Emisar D18 introduction




THANK YOU AEDe!

Whoa! Thanks a bunch!

Thanks Tom Tom,

I started with Jason suggestion on that guys youtube videos which are helpful in a practical diagnostic sense. I then took your advice and checked out some online free ee lectures where I stumbled across an old school one from a MIT EE engineering prof. lol WAY over my head but I like it. lol makes me wish I did go the scientific route in school instead of business. Nevertheless I might just learn about what you guys are talking about one day after all!

Thanks for the additional link. The EE course is vast compared to the more specific information I’m trying to grasp right now like the flashlight components

That’s a great idea, actually. Complex, I’m sure. But I like it haha

I’ll be bummed if there are no pogo pins, it seems like they are not that hard to add, and they add a whole lot of functionality.

Or even if you could just tip out the driver like on the Q8 to flash the chip…super easy!

FWIW, the variability of the ATtiny 85 (and 25), internal temperatures could be calibrated out quite simply, by selecting a calibration mode, turning off, soaking the torch at a specified temperature (ice bath 0 C, 20C household ambient, 70 C in fan oven, even boiling water 100C). Turn on again, sensor value measured, offset calculated, stored. Before anything has warmed up, confusing things.

Preferably done in manufacturing, before customer gets them and has to mess about with it themselves.

Sounds similar to M43 description.

SOP in automotive stuff, where we used sensors using base-spreading resistance, such as the KTY13 series from Siemens. Now Infineon. One of these on the MCPCB could transform things. Maybe not even needing another MCU pin, muxed in with something else.

Cheap as chips, very precise and stable with a 3-point calibration and curve-fit. Single point cal. good enough here.

Narsil lets you blink out the raw MCU sensor value and apply the offset yourself when setting up your personal preference for thermal control. Good feature. Helped me set up my Q8 with some scientific method, instead of just suck-it-and see.

Precise thermal control is essential to manage these thermally limited torches to their best, I’m not sure we are any where near there yet with the current approaches.

Re: firmware version. No we don’t need obscure build version stuff. Something like 4 digits, w x y and z.

W = base version. Starting at 0 for pre-production/prototype code.

X = revision level, 0 for prototypes, start at 1 for production releases.

Y = hardware build standard applicable. Same idea.

Z = detailed hardware standard applicable, such as tuning for different LED choices.

When signalling 0, make it ten blinks, so it’s clear that you have got pre-release code.

Put a QR code in the paperwork or engraved somewhere on the torch, linking to a model-specific site with the details:

Source code. With clear commenting.

Hex files, with checksums.

Change lists. Bugs fixed, known bugs not fixed, new bugs found. Features added, features removed, UI changes.

Much as PC manufacturers do when releasing their BIOS updates. User can decide whether to apply them or not.

Alpha code releases for the bold, explaining what things are being tried out. Stability warning. Also coded 0.

Feedback method to report issues.

May not suit “fast and light” coders for whom this is tedious. Or are “output only”.

Personally I would like to see torches only released at a solid stable tested 1.1.1.1 with no compelling reason to consider updating.

Then there is the question of regression testing, and how thoroughly it is done …

Manufacturers might not like this, e.g. customers receive V 1.1, but learn 1.2 is current and fixed some important things, so want it instead. Distributors with lots of 1.1 stock to sell, wanting to send it back to be brought up to date.

Meanwhile manufacturers have moved on to the next thing, and aren’t interested in updating old products that still work well enough. Leave that to the enthusiasts to figure out themselves.

Not to mention useful in manufacture, to allow last minute firmware installation.

If really not there, as in some previous ones, I can only speculate that the driver on this one no longer shows the hand of e.g. Lexel or Texas_Avenger consultation.

Perhaps a decision to copy the proven base design and have it done elsewhere. Now that he has learned enough to have a go.

Today the hardware, maybe tomorrow the firmware ?

ISTM that Hank likes to plough his own furrow, and do things his own way.

His business is making unique torches, to sell to consumers as-is. Take it or leave it.

Our educated input perhaps listened to, and desire for mod-ability, add lustre, but are not necessarily a primary consideration, possibly a distraction.

Web searches when researching mostly lead here, and are generally very favourable, that’s surely worth cultivating.

Nevertheless we also contribute to his sales and his bottom-line, perhaps in a small way, as well as free beta-testing. A fine line to walk.

I have yet to see you design and make a driver available Tom Tom, supposition and hyperbole are fun to discuss but where is your provenance? Why do you waste so much time telling us what is wrong instead of producing your supposed right? In the context of our old saying here, pictures or it never happened… or more simply, show me.

Ordered an XP-L HI v2 5D from Hank for $50 extra! Can’t wait to try it. Hopefully the tint is as good as the XP-L HI 5D in the D4S. The XP-L Hi 5D batch in the M43 I got wasn’t that rosy.

If the E07 with XP-L HI can make 7k real lumens, I wonder if the D18 with XP-L HI can make 18k lumens. :smiley:

I’m looking forward to see the initial impressions and reviews on this light.

I love that Hank is willing to offer custom versions at a very reasonable upcharge.

How? Did you PM him on here for that? That’s exactly what I want as well. 5D is 5000k isn’t it? That’s what both my D4 and D4S are and I love that tint

Closer to 3700K-4000K.


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I should have a review up shortly after a production model arrives. I can’t claim to be an impartial reviewer though.

Nice :slight_smile: Hope to see this as an option :slight_smile:

Yeap. I have to agree with skv89. Xpl 5000k tint is so nice on my d4s.

I don’t know if it’s a good idea to post a link that might take sales away from the OP, Original Poster.

There might be rules against it.

I think most folks can find Skylumens website without a link.

Actually 5D tint is 4000k. 3A/3D is 5000k and those look great too especially for daytime use when my eyes are adjusted to daylight. However, at night time when my eyes are adjusted to 3000k room lighting, 4000k 5D looks a lot less blue than 5000k so I chose 5D. You have to email Hank for the XPL-HI option. He probably don’t have enough of the A or D tint binned XP-L HIs to offer them as a standard option.

He might not right now…. But after you letting the oh, so beautiful cat out of the silk bag, Hank will be along with other emitters, as an option. I myself Hank will buy 2 each of XPL-HI V3, 2 each of XPL-HI 5D.