WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

It’s not a bad thing in this case, but too many derailed topics will confuse people and blur the subject.

[Clemence]

I’m very happy with my new TCR1, just swapped the emitter. Considering adding a trit dot to it.

Whooooo… cool picture! :+1:
Your multi tool compliments RRT01 styling.

[Clemence]

Now you made me reconsider about getting one :o

Thnx guys. I am starting to like it better also, even thinking of ice blue trits.

As it is build like a tank, I thought the bare aluminium would suit it. Real tool now.

I have a RRT 01 Flat White on way.
looking for a second RRT 01 to compliment/back it up.
any suggestions ?.
HCRI is a must.

5k E21A?.

thanks.

I was looking for a good led for my RRT-01, it has to have good output but also a good tint 4000Knor less and great CRI, and the die size is not important. The output requirement limited me to LH351D and XP-L Hi but of both I have never seen the combination of good tint&CRI. Then I thought about the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s that I still have a bunch of, they have ugly green tint and the rainbow beam but perhaps slicing/dicing one would help. So I did:

It did not work out perfectly, the tint of the hotspot was 3600K, and just 89CRI, with R9 only just under 50. The green was gone and now only slightly above the BBL but it was still not great. Furthermore the rainbow was better but not completely gone, and there were a few more beam artifacts. The output was very good however, the same as the cool white XP-L Hi: just under 700 lumen.

So now I swapped in a SST-20 3000K, and am still not happy. The Jetbeam reflector is pretty unforgiving and still shows artifacts in the beam, faint rings where I do not want them.

Next try is a sliced LH351D.

Btw, you can get to the led in a conventional way, just screw off the bezel and remove lens, o-ring, reflector and centerpiece. Only con is (un)soldering the led wires inside a deep hole.

The never ending search for the best led.

I agree that the sst-20 is a bit ringy. If I remember correctly it was a bit better with the 45 degree rotated centering ring I had, but not sure. Maybe I’ll check it if I have it open again.

Where the rings also there with the original xpl-hi? I never really tried it.

No, the original led gave a quite perfect beam. I’m trying to find that LH351D I should have somewhere….

So did you strip it with the usual? Like drain cleaner etc? Thar looks really nice. I’ll probably leave it stock. If/when I drop it I’ll strip it.

Found it, my last one. Sliced it to close to the die and put it in the RRT-01, its fourth led today :person_facepalming:

And now I’m happy. The beam is less ringy (but not 100% perfect), and while the SST-20 led had some tint-nuances inside the hotspot, this hotspot has a nice even tint.

While the 3000K SST-20 gave just 420 lumen, the output is back up to 615 lumen.

The tint of the hotspot:
At ~20lm low mode: CCT=3500K, duv +0.0021, CRI95 R9=80
At highest mode: CCT=3600K, duv –0.0001, CRI93 R9=70

So the tint quality is very good, much better than the sliced XP-L2, but of course slightly below the SST-20.

I think this is the best led I can think of for this nice flashlight, but there may be better ones in the future.

Yes, Just drain cleaner and a brush.

Indeed probably best to wait till you scratch your light. The stock anodising was quite nice, but I just had to do something with the light.

Btw. The slots work well with 1.5x6mm and 1.5x5mm trits, so 11mm total.

Too bad on short on 1.5x6mm. Time for another mixglo.com order…

Nice Djozz. Im staying with the sst. As I really like the tint and don’t mind the rings in use, but I might try the LH351D in it one day.

Djozz, what was the led before you sliced it. I see you tested it at about 3500k after the slice but what was it before, 4000k?
Or did I miss the info somewhere.
I’m using the 4000k from AEDe goup buy second batch. Just wondering if I should slice mine.

When I have a light that I like, I want to know a lot about it. I measured some currents on the lowest modes:

*With the ring clicked off: 27 micro-amps (4.5 years to drain your 1100mAh 18350)

*With the ring clicked on but no light yet: still 27 micro-amps

*Once it emits the slightest bit of light: a base-level of 9.7 milli-amps appears, going up when ramping up. So the max runtime, however subsubsublumen low you go, will never exceed about 5 days.

So when everything is asleep the current is really low, no need to mechanically lockout the flashlight (which is just as well because there is no easy way to do that). Once the circuitry wakes up it consumes 9.7mA on top of what goes to the led, which is not the lowest I have seen, i.e. the BLF A6 circuitry consumes 2.6 mA.

Edit: current on max, with LH351D led if that matters, is now 3.3A

It was a 4000K 90CRI LH351D from led4power. I have had that led from the first AEDe group buy too and I did not notice a different tint between the AEDe and led4power version, (which was an impression, I could not actually measure tints at the time).

I sliced that led before, and mind that slicing costs about 20% output.

So are those slots too narrow for 2mm? I was thinking if it can take those, just boring out a little at both ends to get it up to 10.5 mm (a little room for adhesive buffer) would work. But if not, it would require some special apparatus to bore out a wider straight line across the whole slot.