Does anyone know the changed that have been made between the first version and now the newly advertised version two of this light. I don’t see any updated info on the Fireflies website.
Kcd is broken down as thousand candela, so 20Kcd is 20,000 candela and 40Kcd is 40,000 candela. To figure throw based on candela you multiply x4 then take the square root of that answer to get a calculated throw in meters with a target of the light equivalent of a full moon, or approx 1/4 lux,
So 20Kcd is good for 282.84M throw and 40Kcd is good for 400m in throw. Not twice as far, just iver 1/3 as far. This lets you see that it isn’t linear. This is because it takes 4 times more light to reach twice as far and the candela reading is a measure of intensity, not quantity.
Optics make the differrnce less noticeable. I got my first SST-20’s in an E07, while the beam profile was pleasant tint shift had me pull that emitter quite fast…
Kcd is broken down as thousand candela, so 20Kcd is 20,000 candela and 40Kcd is 40,000 candela. To figure throw based on candela you multiply x4 then take the square root of that answer to get a calculated throw in meters with a target of the light equivalent of a full moon, or approx 1/4 lux,
So 20Kcd is good for 282.84M throw and 40Kcd is good for 400m in throw. Not twice as far, just iver 1/3 as far. This lets you see that it isn’t linear. This is because it takes 4 times more light to reach twice as far and the candela reading is a measure of intensity, not quantity.
Have any one done a video that shows the difference in beam between the two ?
Now, it already felt happy to read that BG customer service told me they would resend the item to me. Apart from that I understood they were offering me 1000 BG points as a token for the inconvenience caused. So, I replied back to them I would be happy to accept both resending the item and the 1000 BG points.
Now, I got another e-mail that sounds a bit different. Now, they are talking about "the spare part item". Any ideas how to read this? Will they be sending me a complete new flashlight with accessories or just the missing accessories ("the spart part item" does not sound like multiple accessory items)?
Well, if this was the outcome of my complaint they would still ignore the poor quality of my item. I was already surprised when they offered me a new item in the first place as usually I’m used to debate and fight for a little bit of compensation.
What a joke…after promising to resend the E07 (see e-mails above) Banggood now changed their mind and decided to only send me the clip and the o-ring…that’s all.
Thermal config is under blinky modes, starting at line 74. It might seem complex, but each step is very simple.
From off:
Triple click to enter blinky modes (starts at battery check)
Double-click to sunset mode
Double-click to beacon mode
Double-click to temp-check mode (will blink out the current temperature)
Click 4 times rapidly to enter thermal config
Light will blink once, signaling temperature calibration, then start “buzzing” or blinking rapidly. If you want to set the ambient room temperature (do this when the light is cool), while it is “buzzing,” click the number in degrees Celsius (eg – 21 degrees C or 70 degrees F, click 21 times).
When done, or if you want to skip temperature calibration, wait for the “buzz” to stop. Light will blink twice, signaling temperature limit, then start “buzzing” again. Click N times to set the maximum temperature as N + 30 degrees C, then wait for the “buzzing” to stop. So if you want 55 C, click 25 times.
Its little complicated. I think i got it by watching matt video.
3 clicks, 2 clicks, 2 clicks, 2 clicks, 4 clicks.
14 clicks. My room temp is 58 fahrenheit.
25 clicks.
Right ? It doesnt step down like it used to be.
Sorry for the slow follow up. That is correct. You should be good to go with a calibrated thermal sensor and a 55 Celsius limit. It should still step down, but more slowly, and not as far, and the body will get hotter.
What a joke…after promising to resend the E07 (see e-mails above) Banggood now changed their mind and decided to only send me the clip and the o-ring…that’s all.
wow sigh… that is not ok….. the manufacturer should take responsibility for missing items.
I have what appears to be a nice black version two E07, XP-L HI emitters in the high power option 6500K tint with blue auxillary LED’s. Full package, adapter, o-rings, manual, clip and even Samsung 40T. Most would think SWEET, but the problem is I actually paid for two GT Micro’s which I do NOT have.
So I have $90 tied up in the E07 package sitting there unusable to me. (I have to consider it not mine as it isn’t what I ordered) My buddy, the guy one of the GT Micro’s was ordered for, anxiously awaits his White Flat GT Micro and I have no idea when or if it’s gonna happen. (Right, I was gonna mod it, both actually)
And so it goes… responsibility, the hidden gem of the new world.
I have what appears to be a nice black version two E07, XP-L HI emitters in the high power option 6500K tint with blue auxillary LED’s. Full package, adapter, o-rings, manual, clip and even Samsung 40T. Most would think SWEET, but the problem is I actually paid for two GT Micro’s which I do NOT have.
So I have $90 tied up in the E07 package sitting there unusable to me. (I have to consider it not mine as it isn’t what I ordered) My buddy, the guy one of the GT Micro’s was ordered for, anxiously awaits his White Flat GT Micro and I have no idea when or if it’s gonna happen. (Right, I was gonna mod it, both actually)
And so it goes… responsibility, the hidden gem of the new world.
wow so bizzare…. but who got the other package wrong then, must be someone here on BLF maybe ? i dont get it… tell them u dont want the lights u didnt order and they must fix this somehow.. hahah
Kcd is broken down as thousand candela, so 20Kcd is 20,000 candela and 40Kcd is 40,000 candela. To figure throw based on candela you multiply x4 then take the square root of that answer to get a calculated throw in meters with a target of the light equivalent of a full moon, or approx 1/4 lux,
So 20Kcd is good for 282.84M throw and 40Kcd is good for 400m in throw. Not twice as far, just iver 1/3 as far. This lets you see that it isn’t linear. This is because it takes 4 times more light to reach twice as far and the candela reading is a measure of intensity, not quantity.
Have any one done a video that shows the difference in beam between the two ?
Here’s a comparison of the X-PL HI and SST-20 in a D4S. Both are around similar output/lumens here, the high CRI 4000K SST-20 will have slightly lower output.
I received my Fireflies E07 Friday of last week and it has a strange issue that my Fireflies PL47 has never had:
I will take a video to show you what’s happening but when I ramp up to the top of the ramp (not turbo) the light flickers very heavily and rapidly once it reaches the top of the ramp. This happens if I keep holding the button or if I release the button as soon as it reaches the top of the ramp. The flickering happens most of the time and can last anywhere from 2 – 10 seconds.
It also happens if I save the top of the ramp setting as the memory setting and turn the light off then on again.
Like I said, my PL47 doesn’t have this issue and is totally stable once it reaches the top of the ramp
[…]when I ramp up to the top of the ramp (not turbo) the light flickers very heavily and rapidly once it reaches the top of the ramp. […]
To me this sounds like there’s a lot of contact resistance, probably caused by grease/dirt on conductive areas. Please try following:
- unscrew the battery tube and the tailcap
- get some IPA (isopropanol) or contact cleaner and q-tips
- clean the non-anodized front face side and end face side of the battery tube
- clean the springs on the driver side and on the tailcap
- clean the outer rim on the inner side of the taicap (that area where the battery tube end side makes contact with the tail cap)
- clean the terminals on your battery (positive and negative side)
- screw down everything again and try again to see if there’s still flickering
Also, a copper washer in the tail cap may also help.
These are the ones I use:
“Unique Bargains 10PCS 24mm OD 16mm ID 2mm Thick Copper Washer Flat Ring Oil Brake Line Seal” found on Wally World site.
They are a bit thick but the thinner ones I got are slightly warped and I don’t like them as much. YMMV
Of course it will be floody.
Just a more usable beam since the SST-20 has 30% more throw than the XP-L HI, which helps offset the lower output somewhat.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I just dont know the difference between 20kcd. and 41kcd. All i know the number is more then twice
20 kcd for an indoor light is very bright, 40 kcd is very very bright. I will not use the E07 indoors at max at all.
link to djozz tests
Does anyone know the changed that have been made between the first version and now the newly advertised version two of this light. I don’t see any updated info on the Fireflies website.
Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York
@noboneshotdog :
And they probably fixed the MCPCB issue.
Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York
Kcd is broken down as thousand candela, so 20Kcd is 20,000 candela and 40Kcd is 40,000 candela. To figure throw based on candela you multiply x4 then take the square root of that answer to get a calculated throw in meters with a target of the light equivalent of a full moon, or approx 1/4 lux,
So 20Kcd is good for 282.84M throw and 40Kcd is good for 400m in throw. Not twice as far, just iver 1/3 as far. This lets you see that it isn’t linear. This is because it takes 4 times more light to reach twice as far and the candela reading is a measure of intensity, not quantity.
Guys, I used the Emisar D4S as an example for the throw difference between the 219C and SST-20.
I do not know about the real throw of the SST-29 at all.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Optics make the differrnce less noticeable. I got my first SST-20’s in an E07, while the beam profile was pleasant tint shift had me pull that emitter quite fast…
Have any one done a video that shows the difference in beam between the two ?
I have experienced severe issues with my order from Banggood, especially about missing accessories and poor quality, see here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1483031#comment-1483031
Now, it already felt happy to read that BG customer service told me they would resend the item to me. Apart from that I understood they were offering me 1000 BG points as a token for the inconvenience caused. So, I replied back to them I would be happy to accept both resending the item and the 1000 BG points.
Now, I got another e-mail that sounds a bit different. Now, they are talking about "the spare part item". Any ideas how to read this? Will they be sending me a complete new flashlight with accessories or just the missing accessories ("the spart part item" does not sound like multiple accessory items)?
Luminous and wired, we'll be glowing in the dark.
it sounds so like they can send the extra stuff that was missing ? they must be able since u are supposed to get all that in the box and u didnt.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Well, if this was the outcome of my complaint they would still ignore the poor quality of my item. I was already surprised when they offered me a new item in the first place as usually I’m used to debate and fight for a little bit of compensation.
Luminous and wired, we'll be glowing in the dark.
What a joke…after promising to resend the E07 (see e-mails above) Banggood now changed their mind and decided to only send me the clip and the o-ring…that’s all.
Luminous and wired, we'll be glowing in the dark.
Sorry for the slow follow up. That is correct. You should be good to go with a calibrated thermal sensor and a 55 Celsius limit. It should still step down, but more slowly, and not as far, and the body will get hotter.
wow sigh… that is not ok….. the manufacturer should take responsibility for missing items.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Taking responsibility is not a 2019 thing.
Oh, it is. Some just take the word “responsibility” out of it.
Though really – that’s not specific to 2019.
I have what appears to be a nice black version two E07, XP-L HI emitters in the high power option 6500K tint with blue auxillary LED’s. Full package, adapter, o-rings, manual, clip and even Samsung 40T. Most would think SWEET, but the problem is I actually paid for two GT Micro’s which I do NOT have.
So I have $90 tied up in the E07 package sitting there unusable to me. (I have to consider it not mine as it isn’t what I ordered) My buddy, the guy one of the GT Micro’s was ordered for, anxiously awaits his White Flat GT Micro and I have no idea when or if it’s gonna happen. (Right, I was gonna mod it, both actually)
And so it goes… responsibility, the hidden gem of the new world.
wow so bizzare…. but who got the other package wrong then, must be someone here on BLF maybe ? i dont get it… tell them u dont want the lights u didnt order and they must fix this somehow.. hahah
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Neal’s Deals, he knows, is supposedly figuring out who didn’t get the E07 they paid for… haven’t heard anything for some three weeks now.
Here’s a comparison of the X-PL HI and SST-20 in a D4S. Both are around similar output/lumens here, the high CRI 4000K SST-20 will have slightly lower output.
•
•
•
Eve and Adam pre 2019
are you referring to the adult toy store?
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
Can anyone help with this issue?
I received my Fireflies E07 Friday of last week and it has a strange issue that my Fireflies PL47 has never had:
I will take a video to show you what’s happening but when I ramp up to the top of the ramp (not turbo) the light flickers very heavily and rapidly once it reaches the top of the ramp. This happens if I keep holding the button or if I release the button as soon as it reaches the top of the ramp. The flickering happens most of the time and can last anywhere from 2 – 10 seconds.
It also happens if I save the top of the ramp setting as the memory setting and turn the light off then on again.
Like I said, my PL47 doesn’t have this issue and is totally stable once it reaches the top of the ramp
The BIG List of 500m+ Throw Flashlights!
Hi friend, what is the coupon code for buying directly from fireflies?
Emisar D4 Cyan Photos
Convoy S2+ triple & Solarforce P1D quad Nichia R9080 with copper pills
For sale: Nichia 219B sw45k R9080 & 219C 5000k R9050
To me this sounds like there’s a lot of contact resistance, probably caused by grease/dirt on conductive areas. Please try following:
- unscrew the battery tube and the tailcap
- get some IPA (isopropanol) or contact cleaner and q-tips
- clean the non-anodized front face side and end face side of the battery tube
- clean the springs on the driver side and on the tailcap
- clean the outer rim on the inner side of the taicap (that area where the battery tube end side makes contact with the tail cap)
- clean the terminals on your battery (positive and negative side)
- screw down everything again and try again to see if there’s still flickering
Luminous and wired, we'll be glowing in the dark.
Also, a copper washer in the tail cap may also help.
These are the ones I use:
“Unique Bargains 10PCS 24mm OD 16mm ID 2mm Thick Copper Washer Flat Ring Oil Brake Line Seal” found on Wally World site.
They are a bit thick but the thinner ones I got are slightly warped and I don’t like them as much.
YMMV
code is in the first post.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Any news about cu+ti e07 edition?When will they open for sale?
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