Need help identifying battery spacer...

If you have access to the proper tooling you could cut down the long spacers. You could make several out of a 65mm spacer. Just a thought.

Understand your concern how about pairing good magnets with nylon washers? You wouldn’t have to get a perfect fit. The washer would prevent the magnets from wandering around if the light gets bounced around.

Nice find. I could use two of the 34mm ones to replace 3xC cells with one 18650, but at $18, ouch!

Take one of those foam tubes you stick under doors to stop drafts, and run heavy-gauge wire coaxially through the center. Great and cheap dummy cells…

How about like a nylon bushing ? or a roller for a curtain rod ?

if this is to just gain height on an 18650 just do a solder blob and be done with it .

After finally doing my first solder blob I realized how stupid I'd been for waiting so long ..it solved like a million stupid problems all in a matter of 11 seconds...

how about wood or .maybe a black rubber plug or thick washer .

Go to the hardware store and ask .. They live for this stuff .

Not sure about the OP, but for me it would be to convert a 3xC light into a single 18650 light, so I’d need something around 80-85mm long.

I’ve seen people make such fillers out of wood and metal rods, but I currently don’t have access to any tools to make one of these myself.

Lightbringer’s idea might be easily doable though.

Over on CPF, one of their reps is active and they did follow-up about the 5mm being back in stock sometime in mid to late April. Their prices are OK for the small spacers, but yeah… for that multi “C” cell adapter, it’s quite pricey. However, if you drain full batteries fairly frequently, it will pay off in the long run (recharging 18650 vs. tossing “C” cells).

Thanks for the tip – I may just do that for a flat top 18350 in a Jetbeam RRT-01 that requires protected cells. The contact point is quite small, so a standard spacer would generally not work.

If it ain’t easy, I risk not ever getting it done. :confounded:

Is this what you’re referring to or something different?

I 3D print 18650 to 3C adapters:

If you want to make something from stuff at home depot, I would suggest using 3/4” PVC pipe for the tube and a 3” #10-24 round head brass screw for the contact. You will need to use something to cap off the PVC, PVC caps should work but you may need to sand them down to fit your light. Drill a hole in the center of the caps for the brass screw and cut the tube down so that the screw passes through the cap on one end by about 1/8”/3mm so that there is room for the nut and that it will by flush with the end of the screw when tightened - this will give you your spacer. Cut another piece of PVC a little shorter than your cell for a battery sleeve and it should work.

Thanks.

The only 3 inch screw I can find at HD is a 1/4in-20:

Also, will 3 inch be long enough? That’s only 76 mm.

Different. Literally, foam “tubes” to wedge under doors to stop drafts. “Solid” (as much as foam can be), no hole through the central axis or anything. Probably more likely to find something like that at a Target than a HD.

This stuff?

A bit skinny, but might be able to work.

The stuff I remember came as loose “sticks” about a yard long, 3-4 of ’em, just wrapped in a PE baggie. Kinda like pool-noodles, only scaled down.

Was over a year ago, don’t recall any brand name, don’t even recall where they were bought.

Goggled “foam stop draft under door”, almost instantly came up with

https://www.amazon.com/Evelots-Double-Window-Stopper-No-Inches-Adjustable/dp/B0100CRCUI/

which are the critters. Snip off an end from one of the white foam inserts…

Thanks, except they are 2” in diameter.

Yeh, I just squished mine in. Fits D/32650s fine, but squished it to fit a C tube and act as a dummy cell.

3” screws are long enough, you get a another 3+ mm with the head. I use the #10 screws because the heads are closer to the size of a button on a C or D cell, but a 1/4-20 screw should work provide that your light doesn’t have something for reverse polarity protection that gets in the way of a bigger button. For some reason HD no longer has them on their site but they do have the brass 3” #10-24’s in their stores, as least the one by me, as does Lowes.

BTW, I thought of another way to make 18650/3C adapter that doesn’t require any tools other than a pair of scissors.

Take the screw and put the nut on the end so that it’s flush using a drop of thread locker or superglue to keep it in place, then cut some news print from a penny saver of the like to the width between the screw head and the nut and wrap it tightly around the screw until it is about C cell diameter and secure it with some tape. It might take some trial and error to get the diameter right (don’t make it too tight that it might get stuck in your light). when you are done, this is your spacer.

To make the battery sleeve, you could cut some plastic from a 2 liter soda bottle or the like, cut to length a little shorter than a 18650 cell, loosely wrap it around your cell and again secure it with some tape. You don’t want a super tight fit either around the battery or inside the light, a relatively loose fit will work fine.

Kind of a crude way to make one, that probably won’t last forever, but it should work.

When I made my first beer bong I found an employee to discreetly ask where a few of the parts were located. He figured out what I was making because of my questions and basically showed me around the store to all the best parts I needed including recommending “options” like valves and so on.

A 3/4” PVC pipe was too wide to fit in my Defiant 3C flashlight. I ended up using a 3/4” PEX pipe instead with some smaller PEX pipes inside it.

Actually, it is 3” including the head. It ended up being too short to make good contact when using an unprotected 18650 cell, but it works fine with a protected one since it’s a bit longer.

I appreciate all the ideas.