Lumintop GT micro

Sounds like someone got a bit overzealous with the solder and it is causing a short someplace. Only way to know for sure is to pull the light apart but that is not super easy.

Thanks, I’ll have to tear it down when I get a moment

Got my GT micro two days ago. Love the form factor and that beautiful reflector. It will get a narrower led though, a White Flat (for max throw and wows) or dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D (for much better tint), not decided yet.

I haven’t seen a de-domed Cree emitter that had better tint than the White Flat. Not hot de-domed nor chemical de-domed and certainly not anything that started life in 3D trim. Not even as a result of Vinh’s cherry picking… one of those is sitting on my work bench gathering dust even now, pulled ftom a TK61Vn due to it’s sub-par tint.

Of course, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure…

Got it apart, inspected and everything looks good physically. Even did a factory reset but it is still not working correctly, turns itself on sometimes too

Almost has to be the reflector touching the negative lead OR a split in the negative leads insulation allowing it to ground out. (Look for this where the lead comes through the emitter shelf and bends to reach the pad.)

As an aside, operational instability can easily come from excess pressure by the switch boot on an e-switch.

Yep thats what mine does. I shall try loosening the head a bit and see that makes a difference.

The Black Flat has a slightly warmer tint than the White Flat and is hitting 105kCd in my GTµ
Plus, they are cheaper

Yay, got mine today! Well, delivered this past Friday but just got it and am playing with it today.

Quick question, though. The beam…

Is it supposed to be nicely focused, well-defined hotspot and faint but uniform spill? Or is it supposed to have 4 faint “petals” and pretty bright and “leaky” corona?

Based on the hotspot, it seems well-focused, bright circle, faint bluish dot in the center, but the corona seems awfully bright. Even my silly cheap-ass C8 clones have a sharp hotspot and uniform faint spill. Same with my P30 (reflector size more comparable).

Love the color, so ain’t complaining about that, just not sure about the focus, whether a little shaving this or shimming that might help.

The "faint bluish dot in the middle" doesn't sound good. I've only seem that on a bad XPL HI (damage). Some pics, but auto white balance, etc. - tints don't actually look that extreme.

EDC05C on the left, NW micro on the right:

NW Micro alone:

Yeah, the bottom pic is kinda what mine looks like, a “leaky” corona vs a crisp well-defined hotspot vs spill.

I’ve seen the bluish center dot on quite a few lights, no damage, just the light-profile of the emitter vs shape of the reflector, I imagine. Very faint/subtle, really need to move the beam around vs staring at it to catch it. But that’s always been telltale of a well-focused beam.

Just seemed odd about this beam. Maybe it’s the size of the chip vs size of the reflector, dunno.

I’ve not been able to read the thread just yet but I do have a question concerning Sanyo 14500 batteries, which I’ve searched for but can’t find.

Does the GT Micro have issues with unprotected cells? I get flickering with my Sanyo 14500 battery :S Also, if I knock it lightly it seems to lose contact and switch off.

I didn't notice a problem with my flat top SANYO 14500's but considering there's no driver spring, it's not surprising. Button top, or at least a decent protruding top is what I'd suggest. Maybe cleaning the brass button up with isop. alcohol may help as well.

Hmmm… I just looked at mine & there is plenty of extra room in the battery tube for longer cells.
So if you have a short 14500 there could well be a temporary disconnect if the light is jarred or flickering if the springs are making poor contact.
I just jarred mine on purpose & it “disconnected”.
Hope this helps.

Thank you, that does help. I’ve got some protected 14500s somewhere stashed away - it’s gonna be a task to dig them out but I’m motivated to now.

My windyfire and purple efest unprotecteds will not work. But my Vapcells do work.

Are your WindyFires button top or flat top?

Got it open. Took some poking but the glue seal broke fairly easy. Messed up the LED+ wire so need to replace it.

It's a 2 board design with the FET and 7135 on the lower/contact board. Parts are only on one side of each board.

Can't see much here but that's the 7135 to the right on the lower board. Had some trouble getting it out til I figured it was 2 boards and had to come straight out, more or less, and not tilted.

The good thing is the MCU is on top, easy to reprogram.

The MCPCB is about 14.15 mm in diameter. Looks painted white, possibly over red, and appears to have a gold plating on the bottom. A white paste was used under the MCPCB - nice amount.

The driver is a FET+1 driver.
Here are some more pictures of it, so you don’t need to risk destroying yours:

Open in new tab to see it better…

The MCU really is there for easy access. Glad you noticed it.

Yep, Schoki did a good job with the driver. I also like that he put the MCU on top for easy flashing.