What blade did you EDC today?

Like I have said already… if they are the same quality as the first one I got I do not think you will be disappointed. :wink:
And I am counting heavily on them being the same quality…. I ordered 17 more. They are all in shipment now…… so fingers crossed. :wink:

Your right… that ‘extra hole’ in the Skirmish made it look totally different.

Best I recall the original Grip & Mini Grip had the Spyderco Hole in the blade for opening. BM paid Spyderco royalties for using that ‘Hole’.
Then BM went to the Oval hole on the Grips…. I actually liked that better. I also liked/like the Mini Grip much better than the Grip. In fact I did not like the Grip at all. It was too big & just felt awkward to me. The Mini Grip on the other hand was just perfect in every way… to me.

There were a couple other BM models that used the Spyderco Hole too & BM paid royalties. I can’t remember atm which models they were though.

I agree completely about the automobile makers too…. :smiley:

I’m not pushing my luck hard using my folders either. Sometimes using a small hand saw makes more sense than chopping with a knife.

Anyway, I had some chainsaw work in the backyard this morning so I gave my Stihl some exercise.
I don’t own the Ganzo G733 but I have the G734 (the liner-lock version). So here it is with the Stihl in the background:

It baffles me that this could be genuine Damascus steel, given the price. It begs the question of it being some final stage cosmetic treatment to the steel simulating the Damascus aesthetic or if they really managed to come up with a cheap process to make authentic Damascus style steel.

Nope… it IS NOT a “cosmetic treatment”, I can verify that 100%. It is San Mai damascus.

I’ll be back in a minute with a link to explain more….

@ xevious … Here ya’ go:
.

Nice looking knives.

  • What is the one on the left??

Actually “True Damascus steel” is a blended mix of Different materials.
Secrets of, long lost in the mists of time. NOT Laminations.

Modern “so-called Damascus is multiple versions of ”laminated) steel alloys.

Read up on it. It’s interesting. I started on my Japanese Cooks knives yrs ago.
Too brittle a core steel (mainly Carbon based) alloy. Gives you Super sharp and “chipping brittle” blades.

The skills are in getting the right grade of core steel with soft, but NOT too soft outer layers.
I use a 3in VG10 core Iseya Hammered Paring kitchen knife as my small field knife in pack at camp, along with a Tojiro 6in Petty, and 7in Santoku All VG10.
SUPER sharp. not brittle with right mfg (heat treatment. they vary)
They’d be the cheapest, proven, GOOD Grade Japanese blades on market
I also have some $500/600 plus too.These are $45 to 75AUD del.
They leave ALL other types of kitchen blades for dead.
Try one.
I have 45+ yrs of Wusthof German blades. They now sit in drawer.

Sorry, back on track. Folders.
I’ve just ordered a coupla those Burlwood laminates for pressie’s.
I wouldn’t use smooth straight handles knives myself.

I prefer a coupla moulds or finger grips in mine.
Over the yrs a coupla have bitten me with wet.oily, bloody, smooth handles.

Thank you for sharing that. My best knives are Japanese, but not Damascus. (one Shun…meh) So if I buy a Santoko, here is good?: https://www.hocho-knife.com/iseya-g-series-33-layer-vg-10-damascus-santoku-knife-180mm/

Hi.
Personal choices on those things. My love is your hate sort of thing.
“eyes of the beholder”. More so than Western ones.
I have some lovely mid range blades. Top line start at a coupla grand each.with multiple grades/types of steels and smiths.

Personally. Starting out. I’d try the Tojiro DP. models first.
Basic 6in Petty is a good one to practice on AND use after.
Sharpening is “completely” different.
The Iseya are next step up in steels.
I have Wet (different to whet)stones. but nowadays use fine Diamond plates and finish off with mix of polished diamond flat faced steel,s
and ceramic.

A properly edged blade.
Your arm hairs actually LEAN TOWARDS blade just b4 contact. Static I reckon.
They really DO get scary sharp.
Do NOT put tip of your fingers to edge to check. It WILL PRESS through your skin and flesh, just holding against it.

Tip.
most cutting will improve if you buy the “hammered ”blade finishes.
They cause little air pockets between whatever, and your blade side.
They tend NOT to stick to each other so much. Specially cheeses.
Have fun.
And like our knives and torches. You do NOT need the top priced, named ones.
To get a good blade.
Go on “Hocho Knives” and read reviews on different smiths and blades.
It’ll take you a while. It’s fascinating.

Again. Have fun mate.

PS. You like Iseya/shape.Go the “I” Hammered series.
and check blade depth . tip profile too. They vary.
I love the Toj DP tip profile the best.
They a chopping more than rocking blade.
In Petty too.

You will also find (most do) That once you use a “Santoku 7in”
in home.
You’ll tend to stick with it over all others.
Just one western Wusthof for chopping heavy.
Wife uses it all the time now. (Tojiro) I use a better Carbon Steel one.

Also have 4 or 5 European 6 to 8in Chef’s blades in drawer.
Never again to see the light of day. Incl a brand New Wusthof 8in chef.
Reprofiled. Should sell it, cost over $300AUD.

The one on the left is a Bestech Pebble and you are correct on the other one. I only need a black G10 FH11 without the reversible pocket clip holes to round out the run of FH11’s. Great affordable little flippers.

Thank you sir for the info! :+1: I like the looks of both of those. But the FH11 is calling out to me. :money_mouth_face:

Here ya go, $24.60, not too shabby.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ganzo-Firebird-FH11-CF-D2-Steel-Carbon-Fiber-Bearing-Folding-Knife-US-Seller/183434681112?hash=item2ab58f1b18:g:AAkAAOSwOVlcCZBi:sc:USPSFirstClass![](63347)US!–1

Interesting what you say, about the brittle nature of the Japanese high end knives. They are certainly incredibly sharp. A friend of mine has one and when I tested it I was very impressed. But not for the price! He paid something like $225 for it. Hammered treatment to the blade and gorgeous hand made wooden handle. Do you have a link to what you’d consider a really good mid-priced high quality Japanese kitchen knife? Also, what’s your opinion on ceramic?

OK then, I’ll take your word for it. I’ve ordered one. :slight_smile:

:+1: … $10 well spent. :wink:

Had my Y-Start –02 D2 blade for a week or two.
Ganzo G733 came today.
It’s lighter by 1 gram, than the Y-Start.

BUT. while the blade flick is nice with that round hole
with good edge sharpness.
The 733 “Feels” flimsy, when handling them together at same time.

I love my Ganzo’s. but this Y-Start is a better knife (at a higher price)
than the Ganzo (Spyderco) copy.
A lot to do with it, is the scales on Ganzo. flat.
Scales on Y Start rounded.
If the 733 had arrived first. I would be more than happy.
but comparing it to the first arrival Y-Start.
There’s a little disappointment in there.
Shame.

Better/fuller grip. Feels a firmer more stable grip.
The little things can make a difference hey.
Plus the bearings and D2 steel.

Thank you for the link, I have one headed my way. :+1:
Good price too….

No problem. I hope you like yours as much as I like mine. Let us know what you think after you get to play with it.

I am looking forward to those Gocomma’s. Bought a few for myself and one for a friend.

Xevious.

Hard to recommend off the cuff. Too many metals and styles.

PS $225 is a fairly cheap one in the 7 to 10in range.

Myself I like. For general usage in Kitchen. A lot of Pro chef’s/kitchen use them on benches for general usage. AND they take it.
Tojiro DP…. Basic.
Then Mid range, Handle and blade materials to suit. 33/67 laminates next price. UP.
100 plus laninates mainly a novelty and out of price range too.

Another in $2/300ish range. Misoni in Swedish steel. Niice. (non Laminate)

Look up HOCHI Knives and read up on artisans and metals/styles.
It’s MORE addictive than these little things we see here.
But if you like your food and handling.
Magic…

But if you get serious. a fairly deep wallet.
I have over $4k purchase price in blades,
and around $3k of them sit in a dusty drawer. Be warned.

Practically. Unless you get into the aesthetics of them.
Most knives, quality and feel wise.
Can be covered by the, up to $250/300 Tojiro and Iseya.

Sakai Takayuki. Also good. Too MY eyes and feel. $250 UP (A lot up)
Just remember. Global Shun etc. just Western versions of Japanese.
with quality?? to suit.

Masamoto……… Really. there are too many. YOU need to read reviews of actual knife men (pro chef’s) and make your own (depth of pocket) mind up…
They ARE expensive if you go for the named and reputation versions.
Carbon. Stainless. Swedish. Mini/Multi Laminates.
I have a Misono and a Sakai Takayaki. around $450/500 ea. and remember these are the lower middle in price range.
For me. special occasions only. I mainly fondle and perve them. Beautiful like a great pr of tits and loooong legs hey.
You’ll be more than happy with mid price work knives from Tojiro DP and Misoni.
As long as profile and distance under handle suits YOUR grip.

PS. My brother has a hand made (for him) set of 3 blades 5 yrs ago
cost him over $4k Can. Be warned.
Don’t get to like them tooooo much OK.

PS Ceramics.
I have 1……
Novelty.

But if you have patience for the extra treatment/handling. they too Magic. But a prick to sharpen.
I’ve yet to get the handle on that.
Slide through cheese.
Apart from using wire, they the best for that.
11pm off to bed.