FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - interest list closed, check your inbox for coupon code

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hyperduc
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ActiveAl wrote:

Tom Tom wrote:
[ But they have all respected my privacy. Except for you. I do try to do more than just complain and argue. Critique yes, argue no.

You hide behind a login ID, so how is your privacy violated?  



I continue to be surprised by the wide range of topics covered in this group buy thread.
Streamtronics
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hyperduc wrote:
I continue to be surprised by the wide range of topics covered in this group buy thread.

I had salad and chicken nuggets for dinner.

Joking apart, I’m really looking forward to this. I think I’m in the LH351B camp myself. I hope it’ll be a thing.
Also, sorry if that has been asked before, but in the finished product, do we have to desolder the wires to the MCPCB to flip the driver over for flashing the controller, or is there some more elegant way that doesn’t involve taking a 380 °C iron dangerously close to the emitters? Big Smile

teacher
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hyperduc wrote:

I continue to be surprised by the wide range of topics covered in this group buy thread.
Yep, pretty cool isn’t it. On a given day….. no telling what will be available for learning. . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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saypat
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anyone know of other lights in existence that use the LH351D emitter?

Bob_McBob
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saypat wrote:
anyone know of other lights in existence that use the LH351D emitter?

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65756

http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limit...

Rando
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In for 1.

Agro
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Tom Tom wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Don’t mind Sharpie Tom Tom. He just really likes to complain and argue. Even got banned for it, but he eventually made a new account. He has been stirring up trouble on BLF for three years now, since around the end of 2015.

Thanks for the public “outing” TK Sad Not.

For the record, and to correct your recollection, as Sharpie I eventually decided to withdraw from here, for a build-up of reasons, and to take a long break.

I manually deleted all my posting history, which took some time (no other mechanism to do so). Finality. Then sb56637 closed that account, permanently.

It was my decision, my choice.

When I decided to re-engage as Tom Tom, for a fresh start, I informed several close contacts of the situation. Including you.

Those who needed to know, knew.

Others could guess. Several have. And if they are interested I confirm on PM. It’s never been a secret. But they have all respected my privacy. Except for you.

I do try to do more than just complain and argue. Critique yes, argue no.


Tom Tom, I view you as the biggest complainer of the forum. Often negative and very vocal about it.
But non-aggressive towards other members. And often constructive.
So…from my point of view your transformation was a success. Thumbs Up
CRX
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A lot of what he says is quite correct but he comes across at times as so dreary, negative and repetitive it gets tiresome.
I put two and two together a while ago as to who it was when the old bluntness started showing through.
Keep that in check and you will be alright here Tom Tom, the forum is very forgiving.

mortuus
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can we leave tom tom alone now ? it gets us nowhere and is way off-topic for this thread…

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CRX
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Yes, we wouldn’t want to go off topic in this thread Big Smile

teacher
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CRX wrote:
Yes, we wouldn’t want to go off topic in this thread Big Smile
Heavens no, that would be tragic. Especially since the thread has stayed so close to topic thus far… Big SmileBig Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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I had forgot all about TK’s Tom Tom post, I was back focused on the light again. Then Tom brings it up and now it’s topical again. I think he shot hiself in the foot by bringing it up. Facepalm

Now back to the FW3A. Innocent

MascaratumB
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JasonWW wrote:
[…]Now back to the FW3A. Innocent

OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives? Party

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

teacher
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MascaratumB wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
[…]Now back to the FW3A. Innocent
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives? Party
Not planning on modding. The only exception being a possible LED change in one (1) of mine. The stock XP-L HI’s will remain in the others.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

MascaratumB
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teacher wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
[…]Now back to the FW3A. Innocent
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives? Party
Not planning on modding. The only exception being a possible LED change in one (1) of mine. The stock XP-L HI’s will remain in the others.

I’ve been thinking on that too, I would like to get some Luxeon V 4000K into it!
Recently, I started thinking about the possibility to add a tritium vial in the tail cap, but that may be dependent on the thickness of the metal (to dig a place for the trit) Beer

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

BlueSwordM
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I’m probably going to try and electroplate this light.

I’d love myself a copper plated light, or a silver plated light.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

joechina
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MascaratumB wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
[…]Now back to the FW3A. Innocent

OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives? Party

Slicing LH351 for High CRI Samsung HI version.

-X3-
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I would have liked some LH351*B* but they don’t like direct drive…
So it’ll be SST20, maybe I’ll try a 3000K + 4000K + 5000K mix to see how it goes.
Maybe Orange LEDs if it’s there for Halloween Innocent

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iamlucky13
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MascaratumB wrote:
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives?

I’ll configure Anduril to discrete ramping, floor level 1, ceiling level 130 (max 8 × 7135), and 7 steps. This puts max 1 × 7135 at step 4.

I’ve been using discrete ramping with my ROT66 and I think I prefer it this way. Of course, if I need more options, it only takes three clicks to go back to smooth ramping.

If I have the free time, I’ll do a 3-way comparison to decide what emitter choice I like best:

  • LH351D Stock
  • LH351D Sliced domes
  • SST-20
Tom Tom
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The ease of modding will depend on whether Lumintop glue it together, as was their intention.

Please not, at least for the BLF run.

Has that been kiboshed yet ?

Lower Vf leds don’t concern me, actually my preference for overall efficiency and consistency of output, in linear mode. This has X1 and X7 7135 banks (I think), which is enough to sustain more than enough output for my needs, and as much as something this size can reasonably sustain, thermally.

Actually this driver (DEL’s ISTR) is a key attraction, together with the lack of bling stuff (e.g lighted up this that and the other).

I see the FET as a novelty feature, of little practical use, for me, for a few seconds. But fun.

As a compact, factory triple, with an attractive driver and firmware, at a price which I would exceed just trying to cobble together e.g. an S2 myself, I still want one.

The tail e-switch keeps it short, but adds a lot of complexity and potential for future problems. Time will tell. At least it is in the right place, tail, not side. It also makes it interesting.

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Efficiency is in opposition to consistency of output with linear drivers. That is to say, consistency of output is provided by lower Vf, but using a linear driver with a large difference between LED Vf and battery voltage results in more energy wasted by the driver.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

shirnask
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MascaratumB wrote:
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives? Party

LH351D

SST-20 – 4000k

SST-20 – 2700k

XP-L HI V2 5D

SKY69
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I would like to add one more for a total of 2 please

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2xLH351D 4000k+1x SST-20 3500k.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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Tom Tom wrote:
The ease of modding will depend on whether Lumintop glue it together, as was their intention.

Not really. Keep in mind that they were only considering using glue on the tail cap. So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.

All the more likely mods, swapping emmiters, lenses, etc… are not effected.

Rectors
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Sign me up plz. Thanks OP.

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2* 4000k SST-20 & 1* 3000k SST-20 might be a nice combo

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JasonWW wrote:
So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.

How much of an effect does bypassing the tail spring actually have? I know PFlexPRO swears by it (claiming “200 lumens” worth of reduced resistance), but if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?

djozz
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charwinger21 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.

How much of an effect does bypassing the tail spring actually have? I know PFlexPRO swears by it (claiming “200 lumens” worth of reduced resistance), but if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?


It does make such a difference but more light is not always a good thing for a responsible manufacturer:

Often bypassing springs is done in flashlights with already high current/output in which case a bypass will add light in an inefficient region of the output curve of the led, so the bit of extra light comes with disproportional shorter runtime and lots of extra heat. This may be worth it for a flashoholic but in general it is a bad idea.

If there is any light around in which bypassing springs could cause more trouble than is worth the extra light, it is the tiny FW3A.

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