FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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teacher
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X3 wrote:
teacher wrote:
I don’t think Lumintop is trying to do anything “clever”. It has been known for a very long time the XP-L HI was going to possibly cost around $6 more per light. It has also been known the other LED options have been, for whatever reason; hard to source.
I wish I was as naive as you are, the world would seem like a better place.
Anyway, at least it move forward
I understand… Thumbs Up . But actualIy I’m not that “naive”… I’m just not paranoid to the point that I think there is a ‘bad guy’ waiting behind every bush to get me. They are actually only behind a few.
The key is knowing which one’s….. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Dannick
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Interested, albeit probably a year or two late… Silly

KevinZA1988
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What’s the maximum regulated output from the driver? I guess it’s FET driver?

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Scallywag
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
What's the maximum regulated output from the driver? I guess it's FET driver?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1421292#comment-1421292

Fet+7+1

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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Eraursls1984
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spaceminions wrote:
Eraursls1984 wrote:
Quote:
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.

This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.

Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.

That’s my point, just because it doesn’t seem to effect you doesn’t mean those of us who do have issues with it are just white wall hunting.

While I do use higher brightness levels in urban areas, they are still relatively low.

KevinZA1988
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Scallywag wrote:

KevinZA1988 wrote:
What’s the maximum regulated output from the driver? I guess it’s FET driver?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1421292#comment-1421292


Fet+7+1

Thanks Scallywag. My first Anduril light is still on its way. Can you confirm if Anduril indicates with a blip in the ramp when it goes from regulated to hybrid mode, like the Emisar D4 UI?

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KevinZA1988
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lol

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teacher
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Eraursls1984 wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
Eraursls1984 wrote:
Quote:
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.

This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.

Just because you get incredibly annoyed by (Do Not Like) green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
That’s my point, just because it doesn’t seem to effect you doesn’t mean those of us who do have issues with it are just white wall hunting.
+10,000 . We never mentioned “get incredibly annoyed by green” either…Personally, I just Do Not like green… that is all. Period.

And as Eraursls1984 mentioned, it has nothing at all to do with the silly, tired, overused, & greatly exaggerated term… “White Wall Hunting”.

If a ‘greenish tint’ Does Not bother some of us…. wonderful.

If a ‘greenish tint’ Does bother some of us……. wonderful.

But neither group need tell the other it’s raining when it is actually something else running down their back. Hat

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Guys sorry, sign me out. Circumstances…

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Gotta chime in, if 4000k SST20 is too green for you (it was for me), you might be satisfied with 3500k SST20 from Mouser. Still 95CRI, still a hint of green, but pleasantly disappears when there is no other lights to compare to.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/SST-20-W35H-A120-J4...

When people said 4000k was hint of green, IMO it was awful and I would guess has an awful R9 value, there is just no red, not even yellow. The 3500k is much closer to what people describe as a hint of green, it is pure white but held up next to an incan you think “ahh there is a hint of green”.

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NWoodsman wrote:
…When people said 4000k was hint of green, IMO it was awful and I would guess has an awful R9 value, there is just no red, not even yellow. The 3500k is much closer to what people describe as a hint of green, it is pure white but held up next to an incan you think “ahh there is a hint of green”.

Actually the 4000K has an excellent R9 value.

You can really see it when you shine 4000K SST20 on anything red. The red really pops. Much more so than any CREE led found in flashlights.

Bottom line is red looks absolutely great with the 4000K SST20. The problem is all the whites look a bit greenish.

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I agree

kat
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I want to sign up for one as well

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Dannick wrote:
Interested, albeit probably a year or two late... :P

 

Who could this be?

Macka17
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IF it ever comes into fruition.
I’ll have one in SST 20. and if they do one in Nichia 291B.
I’ll have one there too.

I think I did put my name down in the beginning but that was yrs ago
feels like.
It’s a bloody loong wait for a little “Very nice” looking torch.

NOT interested in Throw or spread, just want a nice little, “in pocket” torch with pleasant Natural looking 291B colour.

teacher
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@Macka17….. Yep, good memory; you were down for one already. Thumbs Up

From post #4….

1 MRsDNF: 85
1 Macka17: 675
1 MagPap: 692

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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nobody
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I’d like a SST20 if/when.

Does this get me on the list LOL

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Recommended batteries?
OP says short and unprotected…Samsung 30Q? 18.3 mm diameter may be tight?
If the answer is emitter dependent, am most interest in getting both with XP-L HI 3D.
Also, will the FW3A have a low voltage protection circuit?
Sorry, in advance if this was already addressed.

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1. Samsung 30Qs will not have any problem fitting.

2. Yes, there is Low Voltage Protection(LVP).

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

hanson405
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In for LH351D!

KevinZA1988
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How much more floody will the LH351D be compared to the SST-20 under the Carclo?

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iamlucky13
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
How much more floody will the LH351D be compared to the SST-20 under the Carclo?

If you review the very first post, it has a simulated comparison of the XP-L HI to the LH351D. The SST-20 should be similar to our slightly more throwy than the XP-L HI.

If the FW3A becomes available with SST-20’s and you’re thinking of modding it with LH351D’s, consider slicing the domes for more throw and better tint.

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Thanks

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Nite Shadow wrote:
Recommended batteries?
OP says short and unprotected…Samsung 30Q? 18.3 mm diameter may be tight?
If the answer is emitter dependent, am most interest in getting both with XP-L HI 3D.
Also, will the FW3A have a low voltage protection circuit?
Sorry, in advance if this was already addressed.

Preferably a flat top, unprotected cell. Button top may or may not work since some are taller than others.

If you want the highest turbo output, but also the highest heat and shortest time, go with a high drain. (VTC5A, 25R, etc…)

If you don’t care about squeezing every last lumen out on Turbo mode then a high capacity cell might be better. (MJ1, 35E, Panny GA, etc…)

The 30Q is not quite a super high drain, but is a nice mix between the two. Same for VTC6.

I think most folks will use the 30Q as it’s a proven reliable cell, works well, is cheap and is easily available.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
1. Samsung 30Qs will not have any problem fitting.

2. Yes, there is Low Voltage Protection(LVP).

Thanks, BlueSwordM! Thumbs Up

mortuus
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hanson405 wrote:
In for LH351D!

for now dont count that its possible to source those emitters, i would like the light with that emitter aswell but it seems it will probably be sst20 unless we hear something else…

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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I would like LH351D as well. But what do you guys think about the 3000K SST-20? It has a lot less green in it.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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mortuus
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
I would like LH351D as well. But what do you guys think about the 3000K SST-20? It has a lot less green in it.

i could live with that, even under 3000k i would take if possible but i doubt it..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

tatasal
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
But what do you guys think about the 3000K SST-20? It has a lot less green in it.

This is a photo of an SST20 3000k, 95cri Nightwatch Seeker NS22 that I posted in this thread HERE :

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