What did you mod today?

I put a 3v XHP50.2 in my convoy l2 (single cell) with the intention to make it more of a single cell Q8, didn’t work. still throws like a beast considering what it is. but i do like the slightly larger spot.

I’m not sure if i’m just getting used to high lumens (my edc has a ~2200 turbo) but it doesn’t seem that bright. maybe it’s the X6 driver? still waiting on a LD-A4

Because i have to much time but can not make much physical stuff i am using my head and plan a new case for my old Soundstrem SS10R chassis.

They were in my car many many years ago. Because space was tight they are in a not so optimal case now.
The plan will be to build two chases like this

Each woofer will get a Mivoc AM 80 as amplifier
First data from the programm

I found a cell which had been discharged to 1.8V. Out of curiosity, I tried charging it. Things went pretty well until it was nearly full, and then it refused to go up above ~4.12V or so. It just kept charging and charging.

So… that cell is basically dead. It may still be usable for some lightweight purposes, but I drew sad :frowning: faces all over it to make sure I don’t forget which cell it is.

How did you charge it?

Basically, below 2V, you want to charge the cell as slowly as possible.

I found that even with the volt meter it does stop charging. I think the lower resistance batteries terminate quicker and maybe just the smaller protected ones take forever

Braver than me. I throw them out recycle my cells responsibly without charging at that point.

Put a 3V XHP-50.2 in my TK61, the driver is cranking amperage safe for an XM-L2 so I need to address power level, not sure how to go about making the TK61 do the amperage this emitter is capable of… as it is it’s only doing some 2100 lumens.

Is it this driver…

I’m trying to install an osram white flat in a GT mini but the screw cutouts of the new 20mm pcb don’t line up. Should I just use thermal paste without screws?

Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

Most of my lights don’t use screws to hold down the pcb.

Centering ring and bezel should be fine.

Aha, so holes for the wires and holes for the screws don’t all line up… Gotcha.

I only got a micro, so can’t say how the mini’s put together, but if the reflector pushes down hard enough on the pcb, regular thermal goop like AS5 should work fine. The reflector (and presumably centering spacer?) should keep it lined up and centered. It’ll “float” and self-center via the reflector.

I had that issue with C8s before.

still its always risky with the LED holes within the MCPCB diameter
if it rotates as well it will easily cut through the wire insulation, had that often enough in the past
best is to drill fitting holes and thread them
or
use a grinding tool or file to remove material from MCPCB
if you work on MCPCB always make sure if you are finished the bottom is flat!

Because axial fixation is done by bezel/reflector/centering ring, one screw should be enough to prevent the MCPCB from rotating and shearing off the leads. IMHO there will always be one cutout that fits. Just don’t overtighten the screw to keep the MCPCB flat. Easy does it.

Kawi, I have that but I don’t think it will supply enough power to the 50.2… so… I modded the TK61 entirely.

I wiped the factory driver , installed an FET+1 with ramping and reversing 7 level firmware, then modified the carrier for 4P. With Efest 3500mAh cells it does 4490 lumens on level 7. :slight_smile:

This is with my light box diffused and calibrated per Maukka. May be a little low but my meter shows actual lumens now with no multiplier so it’s pretty cool not having to mess with the math. lol

I did a simple driver swap on a Thorfire TG06S. I decided I wasn’t crazy about it always starting on high, so I swapped in a Nanjg 101 AK-A1 with guppydrv. It’s 14500 only now but I like the programmable firmware. The only issue is moonlight doesn’t work. It’s a dead setting, all the others work fine though. I don’t know if the driver is defective or if moonlight is just finicky.

E07 mod time!

I took my trusty Work Sharp w/ Blade Grinder attachment and beveled the edge and took just a hair off the total diameter from a 90 degree angle then used some wet 2500 sandpaper to finish the bottom

Old emitters removed, board cleaned up. LH351D 3000K 90CRI + LH351D 5000K 90CRI set aside

She works! The long lines on either side of the emitter pad are negative

My what nice legs you have

One more test before we mess with aux board. The LED wires are so hard with solder and cut exactly to length, this requires some finesse tweezer action

Aux connected without much trouble, too bad this color combo isn’t available anymore

All back together

Measurements:

OUT: 6,118 lm at 0s (Molicel P42A 21700)
CCT: 4143K
CRI: 92 Ra 64 R9

Nice version, contactcr! And you ended up only very slightly above the BBL. At what current was the tint measurement?

And are you happy with the result?

The previous one was turbo using a Samsung 50E

This is 3x7135 default mode when you screw on cap. I had anywhere from .0014 to .0019 in this mode

The tint shift from SST-20’s really bothers me so this is a nice result in my opinion. Essentially the same results across the entire output range. The hot spot is much wider now so no more “pointing” with the light. Gotta adjust your use case I suppose. The light heats up the body nicely now so the MCPCB was a success as well.