[GB has ended] JetuE17A/JetuE21A/Jetusolis

[jon_slider]

@Agro

does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

Yes
Double the heat conductivity

[clemence]

@Agro

@clemence

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

That’s a curious choice. I suppose these don’t have super thin ceramic insulation, do they?
If they do - I’m very curious about the maker.
If they don’t - does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

No, it’s not a curious choice for these reasons:

- no benefits of nanoceramic or copper board at Jet-U power level (230-235mA). But decided to go with copper because BLF likes copper and eventually someone will use it in a hot rod lights.

• Faaaaar cheaper than nanoceramic board. $0,6/pc (for 2 LED types at 200pcs per type, 400pcs total all in) vs $2/pc (for 400pcs per LED type). The NC prototyping cost is killing me.

About the maker, I’ll keep it secret to stay alive. But you can find many makers out there using the same base substrate. Bergquist

At 230mA power level, copper doesn’t benefit to almost everything except it can be soldered onto solderable objects. These 10mm Jetusolis/JetuE17A/JetuE21A copper MCPCB already tested against NC board.

Check the my post in your own thread below:

@clemence

The Indium gain is not as dramatic as in 119D test or perhaps other ceramic based LEDs. Because E17A/E21A has fragile phosphor layer and use polymer base. The phosphor layer burns way faster than ceramic base LEDs before the actual die cooked. I only did controlled test on 4pcs E21A to save time. The rest of the R70 tested at 2A starting point (60 seconds stops for current ramping) just to cross check/validate my finding. The controlled test done with 3 minutes for each steps. This what makes the burnt patterns looks different. Beyond peak current, E21A phosphor layer slowly degrade and burns at several hottest points.

- Clemence

[The_Whispering_Galle (The Whispering Gallery)]

In for two kits - hoping that it works with a Lumintop EDC01 but will get a Jet-U if not.

[Agro]

@clemence

@Agro

@clemence

@The Whispering Gallery

What kind of MCPCB comes in the kit? Is it XP footprint or specially made for E21a/Optisolis? If XP, is the LED connected to the positive and thermal pads, then MCPCB insulated from the aluminum pill, and ground wire connected to the MCPCB?

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding something or if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Insulated copper non DTP specifically for E17A/E21A and 757

[Clemence]

That’s a curious choice. I suppose these don’t have super thin ceramic insulation, do they?
If they do - I’m very curious about the maker.
If they don’t - does copper offer any real advantage over alu?

No, it’s not a curious choice for these reasons:

- no benefits of nanoceramic or copper board at Jet-U power level (230-235mA). But decided to go with copper because BLF likes copper and eventually someone will use it in a hot rod lights.

• Faaaaar cheaper than nanoceramic board. $0,6/pc (for 2 LED types at 200pcs per type, 400pcs total all in) vs $2/pc (for 400pcs per LED type). The NC prototyping cost is killing me.

About the maker, I’ll keep it secret to stay alive. But you can find many makers out there using the same base substrate. Bergquist

At 230mA power level, copper doesn’t benefit to almost everything except it can be soldered onto solderable objects. These 10mm Jetusolis/JetuE17A/JetuE21A copper MCPCB already tested against NC board.

Check the my post in your own thread below:

@clemence

The Indium gain is not as dramatic as in 119D test or perhaps other ceramic based LEDs. Because E17A/E21A has fragile phosphor layer and use polymer base. The phosphor layer burns way faster than ceramic base LEDs before the actual die cooked. I only did controlled test on 4pcs E21A to save time. The rest of the R70 tested at 2A starting point (60 seconds stops for current ramping) just to cross check/validate my finding. The controlled test done with 3 minutes for each steps. This what makes the burnt patterns looks different. Beyond peak current, E21A phosphor layer slowly degrade and burns at several hottest points.

- Clemence

I see. Thanks for the explanation.

[clemence]

UPDATE: 190407
MOQ of 60pcs reached. But I will keep the interest list going until I have finished with RRT01 testing. And possibly combined with RRT01 interest list. My RRT01 shipment from Banggood still somewhere between Hongkong and Indonesia. With combined order I should get better pricing for you too.

[Clemence]

[DrDevil]

Uups I guess there was a misunderstanding

I wanted to update my interest in total from 1 Jetusolis 5000K to another Jetusolis 3000K
So I made a second comment.
Now the second Jetusolis moved to Nr. 28;
Nr. 28 and Nr. 1 is the same person

Thank you

[clemence]

@DrDevil

Uups I guess there was a misunderstanding

I wanted to update my interest in total from 1 Jetusolis 5000K to another Jetusolis 3000K
So I made a second comment.
Now the second Jetusolis moved to Nr. 28;
Nr. 28 and Nr. 1 is the same person

Thank you

Fixed Doc

[Clemence]

[Paradoxical_Antagoni (Paradoxical Antagonist)]

Comment made on # 28 of sheet.
1x jetusolis ultra high cri @ 5000K.

Thanks.

[Cosmodragoon]

I’ve never bought a flashlight this way and I’m curious. Does this mean we can get what is essentially a new flashlight with our choice of LED and color temperature? (I’m curious about the Optisolis but I’m not sure if I’d want 3000, 4000, or 5000K.) How much would one of these cost in total and how exactly do we set it up?

[clemence]

@Cosmodragoon

I’ve never bought a flashlight this way and I’m curious. Does this mean we can get what is essentially a new flashlight with our choice of LED and color temperature? (I’m curious about the Optisolis but I’m not sure if I’d want 3000, 4000, or 5000K.) How much would one of these cost in total and how exactly do we set it up?

Please refer to post #1, click the link. All answered there.

Thanks,
Clemence

[Tally-ho]

I’ve bought a jetusolis 6500K and a 5000K in a heartbeat without checking maukka’s tests.

It appears that the 5000K has natively a bit better blue rendition and the 6500K better red rendition from the tests but, probably because of the LED tint’s influence, by eyes colors with red (red, brown, orange) are popping more with the 5000K than with the 6500K, and the blue shades looks richer with the 6500K than with the 5000K.
The 6500K has a tendancy to flatten the illuminated scene more than the 5000K but shapes of blue objects with the 6500K seems more 3D despite that it has natively less blue colors rendition, maybe again because of the blue tint of the LED that is enhancing blue colors.
Round copper objects look rounder with the 5000K which has lower red colors rendition/fidelity than the 6500K.
The blue anodized Jaxman E2 looks rounder with deep blue shades with the 6500K while it is a bit greyed out and flattened with the 5000K.

It sounds a bit akward.

Generally people are reporting that high CRI has a 3D effect, but both jetusolis are very high CRI and it’s the cooler one that globally flatten a scene with very different colors.
I wish I could test this with a room full of objects with red and adjoining colors and another one with blue and adjoining colors.

[Tally-ho]

There is probably metamerism involved into this due to tint’s LED or spectral composition of its emitted light. I would wish to hear maukka’s opinion about it as he has probably more colorimetric knowledges than me.

[clemence]

@DaveTheDude: which one? Jetusolis or JetuE21A?

[Clemence]

[twisted_raven]

@Tally-ho

I’ve bought a jetusolis 6500K and a 5000K in a heartbeat without checking maukka’s tests.

It appears that the 5000K has natively a bit better blue rendition and the 6500K better red rendition from the tests but, probably because of the LED tint’s influence, by eyes colors with red (red, brown, orange) are popping more with the 5000K than with the 6500K, and the blue shades looks richer with the 6500K than with the 5000K.
The 6500K has a tendancy to flatten the illuminated scene more than the 5000K but shapes of blue objects with the 6500K seems more 3D despite that it has natively less blue colors rendition, maybe again because of the blue tint of the LED that is enhancing blue colors.
Round copper objects look rounder with the 5000K which has lower red colors rendition/fidelity than the 6500K.
The blue anodized Jaxman E2 looks rounder with deep blue shades with the 6500K while it is a bit greyed out and flattened with the 5000K.

It sounds a bit akward.

Generally people are reporting that high CRI has a 3D effect, but both jetusolis are very high CRI and it’s the cooler one that globally flatten a scene with very different colors.
I wish I could test this with a room full of objects with red and adjoining colors and another one with blue and adjoining colors.

The CRI pits the emitter against an ‘ideal’ radiant of its same color temperature. So a 6500k’s CRI numbers will be compared against another 6500k source, and a 5000k’s CRI numbers will be compared against a 5000k source. Since 5000k is a warmer spectral balance, it will have more red, and 6500k have more blue. So just because the 6500k shows more R9 doesn’t mean it actually has more R9 than a 5000k.

[Tally-ho]

@twisted raven
Yes, I understood my “mistake” this week-end while seeing this :
(source)

A quad optisolis with 2x 6500K and 2x 5000K will be part of my next order.

[malkoff_junkie]

could a quad optosolis be useable in say a Viking Pro flashlight? or stick to E21A 6500k?.
was also thinking of mixing 6500 and 5000k E21A or Optosolis.

Tactical Use.
Thanks.

[clemence]

@optosolis

could a quad optosolis be useable in say a Viking Pro flashlight? or stick to E21A 6500k?.
was also thinking of mixing 6500 and 5000k E21A or Optosolis.

Tactical Use.
Thanks.

No, you can’t reliably use Optisolis in flashlights such as Viking Pro. I can’t give you answer to E21A quadtrix in Viking Pro too, I’ve told you I haven’t done a thorough test about it. Still don’t have convenient time for it.

[Clemence]

[clemence]

UPDATE 190417: 60pcs MOQ reached!
I will update the Gsheet with payment detail amount in the rightmost column tomorrow. To simplify shipping, fix shipping rate at $8 for international orders and $3 for local orders up to 100gr/packet weight will be used. Normally, cheapest is to US at $8,9.

[Clemence]

[clemence]

UPDATE 190418: Payment period started
Please review your order and contact me via: virence.op@gmail.com if there’s something wrong or needs to be corrected. I will place the order after all orders in the list paid. The payment waiting time is 2 weeks max. (until 190501), can be faster depending on the total payment completion.

Pay to: virence.op@gmail.com

NOTE:

- Please mention your nickname used in the listing on the Paypal note

• If after 2 weeks more than 5% of listed orders canceled/not paid, I will cancel the GB and refund all the payments

[Clemence]

[noboneshotdog]

PayPal sent for $45.00. Keep the change.