Xevious.
You May be lucky with that one.
But the Steel itself.is not the be all.
It’s the heat treatment and rolling that makes them.
Never used Jap b4. they feel like magic. For a while.
200 layers of real steel with a reasonable Smith would cost you a starting price of $250+.
There are a zillion Chinese and otherwise (European.Eastern) MFG’s, retailers nowadays.
ALL flashy, multi layer blades. but ALL built to their price.
Not the quality. Some look beautiful. as desired.
Do yourself a favour. For Western steel and cutting knives.
Wusthof. Brazilian Mundial. and French Scanpan if you don’t mind extra sharpening. (Beautiful handles)
They the ones I’ve stuck to over the yrs.
There are others preferred by others too.
The Shun. Global etc, are Western Japanese blades.
Exxy and niice looking. but for same $$’s you can get much better quality .feel. cutting. Actual true Japanese blades.
There are several Internet Jap blade dealers on net. But Hocho is the better,
real one. Next to actually going there yourself.
They have 6 months PLUS. of information on Japanese. Steel. Knives. Knife makers and how to sharpen. Use, and maintain the different steels.
With a decent grading on the Bladesmiths in there too.
With types of blade/Handle for EACH Cutting style.
and what to look out for.
White or Blue Powder alloy blends give usually the best Carbon steel.
You want a “cleaver” Go Chinese.
You can go forever on these things. And you thought Folders gave an interest.
They just the tip of it. Then Fixed.
Then Real knives… We have around 8 or 9 Kitchen knives here.
Wife uses 2. Occasionally the 10 in.
Me. I use 3 in the 3. 6. and 7in range. One Wusthof 8in Chef.
.Plus the 10 in. ( and chain Saw…chuckle)
I been doing it a looong time. MOST will get away with a
5 or 6in Petty and a 7in Santoku, or 6- 8in Chef. Some the 10+ inch.
a $5 Paring. and maybe a H/Duty something or other for Pumpkins etc.
I find Meatworks blades the best for that last job. Basic and reliable with decent.
Hard working steel.(Mine cost $11 AUD Del. Now is $17 DEL).
I’ve been through all the sharpening styles, Mostly. WET.Whet round etc.
Have settled on decent quality Diamond plates. (DMT) with 2 x Diamond Flat steels for finishing. 600 and smooth (Meat or vegies)
With a sliding rod system that gives even. Selected Angle,
level face to cutting edges.
You get a little fed up rubbing. rubbing. rubbing with wet hands after 50 odd yrs.
Believe me. I did.
GENTLE… With decent diamond. NEVER coarse.
Done in fraction of time and “Almost (But never quite) a finished edge to match.
I’m happy with it.
I can press my blades against finger tips and draw blood without slicing.
My strop.is a leather ”3in x 3\8th “Donkey Pack Strap” I brought out of Army with me in early ’60’s.
Oiled about 5 times so far. WAS 8ft long. Now. around 40inches.
Too short for my belly now.
I won’t touch a field knife without tang, and/or shaped handle grip with cut out for at least one finger.
Been bitten too many times by narrow blade straight sided folders with wet/Bloody, etc hands.
That Go Comma a nice little blade. But I’d be wiping a thin layer of clear Sikaflex down both scales to give a little more traction for your pinkies.
My G733 Ganzo. grows on you after a coupla days and a hinge (Teflon) oil
BUT. I find the inside flicking rivet “nips” the first finger tip area when closing.
Too close to handle, . OR too tall.
I’m grinding mine down this arvo to try.
I DO like the blade now.
WHOOPS.
SORRY.
753M Nipping. NOT the 733. Late night again.