Thanks so much - although I’m looking at their website and their right-angle headlamps appear to be XHP70.2 and XHP35 HI, is it the TH20 driver? Feeling pretty dumb right about now.
It doesn’t look like it’s completely focused like maybe the head needs to be further out? I think there’s probably more room for gains cause the Z1 does a bit more. I see they have several other 67mm lights with different configs and this pill system.
The picture from my phone doesn’t show the tight hot spot. I modded it further with a White Flat that does some 345Kcd on an LD-4A at 5.5A. They offer the brass pill with other emitter choices, well a few, mainly XP-G2, for like $15 apiece. Should have gotten some, the pill is left hand thread…
Trees in the beam are at about 535 yards distance…
Newbie’s second mod… Put a XHP 50.2b 5700 (3V) from Cutter into a S2+ with FT medium spot TIR and swapped A17-DD. Hella hawt on turbo!!
Does it have an aespheric lens or reflector, Dale?
Seems a nice “thrower”!
It’s a fairly large aspheric. Looks pretty clear and free of bubbles or warps. Not AR coated like the Z1 glass though.
Thanks for the explanation and photos Dale!
Seems a nice light to mod as you did 
If it had a push-pull “zooming” function (B158 style) would be even nicer for some flood here and there!
Any possibility to post the link of purchase, in case I wanna give it a try, please? Thanks again
It has fast threads to screw out the head for zoom.
Ludicrous Lumens in Great Britain is where I got it. It’s apparently an Alpha and the model is Night Saber in 67mm, they have a 50mm as well.
Thanks so much Will give a look at it!!
De-tripled my Jetbeam TCR-01 last night. Previously it had 3x Olson Flat White with Carclo 10507 optic. Now it has 1x XPL HI 4000K 5A2 with orange peel reflector.
The new setup produces a more pleasing beam. However the light doesn’t look as unique aesthetically.
First time I’ve de-tripled a light.
I've been taking my long, sweet time for this one but when I saw the Luminus SST-40, I knew it would be going into this large plastic, OP/SMO reflector, Utilitech thrower:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqeZmZFhBiGK3EGnMCKsGQwQWWBl
I had to file down the star a bit and tapped screws to ensure heat went into the body in the hope it wouldn't get too hot and destroy the reflector.
I'm trying the linear driver first and perhaps, I'll bump up output with a FET driver.
Nice battery spacer.
Uh, yeah, about that spacer… you want to always put the spacer behind the cell not in front of it. The reason for this is that if the spacer manages to short against the body if it’s at the rear it will only cause the light to come on, bypassing the switch. If it’s in front of the cell it’s positive and a short will not be good, at the very least damaging your light and causing it to not function…
Thank you! It's super simple but I just use what's on hand and whatever pops in my head.
It can be a good heat sink as well.
Great point! I learned a lot from the Cometa discussions. This light came with a foam spacer. Just to make sure, I'll add some electrical tape around the caps. Card board sleeves stop the rattle.
Truth be told, the copper will anodize and reduce transmission… you’ll have to periodically clean the ends with something like De-Oxit Gold.
Anodize
Solder blobs to the rescue?
It's bizarre that the inside of the cap stays shiny but the outside oxidizes. I scraped the patina and took some DMM measurements just to check on performance.
Solder blobs blacken and also increase resistance. Believe me, I deal with it all the time. I normally use aluminum quarter inch rod to make dummy cells, with a Delrin body. But solder blobbed high discharge cells continually have to be cleaned to maintain low internal resistance and high power.
In the link above, you'll see two other lights I upgraded. One of them being this Husky: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqeZmZFhBiGKhEXGtjRD_lAAUS_S
I replaced the driver, LED and reflector. The original LED was an XPG 3 and it now has an XHP 50. The old reflector was plastic and it melted with all the heat. The new C8 reflector needed a little OD grinding reduction and works great. It also holds the MCPCB so in this case, I don't think screws will be needed to ensure good thermal transfer. It gets hot fast!