No, sorry. It requires soldering to get the driver out before it can be flashed. Take off the bezel, lens, and optic. Unsolder the LED wires. Unscrew the driver retaining ring. Then the driver should come out where it can be flashed. Repeat everything in reverse to re-assemble.
There isnât really anywhere to put flashing vias, since both surfaces of the driver are really packed with components. It was originally going to have optical programming, but it turns out that would take several hours to transfer a ROM and it would require removing several features to make room.
The more I see of this, the more I like it. Please put me down for a second one. Then I donât have to decide between emitter options, Iâll just get one of each! If it helps, the number for my first one is 1995.
Thanks, teacher. The green isnât great, but as we were saying before, at that low price, it wasnât too much of a risk. Maybe you will like the throw and tint just using higher levels.
Your welcome cabfrank. Yeah, no doubt at this price it was a true deal. A win/win.
And that is exactly what I am going to do, just use the two higher levels. It actually suits me quite well when the âgreen is goneâ.
Even 10% is not horribly bad. But below 10% truly suxâŚ. âto meâ.
Thatâs why I donât like the SST-20 (and LH351D) emitters Iâve tried. I mostly only use low levels, and they donât look good at those levels. Even when doing CCT mixing to pull the tint pinkward, it still looks greenish in the bottom half of the ramp. The FET portion of the ramp looks nice though.
OTOH, itâs a little weird that youâd see much tint shift on a 8x7135 driver. It should have fairly constant tint across all modes except moon, since theyâre all running at the same power with different duty cycles. But I suppose if the pulses have rounded edges instead of being true square waves, youâd still see some tint changes.