Thanks but gChart did the heavy lifting. FWIW, here's a trick I used for this mod that has helped with similar mods involving complicated wire paths. I wrapped a piece of shrink tubing around the LED lead wire ends before pulling the electronics module out to solder. !{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/tvvwsMf.jpg! The tubing gives me enough slack to work on the driver and I can simply pull the lead wires back through afterwards without having to thread inside the tube.
Replaced the XPL HI 5D I had in my modded Sipik 58 with LED Lenser style optic with an Oslon flat from International Outdoors.
The FET driver proved to be too much for the emitter to handle even when powered by just by an ICR 14500. Ended up swapping out the Oslon and replacing it with an SST20 4000K 95 CRI. Definitely better than the Oslon, but not sure if it’s any better than the XPL HI.
The higher binned SST-20's, like the 5000K or 6500K, should do better than a XPL HI V2 but don't think the 95 CRI's will. Haven't seen direct evidence of this, but the #'s Hank has on his Emisar web page listings show some of this, given the optics/power setup.
Well, the SST-20s do have 30% more candela/lumen compared to the XP-L HI.
Meaning: SST-20 65CRI = Tighter and more intense hotspot compared to the XP-L HI, meaning you get more throw. SST-20 95CRI = Tighter, but less intense hotspot, meaning you will get about the same throw as the XP-L HI.
Hey nothing fancy for me just pulled the Osram from my new Tool and popped a N219B behind the TIR.
And the Osram made its way into a single mode loaner light
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.
For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.
For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look
Opened my brand new GT Micro and put an Osram Black Flat.
Went from 40kCd with the stock XP-L HI to 105kCd !
No need to say I LOVE my new pocket thrower !!!
Nice result! Stock driver? Is the 14500 limiting it enough so that excess current isn’t an issue? (edit: I was thinking of the White Flat, but I’ll let the question stand) And looks like not quite enough room for a 16mm MCPCB?
Too bad the D1 doesn’t focus the White Flat very well… that would make for a sweet pocket thrower (having the extra capacity, but similar footprint).
That's a sic amount of throw for such a little light. Whatever they did, I think they got the reflector right on this one. I got an opened Micro and 3 black flats laying around. Hhmmm...
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.
For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look
Nice, I have been thinking about it.
Two questions:
*did you use potassium cyanide in the process?
*do you have any idea of the thickness of the layer?
1. He probably used potassium cyanide, yes. Unless he used a silver nitrate sodium hydroxyde solution, with silver nitrate, ammonia and sodium thiosulfate.
It does work very well, albeit slower compared to the potassium cyanide method.
2. I don’t know. What’s the surface area of the electrodes used, the current, and the surface of the A01 itself?
I have been wanting to do some nickel plating, but I’m still waiting for my nickel sheet to do it.
Sorry if I answered in his place. Bad habit of mine.
Nice, I have been thinking about it.
Two questions:
*did you use potassium cyanide in the process?
*do you have any idea of the thickness of the layer?
Nothing so exotic/toxic. It was a physical-chemical application (electroless) as opposed to an electro-chemical application using a mixture of Sodium Chloride and Calcium Carbonate (reducing agent) and Silver Chloride (silver source). The pre-mix can be purchased commercially from Cool-Amp here.
As opposed to electro-plating which typically runs 5-10+ microns thick, this physical transfer process only deposits 1-2 microns. Just enough for a protective layer, good enough to protect and patina, not nearly enough to protect from repeated physical handling.
djozz wrote:
…used potassium cyanide,…
Sorry BlueSwordM, my anodizing and plating days are behind me. Haven’t had any thing to do with passivating or cyanide baths in over 30 yrs.
At the risk of raising more heckles from copper fans, here’s another -
Thanks for the answer. I may try the potassium cyanide method at some point but it may be difficult to find the stuff and then convince the owner that I’m not going to kill myself.
Opened my brand new GT Micro and put an Osram Black Flat.
Went from 40kCd with the stock XP-L HI to 105kCd !
No need to say I LOVE my new pocket thrower !!!
Nice result! Stock driver? Is the 14500 limiting it enough so that excess current isn’t an issue? (edit: I was thinking of the White Flat, but I’ll let the question stand) And looks like not quite enough room for a 16mm MCPCB?
Too bad the D1 doesn’t focus the White Flat very well… that would make for a sweet pocket thrower (having the extra capacity, but similar footprint).
Stock driver, yes. My 14500 is a bit old so only manage to push 3,2A with the stock emitter/driver. Stayed the same with the Black Flat, but it’s enough really !
The Black Flat has to be fed with the same amount of current as the White flat, so the sweet spot is at about 4,5A.
The stock MCPCB is DTP copper, with a 3535 footprint and 14mm in diameter. 16mm won’t fit.
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
Two days ago I received, late at the party, my Fireflies E07 from Neal, black, purple aux leds, SST-20 4000K. It appeared the updated version with slightly bevelled edges.
It is as beautiful as in any of the pictures I had seen, and an extremely handy size. And my first Anduril light, still have to play around with all the options. The SST-20 works very nicely in this optic, it makes a pleasantly distinct and, for this size little TIR’s, reasonably narrow hotspot.
To swap a few leds I opened it up, and although the optic had all its legs, it was not perfect inside: one screw completely worn out (these screws are made of very soft steel) and extremely short ledwires, I had to (un)solder very carefully to not strip any further of the insulation and risk shorts. The ledboard sat completely flat on the shelf and there was enough thermal gooey.
To improve the tint I swapped 3 of the 4000K leds for 2700K ones from KD (their so-called JA3 tint that measures exactly like their JC1 tint ). I hoped to end up at my favorite CCT, 3500K, and up/under the BBL.
This is the result.
First for comparison the tint of the original 4000K SST-20 (measured from the Sofirn C01S, same size TIR, forgot to measure the stock E07)
Great tint IMO, but with a duv of 0.0031 it is a bit above the BBL and it has the well-known slightly green hue without any rosiness.
Then the tint from the 2700K led, as measured in the hotspot of a reflector (should be comparable)
And here’s the result for the mix, almost precisely where you expect it (E07 at 170 lumen, so about 600 mA distributed over the 7 leds):
Almost on top of the BBL and also by visual inspection a really pleasant balanced tint (although not pink, but I do not appreciate too pink tints).
To my surprise this mixed flashlight has a consistent tint going to higher outputs. Here it is at 1300 lumen (default top of the ramp):
And at turbo 4000+ lumen:
All in all, I call this succesfull and I have added a very nice flashlight to my collection that was immediately useful yesterday when I went out in the dark with BLF-member Nicolaas for some thrower beamshots. It lit up the trail very nicely, although at turbo, the 3300K is a bit too warm to my liking (on all other levels, 3300K is perfect).
That’s awesome. Do you have any idea what the turbo current is on the S1R? I am planning on swapping the emitter to the SST-20 3000K or 4000K, maybe to a Luxeon V2 4000K if the output suffers too much from the high CRI.
Not totally sure, someone more knowledgeable could probably chime in. My best guess is somewhere between 3-5A. The Olight 16350 the S1R II comes with is a 550mAh battery rated for a 10C discharge, so peak output for the battery should be around 5A at full charge. The output isn’t 1000 lumens with the LH351D, but it’s not terribly far off judging by eye. I have no real means to measure current or output.
Brought my clamp meter from work this weekend and I tested the current on 3 of my S1R Baton II lights.
Low = 60mA
Medium = 200mA
High = 1.6A
Turbo = 3A
The lowest Turbo reading I got was 2.93A with a relatively discharged battery. Hope it’s a good reference for those who plan on swapping emitters.
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
Well i dont touch the factory parts just make new ones to add to it
You... I like you.
Gotta go buy heat shrink tube...
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
Replaced the XPL HI 5D I had in my modded Sipik 58 with LED Lenser style optic with an Oslon flat from International Outdoors.
The FET driver proved to be too much for the emitter to handle even when powered by just by an ICR 14500. Ended up swapping out the Oslon and replacing it with an SST20 4000K 95 CRI. Definitely better than the Oslon, but not sure if it’s any better than the XPL HI.
The higher binned SST-20's, like the 5000K or 6500K, should do better than a XPL HI V2 but don't think the 95 CRI's will. Haven't seen direct evidence of this, but the #'s Hank has on his Emisar web page listings show some of this, given the optics/power setup.
Soooo beamshot ? kCd ?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Well, the SST-20s do have 30% more candela/lumen compared to the XP-L HI.
Meaning:
SST-20 65CRI = Tighter and more intense hotspot compared to the XP-L HI, meaning you get more throw.
SST-20 95CRI = Tighter, but less intense hotspot, meaning you will get about the same throw as the XP-L HI.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I dont have anything to measure output and it got light before i could get beam shot. Tonight will take some beam shots.
Looks pretty darn good to me! Will be looking for those beamshots…
Hey
nothing fancy for me just pulled the Osram from my new Tool and popped a N219B behind the TIR.
And the Osram made its way into a single mode loaner light
- Paul
I managed to open my Sofirn SP36, as written in the SP36-Thread
I used a bended nail and the driver popped out after the first hammering.
More pictures
Teaser Picture:
“
!{width:80%}https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4674_tlf.29743/full!...
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.
For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look
Seeking the light.
Ohhhh pretty. I love the soft shine of silver.
Seeking the light.
…and would likely smell as bad (eggy/sulfury).
I’ve got actual silverware, and not only is it a pain to keep polished all the time, but even spotlessly clean, it still has a bit of a stank to it.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Opened my brand new GT Micro and put an Osram Black Flat.
Went from 40kCd with the stock XP-L HI to 105kCd !
No need to say I LOVE my new pocket thrower !!!
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Nice result! Stock driver? Is the 14500 limiting it enough so that excess current isn’t an issue? (edit: I was thinking of the White Flat, but I’ll let the question stand) And looks like not quite enough room for a 16mm MCPCB?
Too bad the D1 doesn’t focus the White Flat very well… that would make for a sweet pocket thrower (having the extra capacity, but similar footprint).
Cool, congrats on that GT Micro build. I kinda wanted to be one of the first to do that but of course I still don’t have a Micro GT…
Maybe I can be the first to put 7 White Flat’s in an E07…
That's a sic amount of throw for such a little light. Whatever they did, I think they got the reflector right on this one. I got an opened Micro and 3 black flats laying around. Hhmmm...
Installed a TC20 driver and xhp70 mcpcb in a Catapult V6. It’s a very straightforward mod, I made a custom centering ring with a 3D printer
It now throws +60.000cd. What a beast!
I’d love to try a mtg2 but I can’t find a mcpcb bigger than 26mm diameter
Some beamshots of L6 ashperic doesnt look right.
Edit: the spacer needs to be shorter and adjustable the same size lens are slightly different.
Nice, I have been thinking about it.
Two questions:
*did you use potassium cyanide in the process?
*do you have any idea of the thickness of the layer?
link to djozz tests
1. He probably used potassium cyanide, yes. Unless he used a silver nitrate sodium hydroxyde solution, with silver nitrate, ammonia and sodium thiosulfate.
It does work very well, albeit slower compared to the potassium cyanide method.
2. I don’t know. What’s the surface area of the electrodes used, the current, and the surface of the A01 itself?
I have been wanting to do some nickel plating, but I’m still waiting for my nickel sheet to do it.
Sorry if I answered in his place. Bad habit of mine.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
link to djozz tests
Wait, how did you know about potassium cyanide silver plating?
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
As opposed to electro-plating which typically runs 5-10+ microns thick, this physical transfer process only deposits 1-2 microns. Just enough for a protective layer, good enough to protect and patina, not nearly enough to protect from repeated physical handling.
Sorry BlueSwordM, my anodizing and plating days are behind me. Haven’t had any thing to do with passivating or cyanide baths in over 30 yrs.At the risk of raising more heckles from copper fans, here’s another -
Seeking the light.
Thanks for the answer. I may try the potassium cyanide method at some point but it may be difficult to find the stuff and then convince the owner that I’m not going to kill myself.
link to djozz tests
Stock driver, yes. My 14500 is a bit old so only manage to push 3,2A with the stock emitter/driver. Stayed the same with the Black Flat, but it’s enough really !
The Black Flat has to be fed with the same amount of current as the White flat, so the sweet spot is at about 4,5A.
The stock MCPCB is DTP copper, with a 3535 footprint and 14mm in diameter. 16mm won’t fit.
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Two days ago I received, late at the party, my Fireflies E07 from Neal, black, purple aux leds, SST-20 4000K. It appeared the updated version with slightly bevelled edges.
It is as beautiful as in any of the pictures I had seen, and an extremely handy size. And my first Anduril light, still have to play around with all the options. The SST-20 works very nicely in this optic, it makes a pleasantly distinct and, for this size little TIR’s, reasonably narrow hotspot.
To swap a few leds I opened it up, and although the optic had all its legs, it was not perfect inside: one screw completely worn out (these screws are made of very soft steel) and extremely short ledwires, I had to (un)solder very carefully to not strip any further of the insulation and risk shorts. The ledboard sat completely flat on the shelf and there was enough thermal gooey.
To improve the tint I swapped 3 of the 4000K leds for 2700K ones from KD (their so-called JA3 tint that measures exactly like their JC1 tint
). I hoped to end up at my favorite CCT, 3500K, and up/under the BBL.
This is the result.
First for comparison the tint of the original 4000K SST-20 (measured from the Sofirn C01S, same size TIR, forgot to measure the stock E07)
Great tint IMO, but with a duv of 0.0031 it is a bit above the BBL and it has the well-known slightly green hue without any rosiness.
Then the tint from the 2700K led, as measured in the hotspot of a reflector (should be comparable)
And here’s the result for the mix, almost precisely where you expect it (E07 at 170 lumen, so about 600 mA distributed over the 7 leds):
Almost on top of the BBL and also by visual inspection a really pleasant balanced tint (although not pink, but I do not appreciate too pink tints).
To my surprise this mixed flashlight has a consistent tint going to higher outputs. Here it is at 1300 lumen (default top of the ramp):
And at turbo 4000+ lumen:
All in all, I call this succesfull and I have added a very nice flashlight to my collection that was immediately useful yesterday when I went out in the dark with BLF-member Nicolaas for some thrower beamshots. It lit up the trail very nicely, although at turbo, the 3300K is a bit too warm to my liking (on all other levels, 3300K is perfect).
link to djozz tests
Brought my clamp meter from work this weekend and I tested the current on 3 of my S1R Baton II lights.
Low = 60mA
Medium = 200mA
High = 1.6A
Turbo = 3A
The lowest Turbo reading I got was 2.93A with a relatively discharged battery. Hope it’s a good reference for those who plan on swapping emitters.
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
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