They are all different lights.
Some other guys saw yours and wanted one of their own 
I have made three different Rev.3 versions, plus working on another now.
That Black Triple w H17f is just an Outstanding package! Beautiful, sophisticated, functional art.
so are the other two 
@CRX Wow! I love your work.
I think I know someone that wants a Paladin and a Mini Turbo…
Im entering a Trit Phase… that promises to be expensive too… LOL
I have a few but I only use my Olight H1. I like to clip it to my shirt. I was surprised at how many people think it’s a camera of some sort.
Yeah tritium vials are great if you can incorporate them. Just one at the switch is enough really, but there are some crazy tricked up lights out there, no need to turn on for moonlight…
They seem expensive at the time but last for a good few years at an acceptable output level. Green for lights, red for blades.
Gorgeous! I’m jealous. I’ve got an early NovaTac 120P that I’ve kept as a bedside light for some time now (it has a Peu bezel with trits), and would love to convert it to a 219 Nichia triple… but I can’t get myself over the investment required, when it would easily fund something like a Zebralight SC64c LE or Jetbeam RRT-01. Maybe I’ll change my mind when I finally get free of financial stress.
I hear you about HDS. They do make a great quality light, but the price... At this point, they're just periodically upgrading emitters. Everything else remains the same. So R&D costs have long been recouped. They're just cash-cowing it. Same thing for Oveready. I think there's a portion of the flashlight community that is loaded with disposable income, helping to keep such enterprises going.
I agree, some of them are so seriously impressive to behold in dim light or darkness. But over $100 in trits… seems like such a waste. They will remain reasonably bright up to about 10 years then the fading is more noticeable next to fresh tritium. That’s not bad. But the unspoken problem is fragility. You really need to be careful about seating them deeply enough. I discovered one day that one of the trits on my NovaTac 120P went dark. Sure enough, the vial had been compromised. When I looked at it up close with magnification, I could see it had cracked. Even though the vials should be protected with sufficient optical adhesive, there is the matter of “settling”… I have to wonder if in many cases, the vials lay precariously close to the metal of the flashlight and just the right amount of force from a 3’ drop could induce enough shock to crack tritium vials.
Well, I couldn't help fully tricking out this one :)
Though I will need to be careful with it.
I have not completely filled the wells as I think sometimes this can help to break them, they are very delicate.
Holy thread revival Batman!
Robin, get in the Batmobile.
This is what dreams are made of. :heart_eyes:
i too loved the xtar wk42
just do not drop it
there is an inductor that is fairly easily knocked off the board and then it breaks the wires
unfixable
wle
don;t forget these
—i THINK they can use 16340—
super cheap small cr123a lights on aliexpress
these things are super cheap, small and have 3 modes
$2.74 w free shipping – on aliexpress
twisty, super small, somewhat waterproof, light color is cool but not too bad
low mode uses PWM, but it isnt; ridiculous
no mode memory, starts on high
beam pattern is nice, hot spot then some spill – lensing is via cone reflector
i have no monetary interest
link is not ‘affiliate’
i just love these things
wle
These days, might as well go 18350. Just a tad larger but greater mAh. But for standard (non-rechargeable) cells, can’t beat 16340 CR123A for shelf life.
actually, the ones with long shelf life are not 16340 (rechargeable) but CR123A - (not rechargeable but ’’lithium primaries”), available at any drug store or walmart
they will last 15 years sometimes, shelf life i mean
usually they are rated at least 10
3.3v max instead of 4.2 though
xtar lights could handle either
if, on installing a new cell, if it detected over 4V , it would assume rechargeable, and cut off when volts got down to 3.0
if it detected 3.2V, it would assume not rechargeable, and let the cell go down to 0V.
wle
SWM V11R (2)
ShiningBeam iMini
FourSevens Quark Tactical
ET D25C Ti. Clicky
JetBeam Pro II Ti. Purple/Teal
SWM M11R
Olight S Mini rainbow
Fenix P1D
I love lipstick lights.
Chris
An OcCultClassic, w McPistonDriveGizmo
A BlastFromThePast, coming soon to a HighCri Theatre near you
ramps from sublumen to over 300 lumens on LiIon… like… WOW!
Thanks for catching my typo. I did mean CR123A. :person_facepalming: I know, same exact form factor but different chemistry. 
Looking forward to see that mod
Cool, your going to somehow put ramping UI into a piston drive? I’ve been wondering how to do that with a light that I have :student:
Also that black swm with rainbow trits looks awesome :heart_eyes:
These PD drivers are ramping drivers by themselves!
Press and hold and they ramp up, or down, and have other shortcuts depending on the model.
But if you want other inspiration…