I wouldn’t put it past any manufacturer to structure availability to maximize profits, but that’s not what’s going on here. Looking at prices on Arrow, the cheapest XP-L HI is $3.50 in bulk quantities. LH351Ds are as low as $0.70, and single quantities of the popular 5000K, 90 CRI version are cheaper than bulk XP-L HIs. A search on Octopart finds the SST-20 in 4000K, 95 CRI is cheaper still, both in single and bulk quantities.
It wouldn’t surprise me if Lumintop’s per-unit profit is actually higher on the lower-priced high-CRI version, whichever emitter it ends up with.
Something like that. But the discussion is over there, not here.
I think it’s interesting, and I’m watching to learn from the thread, but it’s not really for my benefit. I just figure someone on BLF probably has the answers this person needs to make a cool shiny thing.
Not every imperfection is a sign of foul play. In this case, it’s probably our fault for not making a decision about SST-20 sooner… or at all, really. They’ve had the XP-L HI in stock for a while, waiting for production. Meanwhile, we told them last-minute in a wishy-washy way that they should maybe offer SST-20 too, and it takes time to get the parts.
Mostly, I just hope the samples are perfect so production can go ahead without any delays.
The heat sink is small. It is not meant for extended use on turbo. The turbo level is mostly just a burst mode. The main goal of this light is not to be bright, the goal is to be practical for daily use. So it is small and ergonomic, instead of big and blindingly bright.
Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes - which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
I’m a tint and CRI snob too, but the human eye and brain are pretty good at adapting to just about anything. The longer a period I use a rosy light, the less rosy it appears and the same is true for greenish ones. Ambient light has a HUGE effect on how I perceive the duv and color temp of any lights too.
I understand… :+1: . But actualIy I’m not that “naive”… I’m just not paranoid to the point that I think there is a ‘bad guy’ waiting behind every bush to get me. They are actually only behind a few. The key is knowing which one’s……
Thanks Scallywag. My first Anduril light is still on its way. Can you confirm if Anduril indicates with a blip in the ramp when it goes from regulated to hybrid mode, like the Emisar D4 UI?
Gotta chime in, if 4000k SST20 is too green for you (it was for me), you might be satisfied with 3500k SST20 from Mouser. Still 95CRI, still a hint of green, but pleasantly disappears when there is no other lights to compare to.
When people said 4000k was hint of green, IMO it was awful and I would guess has an awful R9 value, there is just no red, not even yellow. The 3500k is much closer to what people describe as a hint of green, it is pure white but held up next to an incan you think “ahh there is a hint of green”.