2000k flashlight

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xenotar80
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2000k flashlight

does anyone know if there are any flashlights ready to buy with a 2000K color temp, preferably with a high CRI? thanks!

HONDARIDER
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I guess the lowest I’ve seen are 2700k. I’d like to know also if there is one. Not sure I would like it though. Maybe way too much yellow. 3500k is what I like the most. 4000k would be second.

Jay
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The JetuE21A from Clemence (Virence.com) can be had in 90+CRI 2000K – unfortunately looks like it’s currently out of stock though.

ma tumba
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HONDARIDER wrote:
I guess the lowest I’ve seen are 2700k. I’d like to know also if there is one. Not sure I would like it though. Maybe way too much yellow. 3500k is what I like the most. 4000k would be second.

The 2000k e21a mentioned above have an outstanding tint that teminds me of a very deep sunset. There are yellowish tints around but not that one
cetary
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I agree with ma tumba. The tint on Tuesday 2000K E21A is excellent. I believe Clemence still sells the boards with the emitters in a quad configuration. I used that in a copper S2+ in a custom build. If you were really up for it, you might be able to do a custom build, but keep in mind the board is a bit of a pain to work with in a compact host. Unfortunately not a ready to buy option. However, Simon at Convoy now does the 2700K SST-20 in the Convoy S2+ that I’d about the next closest thing I’ve found to the 2000K E21A, for HONDARIDER.

xenotar80
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i saw the virence 2000k a few days ago but it went out of stock, and he’s not sure if he will bring them back. i wonder if i should just attempt a custom build, if so, i have lots of reading ahead of me. i did see the convoy 2700k sst-20 a week ago and i picked up one of those. not too many other options besides those it seems like eh?

cetary
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There is the Sofirn SF-36W, but it has a bad beam, and middling tint. It is not as warm as the 2700K SST-20. There are quite a few 3000K SST-20 choices like the D4S, M43, and upcoming D18. Those have a CCT just as warm as the Sofirn, but much better light qualities. The guy who runs emisar/intl-outdoor ,Hank Wang, might be able to do a custom build with the 2700K SST-20’s if that turns out to be warm enough for your needs and you want to pursue higher powered lights.

Unfortunately not a whole lot of non-DIY options for the ultra-warm CCT at the moment. Another emitter option for the DIY route would be the ultra-warm CCT Luminus Cube 1800K. I do have a board for a couple of the 1800K Luminus Cubes I’m waiting on to run in parallel, and we’ll see how those go when I get them into an S3. I tried the 2200K XT-E, but that was 80 CRI didn’t deliver its promised CCT and looked horrible in orange peel optics.

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cetary wrote:
ultra-warm CCT Luminus Cube 1800K. I do have a board for a couple of the 1800K Luminus Cubes.

Where can they be found?

I like E21A 2000K, 1800K should be even more interesting)

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Andrey, please make a groupbuy for EA 21A 2.000K or 1.800K! That would be awesome! Big Smile

cetary
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I would buy an 1800K E21A in a heartbeat, but I think the warmest CCT they come in is 2000K.

The Luminus Cube in 1800K 90 CRI is available on Mouser , but you need a board like this to fit the small footprint of the Cube. I have that board on order. At this point it’s the main thing I am waiting for. I plan to run two of the 1800K emitters in parallel at just over 1000 milliamps. I’m still a bit undecided on the optics, maybe an LEDil Boom-s? I think that and an 18350 tube might be in my future.

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:
Andrey, please make a groupbuy for EA 21A 2.000K or 1.800K! That would be awesome! Big Smile

There is no E21A 1800K, I mean Luminus Cube 1800K.
E21A can be found at virence.com .
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cetary wrote:
The Luminus Cube in 1800K 90 CRI is available on Mouser , but you need a board like this to fit the small footprint of the Cube.

Thanks! I think 4*1.6mm led can be fitted at 3.5mm board or 5mm board.

cetary
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AEDe wrote:
Thanks! I think 4*1.6mm led can be fitted at 3.5mm board or 5mm board.

Would that be a 2s2p wiring? We might need a boost driver for that.

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cetary wrote:
AEDe wrote:
Thanks! I think 4*1.6mm led can be fitted at 3.5mm board or 5mm board.

Would that be a 2s2p wiring? We might need a boost driver for that.

No, I mean the same idea as for Optisolis.

Central pad now is not neutral , original “+” and “-” are connected.

cetary
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So both the outer pads become hot+ and the thermal isolation pad becomes negative-? I hadn’t thought of that! That looks like a better idea, more of those ultra-warm lumens, and a better fit for optics

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cetary wrote:
I would buy an 1800K E21A in a heartbeat, but I think the warmest CCT they come in is 2000K.

The Luminus Cube in 1800K 90 CRI is available on Mouser , but you need a board like this to fit the small footprint of the Cube. I have that board on order. At this point it’s the main thing I am waiting for. I plan to run two of the 1800K emitters in parallel at just over 1000 milliamps. I’m still a bit undecided on the optics, maybe an LEDil Boom-s? I think that and an 18350 tube might be in my future.

Did you ever get the Luminous cube in 1800K to work? Quite interested in that one now that I’ve modded something already

cetary
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xenotar80 wrote:

Did you ever get the Luminous cube in 1800K to work? Quite interested in that one now that I’ve modded something already

Heck yeah I got it to work. Smile I used the board from Clemence since that 3535 quad board technique that makes the center DTP pad the – ended up tripping up any driver UI I had installed. It’s amber toned, definitely. It makes my 2000K E21A look like a regular warm white household bulb even though it’s something very different. Almost feels like LPS/SOX levels of warmth, but with the color rendering turned on. This is when compared to my NBA LED. I might give the 2200K cube a shot next, but maybe use a different board. I’m currently feeding the two Cube emitters in parallel with a 1.4 amp driver.

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I don’t know if the Luminus Cube will center well on it but there are MCPCB for Cree XQ-E that is also a 1616 LED.

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cetary wrote:
xenotar80 wrote:

Did you ever get the Luminous cube in 1800K to work? Quite interested in that one now that I’ve modded something already

Heck yeah I got it to work. Smile I used the board from Clemence since that 3535 quad board technique that makes the center DTP pad the – ended up tripping up any driver UI I had installed. It’s amber toned, definitely. It makes my 2000K E21A look like a regular warm white household bulb even though it’s something very different. Almost feels like LPS/SOX levels of warmth, but with the color rendering turned on. This is when compared to my NBA LED. I might give the 2200K cube a shot next, but maybe use a different board. I’m currently feeding the two Cube emitters in parallel with a 1.4 amp driver.

Wow awesome. I want one now. Is there a good place to learn about LED compatibilities with mcpcb and voltage etc?

Would I be able to put the luminous cube in an armytek wizard pro? it’s 12V

also what light did you end up using as the host? Clemence is currently out of stock on the mcpcb. :/

cetary
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Tally-ho wrote:
I don’t know if the Luminus Cube will center well on it but there are MCPCB for Cree XQ-E that is also a 1616 LED.

Yes, those boards for the XQ-E should work. The Cube and the XQ-E have nearly identical footprints, essentially like a zero ohm SMD jumper almost. Pretty easy to get solder paste on and reflow because of no separate thermal pad in the middle.

Are those boards running those emitters in parallel? Do you have to address each emitter individually or can you run them all off of one set of positive and negative leads? The second board should fit in something like a Convoy M1/M2/S11, but would need an XP-E size centering ring for the optics to fit properly. You can still get by without the ring. The first board would work in any of those hosts, but would need a spacer for the compact TIR optics to fit. Those boards are unfortunately a little too big to squeeze into an S2+ shorty.

Quote:
Wow awesome. I want one now. Is there a good place to learn about LED compatibilities with mcpcb and voltage etc?

Would I be able to put the luminous cube in an armytek wizard pro? it’s 12V

also what light did you end up using as the host? Clemence is currently out of stock on the mcpcb. :/

For a 12 volt light you would need 4 of the Luminus Cubes in series. That second board Talley-Ho linked, if that came in a 4 series setup, that could be a candidate for your host. You would need to make sure the width of the MCPCB would fit.

Manufacturer specificication sheets for forward drive voltage and compatible footprints. Website specifications for MCPCB size; footprint compatibility; and operation type, like 4 series, 2 series operation and so on. Confirming those two pieces of information match will give us our compatibility. Sometimes, we can bend the rules a bit and use something like a 3030 footprint LED on a 3535 footprint. That information is gained from experience.

I ended up using a Convoy S3, so I could easily play around with different optics.

xenotar80
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thanks for the info. did a bunch of reading and I think i understand everything you wrote. did you ever stumble upon any other mcpcbs were compatible with the luminus cube?

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I have modded a lantern with 2000K LEDs, its basically a “Kerosene lamp yellow flame on low” tint. A very, very warm yellowish glow, but i like it for night lights & moon light modes. I bought a lot of 2000K flame-yellow cheap LEDs from Ebay for that purpose, (the 1W Luxeon bead-type LEDs.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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cetary wrote:
Are those boards running those emitters in parallel? Do you have to address each emitter individually or can you run them all off of one set of positive and negative leads?

I don’t have this on hand and was wondering the same. The jumper pads seem to be made to run LEDs in series and there is none for another configuration so it probably needs 3x sets of positive and negative leads.
cetary
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xenotar80 wrote:
thanks for the info. did a bunch of reading and I think i understand everything you wrote. did you ever stumble upon any other mcpcbs were compatible with the luminus cube?

The other board I was looking at was this. Since the thermal pad is electrically isolated it might work with the quad setup technique mentioned above a bit better. I’ve worked with those MCPCB’s, and they are difficult to solder. You would need a hot iron to get it to work.

This would be a better candidate, however. You would need to make sure its 20mm diameter fits in the light you want. It is configurable for 12 volt or 4 series operation, so it should electrically work in the light you mentioned earlier, but I don’t know if the diameter would fit. That is where you would need to measure the board that is in there already.

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dumb question, but how could 2000K have a high CRI?
wouldn;t it be too yellow, and not render blues and purples accurately?

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cetary
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wle wrote:
dumb question, but how could 2000K have a high CRI? wouldn;t it be too yellow, and not render blues and purples accurately?

How could 6000K have high CRI, wouldn’t that be too blue, and not render reds/oranges accurately? Chromatic adaptation is the mechanism that in the human eye that corrects for CCT/SPD differences.

Sorry if that came off as snobish.

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cetary wrote:
wle wrote:
dumb question, but how could 2000K have a high CRI? wouldn;t it be too yellow, and not render blues and purples accurately?

How could 6000K have high CRI, wouldn’t that be too blue, and not render reds/oranges accurately? Chromatic adaptation is the mechanism that in the human eye that corrects for CCT/SPD differences.

Sorry if that came off as snobish.

i don’t get it
it seems it doesn;t matter either way?

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cetary
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wle wrote:

i don’t get it
it seems it doesn;t matter either way?

“Chromatic adaptation is the human visual system’s ability to adjust to changes in illumination in order to preserve the appearance of object colors. It is responsible for the stable appearance of object colors despite the wide variation of light which might be reflected from an object and observed by our eyes…An object may be viewed under various conditions. For example, it may be illuminated by sunlight, the light of a fire, or a harsh electric light. In all of these situations, human vision perceives that the object has the same color: an apple always appears red, whether viewed at night or during the day (unless it is green). On the other hand, a camera with no adjustment for light may register the apple as having varying color. This feature of the visual system is called chromatic adaptation, or color constancy; when the correction occurs in a camera it is referred to as white balance.”

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_adaptation

So the human vision equivalent of white balance is known as Color Constancy. I learned something new! Not the best source, but it’ll get the job done in this case.

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wle wrote:
dumb question, but how could 2000K have a high CRI? wouldn;t it be too yellow, and not render blues and purples accurately?

Most typical households use 2700K light bulbs. Incadescent light bulbs from yesteryears are 2400K and 100CRI. Candle flame is 1800k and 100 CRI. If you use an E21A 2000K 9080 in the day time, it will look too yellow and not like it like my own experience when I first received my Tiara Pro 2000k from Virence.com. A few months later, I used it at night when my eyes are adapted to the darkness and warmth, and the color rendering is amazing. It didn’t look overly yellow at all and good thing is it doesn’t wake up sleeping family members like my other flashlights do on low output because it contains almost no blue wavelength.

Also if you test a 4000k light at night when your eyes are adapted to 2700k or 3000k ceiling fixtures, it actually looks slightly bluish. It’s all about your eyes adjusting to the color temperature.

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ok i still don;t get it
you can adjust to anything, apparently
i have a 3000K light [astrolux s1] and it looks too yellow to me

wle

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xenotar80
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cetary wrote:
The other board I was looking at was this. Since the thermal pad is electrically isolated it might work with the quad setup technique mentioned above a bit better. I’ve worked with those MCPCB’s, and they are difficult to solder. You would need a hot iron to get it to work.

This would be a better candidate, however. You would need to make sure its 20mm diameter fits in the light you want. It is configurable for 12 volt or 4 series operation, so it should electrically work in the light you mentioned earlier, but I don’t know if the diameter would fit. That is where you would need to measure the board that is in there already.

Yeah the wizard pro mcpcb is 16mm. I’ll have to wait til Virence gets it back in stock as it seems like the best option for that particular light. I was chatting with him and another 16mm board is ready to be sent off for production but he has some large projects currently is very busy at the moment. But I think I’ll still want to play with the luminus cube 1800K in a different host.

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