FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I wouldn’t put it past any manufacturer to structure availability to maximize profits, but that’s not what’s going on here. Looking at prices on Arrow, the cheapest XP-L HI is $3.50 in bulk quantities. LH351Ds are as low as $0.70, and single quantities of the popular 5000K, 90 CRI version are cheaper than bulk XP-L HIs. A search on Octopart finds the SST-20 in 4000K, 95 CRI is cheaper still, both in single and bulk quantities.

It wouldn’t surprise me if Lumintop’s per-unit profit is actually higher on the lower-priced high-CRI version, whichever emitter it ends up with.

It is a great light! really small but powerful as a 18650 light!

I didn’t read through the thread, how is the heat sink?

Something like that. But the discussion is over there, not here. :slight_smile:

I think it’s interesting, and I’m watching to learn from the thread, but it’s not really for my benefit. I just figure someone on BLF probably has the answers this person needs to make a cool shiny thing.

*eyeroll.gif*

Not every imperfection is a sign of foul play. In this case, it’s probably our fault for not making a decision about SST-20 sooner… or at all, really. They’ve had the XP-L HI in stock for a while, waiting for production. Meanwhile, we told them last-minute in a wishy-washy way that they should maybe offer SST-20 too, and it takes time to get the parts.

Mostly, I just hope the samples are perfect so production can go ahead without any delays.

The heat sink is small. It is not meant for extended use on turbo. The turbo level is mostly just a burst mode. The main goal of this light is not to be bright, the goal is to be practical for daily use. So it is small and ergonomic, instead of big and blindingly bright.

Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes - which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.

QFT

I’m a tint and CRI snob too, but the human eye and brain are pretty good at adapting to just about anything. The longer a period I use a rosy light, the less rosy it appears and the same is true for greenish ones. Ambient light has a HUGE effect on how I perceive the duv and color temp of any lights too.

I understand… :+1: . But actualIy I’m not that “naive”… I’m just not paranoid to the point that I think there is a ‘bad guy’ waiting behind every bush to get me. They are actually only behind a few.
The key is knowing which one’s…… :wink:

Interested, albeit probably a year or two late… :stuck_out_tongue:

What’s the maximum regulated output from the driver? I guess it’s FET driver?

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45538/5622

Fet+7+1

That’s my point, just because it doesn’t seem to effect you doesn’t mean those of us who do have issues with it are just white wall hunting.

While I do use higher brightness levels in urban areas, they are still relatively low.

Thanks Scallywag. My first Anduril light is still on its way. Can you confirm if Anduril indicates with a blip in the ramp when it goes from regulated to hybrid mode, like the Emisar D4 UI?

lol

+10,000 . We never mentioned “get incredibly annoyed by green” either…Personally, I just Do Not like green… that is all. Period.

And as Eraursls1984 mentioned, it has nothing at all to do with the silly, tired, overused, & greatly exaggerated term… “White Wall Hunting”.

If a ‘greenish tint’ Does Not bother some of us…. wonderful.

If a ‘greenish tint’ Does bother some of us……. wonderful.

But neither group need tell the other it’s raining when it is actually something else running down their back. :face_with_monocle:

Guys sorry, sign me out. Circumstances…

Gotta chime in, if 4000k SST20 is too green for you (it was for me), you might be satisfied with 3500k SST20 from Mouser. Still 95CRI, still a hint of green, but pleasantly disappears when there is no other lights to compare to.

When people said 4000k was hint of green, IMO it was awful and I would guess has an awful R9 value, there is just no red, not even yellow. The 3500k is much closer to what people describe as a hint of green, it is pure white but held up next to an incan you think “ahh there is a hint of green”.

Actually the 4000K has an excellent R9 value.

You can really see it when you shine 4000K SST20 on anything red. The red really pops. Much more so than any CREE led found in flashlights.

Bottom line is red looks absolutely great with the 4000K SST20. The problem is all the whites look a bit greenish.

I agree