这是个好消息, Barry! :THUMBS-UP: If you are able to source LH351D 5.000K 70CRI (W6 Flux Bin) for ultimate performance (approx. 500 lumens less than or equal to original XP-L2 configuration) and LH351D 4.000K 90CRI for best colour rendition you would make a lot of BLF members happy. :-)
Two suggestions from my side:
Please don't use glue on the SP36. It's a nightmare to pull out the driver. It took a 3000°C blowtorch and a lot of strength to loosen the driver enough to get it out.
Please check those stainless steel countersunk screws on the negative pole disc that retains the springs. All current needs to run through these little screws causing a major bottleneck (in numbers you loose about 500-1000 lumens incl. bypassed springs). The disc should better be deanodized.
A friend of mine did this amazing job. He told me he used an ethyle welding torch for it. It was a real mess to get rid of all these solder residues from the brass ring afterwards. There was no way of pulling it out like Djozz did or by attaching a cable with two solder joints to pull on it.
Is there a more mod-friendly adhesive that can be used? If it’s only to stop the driver falling out when the battery tube is removed it doesn’t need to be that strong.
Did you test the SP36 with AR coated lenses or with a standard glas lenses? What is the chromatic tint bin of the LH351D you have tested? Do you have the exact bin codes? Maybe you were using LEDs that are above the BBL, causing a tint shift into green/yellow.
It was a groupbuy interest list for several different things. Refer to post #62 and #254, if they are true, I think obtaining below BBL tints is not impossible. Maybe Sofirn can look into that. Actually SST-20 is also a nice option as it should be more readily available and more throwy. I personally prefer below the BBL tints though.
@Lux-perpetua and Jos, why did you need to take out the driver? Just to see if it is possible? (I admit that i prefer the Q8 with the screwed down driver.)
The most logic explanation for me was to take out the MCPCB and reflow some emitters of your choice.
Emitters can only be exchanged by pulling out the driver from the SP36. I wanted to have a SP36 with 4x LH351D 5.000K 70CRI. Again, there is no reason to use glue in this flashlight, at least not such extreme amounts. The driver remains at its place even without glue.
You may be lucky to catch a sample with less glue than mine was. A friend of mine opened two of the SP36. The second one had two small blobs of glue only, reducing the effort significantly to pull the driver.
