Lumintop GT micro

Well, if the code is archived in a repository, why not have Martin update the opening thread with a link to the code, so at least those searching for info on this light will find this thread and thus a link to the code on page 1? Again, not ideal, but it’s better than what it is now, which is nil. I’m sure there are threads for all the above lights, and links could be added there too.

This is basically what has been happening, I have been posting the firmware in the random threads for each light, it just tends to get lost in them.

I actually did not make the firmware or driver for this light, Schoki did both, he just used the TA layout and my version of Narsil as the base for it.

I don’t know that I ever got the source code for this light, I need to check on that come to think of it.

That’s cool… though my suggestion is to have the link in the opening post (will need the poster to edit said post) this way at least we’ll all know that the source code is in the opening post for threads like these. Making it at least easier to find, rather than digging through pages and pages.

May also help to collaborate with reviewers of such lights; that they can add a link to the source code. They can also do it in the comments section on YouTube as well. We have a few guys that regularly review lights; I can’t see why they wouldn’t do it?!

if i get those links i will add them of course!

Looks like I was mistaken, Schoki made the driver and I assumed he made the firmware as well since there was no firmware in my archive for this light. Turns out he did not send it either, it seems they used the GT-mini firmware on the GT micro.

I think TK has this already but not sure if it is in the repo yet. Here it is again though

404 page not found, you sure you got the right link? (or was I just too fast)

Edit: yes I was

There are solutions to all of those things. They might not be easy, but work rarely is… and making those solutions happen is part of the job.

Ordered mine on Feburary 23, still unfulfilled.

I recieved my high drain Windyfire 650mah button top battery. Here are the updated numbers.

Tail cap amp draws using the UT210E clamp meter.

Top of ramp - 2.2A
Turbo at 3 secs - 4.6A
Turbo at 30 secs - 4.1A

Maukka calibrated TA Lumen Tube to measure the output.

Top of ramp - 650 lm
Turbo at 1 secs - 1100 lm
Turbo at 30 secs - 970 lm

LX1330B lux meter at 10 meters to measure throw.

At 10 seconds I got 63Kcd - 502 meters.
At 30 seconds the output dropped to 60Kcd - 490 meters.

Not bad, better then I was expecting.

The worst thing about this is that such a low capacity battery is enough for 8 minutes of turbo lighting. That’s why I prefer the flashlight to 18650. They are not much bulky, and they can shine much longer.

We are about dead even, with me using an EFEST here, good to know.

Lumens at top of ramp, lumens at turbo, and throw -- dead-on or very close.

I agree, while this is a nice light of this size, its not that much smaller compared to gt mini which is perfect thrower in that size to justify a purchase for me, i rather for a gt nano if thats even possible to do… shame that 14500 is max at around 1000mah… thats not much for a light pulling almost 1000 lumens max turbo :frowning:

18650 is made by top notch Japanese battery makers using their special chemical mixes to get the best performance whether it be high capacity or high amperage.

All the smaller sizes (16340, 14500, 18350, etc…) are only made by smaller battery companies who don’t have the best mixes. This is why the highest capacity 18350 cells are barely 1150mah when they should be about half of an 18650. 1150 x 2 = 2300mah. A top 18650 is about 3400mah. Where are the true 1700mah 18350 cells? They don’t exist.

High amperage is the one area where these smaller companies can kind of compete with the Japanese Big 4. There are 18350 cells that really can put of half the amperage of an 18650 and then some.

The same situation goes for 26650 cells. If the Big 4 made that size we would see 7000mah 26650, but we don’t. Recently we got some 5,750mah 26650 cells. That’s a big jump over the previous 5,000mah.

So if you want the best batteries, you need to stick to 18650 or 21700 as they are made by the Big 4. Just the way it is. ¯\

PS, I still like these bigger and smaller sizes even though they don’t have the best capacity. They make for interesting lights.

PPS, the Big 4 are LG, Sony, Samsung and Panasonic/Sanyo.

Jason im just curious, how long does that small Windyfire battery give juice on highest before it starts flickering cant be long right ?

You are pulling slightly higher amps than me. I wonder if it’s because my battery is a button top? I forgot to mention that, but added it.

It’s really tricky trying to hold the wires to get that tail cap amperage. I might try it again later. Maybe I’ll charge and drain the battery a few times to “break it in”. :smiley:

What do you mean flickering? It should never flicker. Do you mean step down from Turbo due to heat or maybe do the Low Voltage Blink then step down?

Let me recharge the battery and try it out.

Okay, freshly charged Windyfire. It ran on Turbo right at 3:30 then stepped down in brightness. It was quite hot. I went back to Turbo and it stepped down after 30 seconds. So thermal management is doing it’s job.

Battery showed to be at 3.81 volts. 4 minutes of Turbo really puts a whooping on this 14500! Lol. It’s probably best to use the Top of Ramp instead of Turbo if you want much longer run times and cooler temps.

I decided to film it since I don’t think there’s many videos of the Micro. Why not?

I guess my Micro's bezel is glued up - can't budge it through normal means, like with a good pair of sticky gloves. Anyone else try yet?

Anyone know if they all have the bezels glued? It was supposed to be the same as the Mini - at least what Martin said here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/54245/133

I got 2 Mini's - both not glued at the bezel.

ah cool thanks for video fun to see, wow poor cell it didnt last many minutes :smiley: