Oh gosh, I just mean visible cloud-bounces. Like the bat-signal. At 11km you're starting to get into earth curvature issues for straight line... And probably finding whatever the laser version of BLF is. I don't try to find it because I'd end up with blind for sure
Yep, me too, just yesterday tried to build a lighted tail, thereās 6 0603 leds on it but I spent 11 leds (some projectiled on the floor and never found back) before I found there was a short somewhere in the Oshpark board that I could not fix. So I will start all over again with a new board, and probably another 10+ leds before it is finished. :weary:
I think the "what did you break today" thread is super important for newer modders to see, especially if people like CRX, djozz, MRsDNF post there. When they bust something, it helps them feel better that these well-known modders break stuff too.
I managed to get a picture of my bare XHP50.2 while it was on. This involved shining it through a slide projector lens onto a big sheet of paper, and taking a picture of the projected image.
When I take a picture of it directly, with the LED off, it looks like this. Thereās also another flashlight shining into the reflector to illuminate things better.
If I use only overhead light, itās less colorfulā¦ just some green shining in from a nearby Kermit-green wall.
I actually was looking for that thread and couldnāt find exact keyword to search the link.
Will bookmark the link instead for future reference :person_facepalming:
I opened my D1, to try a slice & dice on my 3V XHP50.2ā¦
But as soon as I desoldered the LED wires, I saw that the dome was slightly lifted
I think I damaged it when I removed the ābutterflyā centering gasket that I used.
Now I have a UV/blue thrower that heats stupidly fastā¦
I measured 19A at start !
On your first picture it really looks like the die spacing is very uneven.
On the second and third picture that does not seem to be the case. Though the bottom dies donāt seem to line upā¦and the top ones donāt either.
In my fairly elaborate Hamār build the center SST40 has already had to be replaced once, the dedomed die surface got something on it and made a pile of ash, after which the light it produced was on the green side. I had put a domed SST40 in itās place at a loss of throw but small lumens gain. Now, in testing my rebuilt light box, I found out Hamār is reading significantly lower than expected, āonly 20,000 lumensā in the now calibrated box. As it turns out, the SST40 in the middle isnāt working once again.
As this emitter is run directly off the original Q8 driver as the Master of 4 Slaves, it has to be a wire came loose to the SST40. Bond wires appear intact, no sign of burned phosphor, just nothing from the center emitter.
While this may sound comparatively easy to repair, it will not beā¦ I sealed connections in epoxy then embedded them under Sugru, a silicone compound. The easiest repair would be if one of the leads on the MCPCB desoldered due to heat (those contacts are sealed but would be the least obtrusive to get at) If itās at the driver it will require hours of work to get at to fix and reassemble.
Itās less uneven than it looks in the first pic. Thereās still a bit of phosphor between the top two dies, and between the left twoā¦ so it lights up and looks white in the picture, which makes it look like thereās more space between the dies.
Itās definitely better than other SST-20 lights Iāve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.
But then: 5000K and 6500K are low CRI. Maybe it would be better with just 3000K and 4000K mix as a base with few 6500K emitters to make it cooler and rosier?