What did you mod today?

Sounds like a fun time! I wish I lived near djozz, he keeps liking the same LEDs as me.

Any reason you didn't opt for a White Flat (or other newer LED besides the legendary "old good" XP-G2)?

I agree that accurate measurement is probably not all that critical. However, I think Maukka’s calibration lights add something very useful that you’re overlooking - they make it possible for two people in different countries, with different supplies available and different homebrew integrating devices, to exchange numbers. Previously, every “DB Custom Lumen” may have been perfectly repeatable and totally sufficient for your purposes, but they wouldn’t help in the slightest if I was building something similar and wanted to compare results.

People griping and complaining don’t actually care if you have accurate values for your own use, they just want to have a way to compare without needing to own the same “very large collection of ANSI rated lights” for comparison. It wouldn’t be sufficient to just own one light in common, because of variation between units and batches. But with the unique calibration printoff Maukka provides, his two lights can more or less fill the same niche as your “very large collection”.

Apologies for the unstable thermal response on that one. I wasn’t actually involved in making that particular light, and didn’t get a chance to calibrate it properly. It shouldn’t really be an issue during normal use, but it still bugs me a bit.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy it! :slight_smile:

When I post the decimal numbers it’s not to imply a degree of accuracy, it’s to show I’m not rounding up (or down). That’s the only reason I post it exactly as it came out, just to show no liberties were taken. :wink:

And um, sorry, I don’t know why I even posted all that this morning, really rough night, pulled back muscle spazzing and for whatever reason my stomach decided to do a reboot at around 2AM. Sorry.

This isn’t really a mod… more of an accident… but I found out how a XHP50.2 looks when it’s completely stripped so it has no dome and no phosphor layer. Someone apparently tried to mod this and messed it up, and then returned it as “defective”.

First, in normal lighting:

And here, it’s the same thing except I shined another flashlight into the bezel to brighten things up. The bare diode reacts to white light by making rainbows:

Purdy ain’t it? :smiley: And it’s output color is an amazing blue! :smiley:

I did that test when the XP-G3 came out, MEM and I were wondering… :wink: I actually installed the bare emitter in a zoomie and used it some, pretty neat really but you have to be careful about seeing too much of it or looking directly at it of course. It’s more just blue than it is UV but nonetheless I was careful with how I used it. Got tired of the potential problems after a while and swapped emitters in that zoomie, tossed the die in the can.

I got to thinking about this diffusion panel from the Samsung monitor, there were two of them in there. So I started cutting discs and testing again, 7 turns out to be too much but after some careful placement, placing 3 discs on each end of the P-Trap, with all the satin sides facing the flashlight, my meter now reads almost spot on with the calibrated Convoy S2+! No multiplier! I’m charging up both cells , the small light and the larger one, to test again but it looks like it’s going to work out well right here, 6 panels from the monitor inside the box.

Yep, still bored. :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m tempted to put it into a lightsaber. There are blades called “photon” blades, which are a hollow tube with the entire inside coated in a green phosphor. It’s like the remote phosphor tech used in some LED bulbs, except in this case the entire blade is the “bulb”. To make it work, it needs a particular shade of blue light… which happens to be exactly what this naked XHP50.2 produces. So it would make a very very bright green blade.

Normally they just stick XP-E2 or XQ-E emitters inside, in a royal blue tint… because apparently nobody in the saber industry has realized that they can get a lot more blue light if they just take the top off a white emitter. So if I did this, it would probably be the brightest lightsaber on the planet. Nobody makes them like this.

I’ve used these filters from an old laptop as diffusion film in lights.

Do it Tk! That would be awesome! pics of course… :smiley:

CRX, yeah, well, I’m a little slow on the uptake in some cases (like most times when I’m awake) I ended up with carefully placed discs, 6 of them, and my lightbox reads actual lumens with no math needed. That will be a treat, been using a multiplier for years.
The BLF 348 light measured spot on at 56 lumens, the larger Convoy S2+ that Maukka calibrated at 290.8 shows 288.3 on my meter. No math. I’m not gonna know how to handle it…

The reason is very simple: Djozz still had an old style XP G2 lying around and these can take 5,5A with no problem.
The white flats work on a much lower forward voltage which can cause problems with the driver.
As the TN31 is one the precious few light with magnetic switches I didn;t want to risk the driver.

Also, if you want to make full use of a wavien collar (200% light output) you need to use a dedomed led.
If you use a led with a flat dome (white flat, black flat, XP-L HI, XHP35 HI) the max afficacy you can get out of the led is maybe around 185%.

And yes, having Djozz at just 11Km away is nice, very nice. And he’s a nice guy as well, we get along great.

Cheers,
Nico

Cool DB, it was a laptop that died a couple of years ago so me being me had to take it apart to see if there was any interesting bits I could re-use, tons of wee resistors, screws etc and a big sheet of white film & slightly diffuse transparent polarizing film from the screen.
I actually used a piece of that in the SL.

Here are some pictures going with Nicolaas’ aspheric converted TN42 mod.

I used a precisely sanded to thickness spacer, made of soldered brass rings, clearing the led wires, for the collar to sit on. The spacer was glued to the shelf around the ledboard with Arctic Alumina Adhesive, the collar was precisely centered with the led on lowest setting (and sunglasses on), then glued on the spacer with Norland 64 UV-setting glue. The already glued collar was further secured with large blobs of high temperature hot glue.

Nico is holding the TN42, there’s also a 1 Mcd BLF GT, a 470 kcd 3xdedomed XM-L2 modded Shocker, and a hardly visible 160kcd neutral FT02. The pylon is at a bit over 100 meter to the base, also over 100 tall.

The other pylon is at 700 meter, I did not have a zooming camera (just my phone), but you can see that it is illuminated.

Thanks for the help in modding and posting pics Djozz!

Grtz
Nico

11km away, huh? You two must keep working on throwers until you can bat-signal each other ;)

11km away, huh? You two must keep working on throwers until you can bat-signal each other :wink:

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I like the idea but I see two problems:

1) too many high-rise buildings in the way
2) it would require over 30Mcd throw capacity, that would require an aespheric with a 1 meter diameter main lens…….

So, I probably will have to look for other means to achieve this I guess…… :wink:

Grtz
Nico

If you want to see the signal (and don’t need to be illuminated) you need much less intensity. But to shine through the buildings…you need much more.

A gamma-thrower! Where did I put my cobalt-60 and the electromagnetic gamma-lenses?

Tonight: damaged two optisolis LEDs and a Samsung.

This is my kind of WDYMT post. Sheared domes, bad re-flows, shorting wires. Keep up the mediocre work it makes the average modder like myself feel better sometimes after seeing 10 posts in a row of flawless carbon fiber wraps, custom lathe/mill projects, hand carved pills/centering rings.