short, about 80 seconds.