[Optisolis/E17A/E21A] Jetbeam Jet-µ

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clemence
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COB Optisolis does better job to mix all those weird asymmetric beam from each LEDs in a compact package. But it doesn’t do few things:
- Multi CCT setup
- Low voltage. 36V is harder to implement into portable applications.
- Seamless daisy chain light panel

Tally-ho
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aswang wrote:
…personally wouldn’t mind an FW3A with triple E21A running on just the 1+7 7135 chips with FET disabled or removed.

…I blame Clemence for that Silly

SKV89
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clemence wrote:
COB Optisolis does better job to mix all those weird asymmetric beam from each LEDs in a compact package. But it doesn’t do few things: - Multi CCT setup - Low voltage. 36V is harder to implement into portable applications. - Seamless daisy chain light panel

You mean with the COB, we wouldn’t be able to mix say 2000k with 3000k?

clemence
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COB Optisolis has only single CCT options. There’s another interesting new product from Nichia, a matrix of 2700K – 5000K E21A in COB form. But it has the same 36V voltage and currently limited to only R8000.


http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_search.html?op=cond=whatsnew=%27t...

- Clemence

twisted raven
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Got my 2 Jetusolis’s in 5000k in! One appeared slightly cooler than the other, so I went with the warmer, and gave the cooler to my brother and his wife.

First impressions are that it appears much cooler than 5000k, more akin to the 5700k Nichia 219B R9050 I had on my old Jaxman E2. I wonder if a lot of that is attributed to the full cyan region of the spectrum?— I would guess so. Very pure looking. I can definitely tell it’s slightly green, but it does render reds really well regardless. Tint deviation within beam seems small in general, thanks to its floody nature, subjectively it looks like the outer edges of it are warmer and greener than the center, but that could be because there’s less lux on the outer edges.

I think I’ll try it with a green minus 1/8th filter.

clemence
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twisted raven wrote:
Got my 2 Jetusolis’s in 5000k in! One appeared slightly cooler than the other, so I went with the warmer, and gave the cooler to my brother and his wife.

First impressions are that it appears much cooler than 5000k, more akin to the 5700k Nichia 219B R9050 I had on my old Jaxman E2. I wonder if a lot of that is attributed to the full cyan region of the spectrum?— I would guess so. Very pure looking. I can definitely tell it’s slightly green, but it does render reds really well regardless. Tint deviation within beam seems small in general, thanks to its floody nature, subjectively it looks like the outer edges of it are warmer and greener than the center, but that could be because there’s less lux on the outer edges.

I think I’ll try it with a green minus 1/8th filter.

There’s small variation between LEDs, Maukka confirmed that the difference is not that large. It’s mostly cause by variation in optics. I tried my best to find relatively narrow beam with as good as possible uniform beam. I ended with hundreds of them. Just to let you know, even those 30° optic in your light was individually binned. Only 60% (so far) of the 30° optics ordered for Optisolis produce even beam. With optics > 30° you will get very even beam but perhaps not usable for most people.
As for the greeniness, compared to E21A it is greener. Compared to sw45k 219B it will be even worse. But keep in mind that sunlight is actually has green tint too, sometimes way greener than Optisolis. I remember somewhere in IRC Maukka posted two pictures of daylight (snowy winter) measurements with green tint very much like Cree (or worse, I forget).

Tip: If you want to make the beam better and don’t mind with more spill try this simple trick….
get a fine (#320 grit or higher) silicone carbide powder or make your own (soak a sandpaper in gasoline). Wet the tip of a small brush with a liquid detergent, dip it to the SiC powder and brush the lens in all directions. You don’t have to remove the lens from the flashlight to do so. Rinse it in a running water. Voila! clean floodier beam.

- Clemence

twisted raven
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The beam I’m perfectly fine with, right now it’s just the green. I do know that sunlight is on the green side of BBL, but I also tried the Optisolis out on some patches of dirt and leaves last night, and it didn’t seem to be too sunlight-looking. A lot of that might be the ghastly appearance of just having lower lux on target though. I’ll get to compare better today though.

SKV89
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twisted raven wrote:
The beam I’m perfectly fine with, right now it’s just the green. I do know that sunlight is on the green side of BBL, but I also tried the Optisolis out on some patches of dirt and leaves last night, and it didn’t seem to be too sunlight-looking. A lot of that might be the ghastly appearance of just having lower lux on target though. I’ll get to compare better today though.

I always thought I liked sunlight too but later realized that sunlight is slightly above the BBL and is greenish compared to my A and D tinted Cree emitters. I guess the high lux from sunlight makes even above the bbl tint look pleasant and warm. At night time so far I find the ROT66 with 219B 9080 with much below the BBL 4500k on turbo most reminiscent to warm afternoon sunlight. Above the BBL 5000k and 5700k lights make vegetation or anything look very gloomy and depressing.

twisted raven
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Would be very interested in Maukka’s numbers of the Jetusolis.

maukka
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I tested a couple Jetusolis. The 5000K ones were very tightly grouped.

twisted raven
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That does at least confirm my subjective impressions that it was a little cool of 5000k. I actually prefer that, as it puts it closer to sunlight than not.

Overcast day, so can’t compare patches of sunlight to the Optisolis yet. Sad

twisted raven
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Got a chance to compare the 5k Optisolis to midday sunlight. Tested on red bricks, mud and leaves, bark, white printer paper and much more.

The optisolis is slightly warmer, which is a given, but it is definitely slightly greener than sunlight to my eyes. I will put a filter on it.

clemence
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twisted raven wrote:
Got a chance to compare the 5k Optisolis to midday sunlight. Tested on red bricks, mud and leaves, bark, white printer paper and much more.

The optisolis is slightly warmer, which is a given, but it is definitely slightly greener than sunlight to my eyes. I will put a filter on it.

So far I only hear excessive green tint Jetusolis from you. I think Jetusolis is not the right choice for you. Better go with JetuE21A for more traditional and well accepted tint flavour. I can upgrade it to JetuE21A if you want. PM me if you’re interested.

- Clemence

twisted raven
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Thanks for the offer. It doesn’t take much to put a filter on it, and I like the idea that the Optisolis fills out the cyan region. I ordered the Optisolis just to have a benchmark for this kind of ultra high cri lighting. I don’t think the lee filter will degrade the cyan part of the spectrum.

I already have my ROT66 219B SW45K R9080 and ROT66 SST20 4000k + 804 filter for pretty lighting.

g_damian
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Got mine Jetusolis P9 5000K Smile

Here is beam shot of: Jetusolis 5000K (right), E21A sm503 (left), Sofirn C01 Yuji 5600K (top):

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clemence wrote:
clemence wrote:
Just for fun Quiz!

Which one has the highest CRI?

ANSWER:

1. Maukka Calibrated Convoy S2 @medium mode(Cree XML2)
CCT = 6497K
CRI = 74,8
R9 = -11,2
Duv = 0,0012

2. Maukka Calibrated BLF-348 (Nichia 219C)
CCT = 5025K
CRI = 92,5
R9 = 84,4
Duv = 0,0038

3. Jetue21a at 230mA (Nichia E21A sm503 R9080)
CCT = 5333K at 700mA
CRI = 97
R9 = 85
Duv = -0,0011 at 700mA

4. Jetusolis at 230mA (Nichia Optisolis sm503 Rfc00)
CCT = 4852K at 65mA
CRI = 99
R9 = 93
Duv = 0,002 at 65mA

I was curious, so I ran this image through my color-averaging brightness-normalizer script. It makes each individual pixel as bright as possible while staying true to the original tint, which makes it easier to compare tints.

ma tumba
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I know that this is mostly a tint snob thread, but I would also like to praise the choice of the host. This tiny twisty is incredibly handy an the beam profile from the e21a/stock tir is incredible. My wife who really hates all and each of my flashlights, just took this one from me and uses it daily.

ma tumba
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Just wanted to share a useful mod of my e21a version.

I replaced the supplied TIR optics by an aspheric lens which I extracted from a cheap ebay aaa zoomie called skywolfeye ($2.99 or so). Had to trim the lens a little bit but it is almost the right size. Will need to blacken the white gasket to completely eliminate the stray light, but even now I have a great uniform circular beam. An aaa version of McGizmo Sundrop. Very happy and will order some Jets with higher cct

SKV89
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Received my 2700k and 5000k Optisolis JetU from Maukka a few days ago. It is actually alot brighter than I expected for Optisolis and AAA. Way brighter than the Sofirn C01 and E01vn. R9 appears a slight bit higher than the Yuji but it’s hard to compare 90+ cri emitters. Personally I still like the E21A 9080 more because the tint is much more rosy. However, the Optisolis is more of a sunlight simulator. I find the 5000k Optisolis tint and color rendering about identical to daylight on a cloudy day.

clemence
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This is why I only use cool white high CRI for working (cooking included). Especially for cooking, warm white just doesn’t work for me.

Bachelor’s favourite breakfast, in this case it’s my brunchner.
What are they: new palm cooking oil, freshly cut potatoes (unpeeled), fully submerged in deep a fried pan (~150-180°C) for about 10 mnutes, 2pcs Bernardi chicken sausages (12cm each), Ayam brand canned beans in light tomato sauce, freshly ground black pepper and some salt sprinkles, Maestro mayonnaise mixed with French’s mustard sauce (Added them later). Usually I use fresh half cooked fried mushrooms chops instead of canned beans, but ran out of them.
Served on my mom’s porcelain plate she bought in 1955.

It’s just a smartphone camera, mind the quality (and slight glare from the oily lens)

[Clemence]

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clemence wrote:
This is why I only use cool white high CRI for working (cooking included). Especially for cooking, warm white just doesn’t work for me.

Bachelor’s favourite breakfast, in this case it’s my brunchner.
What are they: new palm cooking oil, freshly cut potatoes (unpeeled), fully submerged in deep a fried pan (~150-180°C) for about 10 mnutes, 2pcs Bernardi chicken sausages (12cm each), Ayam brand canned beans in light tomato sauce, freshly ground black pepper and some salt sprinkles, Maestro mayonnaise mixed with French’s mustard sauce (Added them later). Usually I use fresh half cooked fried mushrooms chops instead of canned beans, but ran out of them.
Served on my mom’s porcelain plate she bought in 1955.

[Clemence]

During kitchen work, I mostly use my 4×sm503-D220-L2 modded Skilhunt H03 headlamp – it is especially useful, when I want to determine, how mildly I want to roast/fry sliced onion on oil.

ma tumba
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It is actually a very interesting point. Generally, I would agree with Clemence that, the “natural” tint would be the 6500, which is pretty close to that on overcast day. But on the other hand, the most important thing with cooking is that the cct is consistent over time. So if I for example have cooked under incand lights only for years, I d rather not go to a very different cct

virencelights
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so would E21A cooking look too “Clinical” – maybe?

Virence Custom Built; ArmyTek Viking Pro E21A 6500k 9080 Quadtrix, Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 9080 5700k, Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

clemence
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Darryl, it’s not about the looks. It’s about how I can judge if what I see is correct according to my memory set. Cool white has the most complete spectrum coverage with higher average peaks.
If an object can only reflects certain wavelenght it will looks black in the absence of that particular spectrum. For objects with wide wavelenght reflectance, different spectrum ratios will shows different colors too.
A good example is blue color in nature. It’s very rare because in nature, blue is the combination of several different reflected wavelenght. There’s a rare blue winged butterfly with prism like micro scales that makes it looks blue. The individual scale itself is actually colorless. Polar bear hair is actually transparent too, not white.

[Clemence]

mmalive
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The food picture is making me hungry.

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clemence wrote:

It’s just a smartphone camera, mind the quality (and slight glare from the oily lens)

[Clemence]

First picture look like a good picture. But second picture, I can feel that the plate is right in front of me.

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mmalive wrote:
The food picture is making me hungry.

+1
clemence
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There’s more, wait…. let me finish my cooking first. I will have baby fishes for my dinner tonight. Stay tuned (hungry)…

[Clemence]

clemence
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OK, here’s my dinner’s menu today

Tenggiri’s (spanish mackerel) eggs, fresh chopped button mushrooms, (accidentally) freeze dried garlic, oregano and salt sprinkles. All sauteed in pure coconut (not palm) oil for less than 5 minutes.
Then served with multi grain rice (normal rice + a little Kongbap mix) and snake fish floss for a little sweetness taste. Cheap, easy to cook, and satisfying. I tend to add as little as possible seasoning to keep the original taste of the ingredients.

Click if you’re hungry

It tasted sooooooooo damn good! Especially after a full week unable to eat properly (only slurry foods once a day). I had severe toothache from a not-so-wise wisdom teeth inflammation. I had it removed two days ago. Supposed to do it 30 years ago.

EDIT:
Conclusions:
- If you don’t have high CRI lighting, then warm white does a better job than cool white
- If you want to “mask” the appearance of something in your food, warm white can do it
- High CRI cool white while not too pleasant to our eyes in the long run, is very beneficial for chefs. Serving them under high CRI 5000K – 6500K will shows the true colors of any “colorful” foods.
- warm white ambient lighting with high CRI cool white table lights can be used to preserve the cozy environment while having an inviting meals.

Happy drooling…
[Clemence]

clemence
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Friends,

I received lots of emails to put JetuE21A and Jetusolis back to the store. I will try to explain, why I didn’t want to for these reasons:
- I couldn’t get good price from JB for small quantity orders (100 pcs).
- Shipping plus high import duty tax from China to Indonesia add some 44% extra cost
- 4,4% + $0,3 Paypal charge for item price (shipping included)
- Very bad Paypal conversion rate from USD to IDR (additional 0,5% losses)

For $11,22 including shipping you can get Jet-U via Aliexpress. How can I beat that price? I got $11,8 (including import duty and shipping from china – Indonesia). I charged $15 (Jetusolis) and $20 (JetuE21A) for modification service. If you think it’s expensive then think about my sleepless hours developing this built from scratch. Also gathering and ordering all those required components.
EDIT: all newer Jet-Us are GLUED. I destroyed all those OEM XPG2 trying to remove it while keeping the OEM lens unharmed.

Then add another $8-9 to ship them to the customers. It’s a no go, too expensive for the majority of us.

But some suggested me to at least open an interest thread for Jetusolis/JetuE21A GB mod. With enough participants we might be able to lower the cost. It’s also a good idea to arrange local GB from people live in nearby areas to further save shipping cost. If we can reach enough quantity the price will be lower. I probably can slightly lower the modding cost for larger batch run.

Upgrade kit is the ideal choice, especially for most BLF modders. It’s cheaper and more fun. This is what I plan to sell instead a finished product (also easier on my ends too). The same applies to Jetbeam RRT01 case too. But not everyone likes modding…

So, let me know what you think about it.

[Clemence]

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