Jetbeam RRT-01 and Niteye Eye10 rotaries, LED mods, beams, lumens

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jon_slider
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Jetbeam RRT-01 and Niteye Eye10 rotaries, LED mods, beams, lumens

Three Rotaries

three side by side beamshots, for color comparisons
Eye10 triple N219b 3500k 9080, RRT-01 N219b 4500k 9080, Eye10 XM-L 6000k

On left below, a Titanium Eye10 TiC w triple N219a 4500k 9050, note it is yellower than the 219b 3500k 9080 above:

Eye10 Triple N219b 3500k 9080

outputs on a fresh 16340:

HDS rotary modded to n219b 3500k 9080 makes 170 lumens
Niteye Eye10 TiC Titanium rotary w triple N219a 4500k 9050 makes 306 lumens
Jetbeam TCR-1 Titanium rotary, converted to n219b 4500k 9080 makes 350 lumens
Niteye Eye10 rotary, w triple N219b 3500k 9080 makes 360 lumens
Jetbeam RRT-01 rotary converted to n219b 4500k 9080 makes 395 lumens
Niteye Eye10 with the stock 6000k XM-L makes 635 lumens

Jetbeam compared to HDS, some differences
The Jetbeam Rotaries have much lower low than HDS.

The Jetbeam RRT-01 rotary has smooth ramping, not 24 hops up in brightness like HDS, of which 12 are below 2 lumens and only 2 are above 100 lumens. 

The Jetbeam rotary has a bezel down pocket clip that does not interfere w the rotary dial.

The Jetbeam rotary is smaller, lighter, and lower priced than HDS, and accepts 18350, that HDS will not.

The Jetbeam rotary has no tailswitch, and the dial is not on the tail.

The size, weight, price, ergonomics and UI of the Jetbeam are better for me than HDS.

Edited by: jon_slider on 04/10/2019 - 04:01
SKV89
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Thanks Jon for another excellent post. Is the Eye 10 219b 3500k the only rotary in this collection? If so I’m surprised it still makes less lumens than the single emitter RRT-01 with the 219b 4500k.

jon_slider
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Thanks for the kind words of support, it means a lot to me

All the lights are rotaries,
two are triples

the output of the triple 219b 3500k 9080, falls right between the two samples of single 219b 4500k 9080.
It seems lower CCT makes less lumens, and the triple brings it back up a bit to essentially match the 219b 4500k 9080 (if we average the two samples)

the triple 219a 4500k 9050 has the lowest lumens among the magnetic rotaries

the HDS w 219b 3500k 9080 has the lowest output. The circuit it lower power than the five magnetic rotaries (Jetbeam/Niteye, which all share essentially the same driver). HDS output is essentially about half that of the other five lights.

.

and here is a test of how many lumens it takes to hide a shadow with a triple vs a single led in a reflector

I have no way to measure actual throw, but Im guesstimating the triple throws half as far. otoh it also illuminates more than double the area

.

Here is an outdoor shot, the single LED at 430 lumens throws a narrower beam, farther than the triple at 310 lumens (battery is not fully charged):

although the hotspot of the single LED is brighter, smaller, and throws farther, it also makes more glare.
I prefer the wider beam of the triple for close range and indoors, the single LED for outdoors at distances over 30 feet.

I prefer the 4500k for daytime EDC, and the 3500k for nightime.

jon_slider
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SKV89 wrote:
Is the Eye 10 219b 3500k the only [triple] in this collection? If so I’m surprised it still makes less lumens than the single emitter RRT-01 with the 219b 4500k.

note I edited in the word triple above, the original post said rotary, but I think that was a typo

More data points

Pink wrapper 18350 Keepower 1200mAh
the Eye10 w triple N219b 3500k 9080 makes 455 lumens on a freshly charged Keepower 1200mAh 18350
the RRT-01 w single N219b 4500k 9080 makes 410 lumens on the same battery

Black wrapper 18350 Keepower 1200mAh
the Eye 10 w triple N219b 3500k 9080 makes 425 lumens on a freshly charged Keepower 1200mAh 18350
the RRT-01 w single N219b 4500k 9080 makes 440 lumens on the same battery

When the batteries drop below 3.5 volts, the outputs drop to approximately 250 lumens. This characteristic makes it possible to estimate battery voltage without opening the light, instead using a light meter.

MascaratumB
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The “rotary bug” bit you (happily) hard Wink
Nice collection growing there mate Cool

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

jon_slider
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MascaratumB wrote:
The “rotary bug” bit you (happily) hard Wink
Nice collection growing there mate Cool

Thanks, its all your fault.. LOL

for anyone interested, stop by and vote in these polls:

poll about new and old model preferences
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66721

poll about pocket clip length preferences
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66722

rost333
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jon_slider wrote:

I really like those colors Wink

jon_slider
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rost333 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:

I really like those colors Wink


thank you for taking the time to post kind words
I agree, it is my EDC, the original model RRT-01, in the middle:

I have found a source for those that is willing to give a discount for a bulk order, and Im thinking of organizing to have some modded to triple and single N219b. If anyone is interested, PM me and I will share details. My goal is to share my love of High CRI Rotaries..

there will also be other offerings from Clemence, of the new model RRT-01, and there are options also from Vinh..

its a good time to be looking for a High CRI Rotary! Thumbs Up

Cathode Flats
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Jon,

Collection is looking good! Thanks for the comparisons between the triple and single emitters. I recently purchased and quickly sold a HDS Rotary .

jon_slider
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thanks for the compliments, this is a very fun time for me, and it makes me happy to share it with you and others who find the info useful

I also sold my HDS Rotary soon after I got it, mostly because I was only getting 170 lumens from a 3500k 219b, and there was the typical ring in the outer spill beam. I admit that cost was also a factor, Ive decided the RRT-01 does everything I need, for less money. I also highly value the option to use 18350, that HDS lacks. Im getting 450 lumens on my triple 3500k 219b Eye10, from an 18350. With 16340 I get 365 lumens, more than double the HDS.

The most important reason, why I choose the RRT-01 over the HDS, is that the RRT-01 has much lower lows, which I find very useful, or at least very fun to find reasons to use them. Wink

To be fair
HDS Rotaries have one feature I wish my RRT-01 had, low battery warning.
HDS Rotaries can be operated as multi click 4 mode lights, and the 4 levels can be customized, if a clicky UI is desired.

.

fwiw, Novatacs are a much cheaper way to learn the HDS Clicky UI, if anyone is interested, PM me or check my threads. I have lots of experience to share. I also have two Novatacs modded to N219b 4500k, one of them gives me 200 lumens of High CRI, and both have the low battery warnings and blinky modes that HDS offers.

And for people that want a taiswitch, like HDS, in addition to a rotary dial, I recommend the Sunwayman V11r, which is compatible with the same batteries HDS can use, plus the V11r is AA and 14500 compatible.

Not all rotaries have the smooth infinitely variable ramping of the RRT-01, here are a few variations on rotaries:

Tally-ho
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One of the advantages of the Sunwayman V10R is that you can set the output level with the rotary and use the switch for momentary.

I like rotary flashlights for the ability to adjust the desired output instantly, I also appreciate ramping UI but not as much as rotary which is the “real thing” and not as much as the Novatac/HDS UI with combinations of clicks to navigate through your programmed outputs levels.

Just a matter of preference for the most appropriate tool to perform something.

I’m still using my HDS clicky with Seoul SSC P4 high-CRI. It’s only 100 lumens with a (ringless) very particular beam. A rosy hotspot a bit above 4000K with a yellow corona but not pissy yellow which you only notice white wall hunting, and an amber/orange spill around 3000K.
The hotspot and corona make things popping up like 3D and the warmer spill makes things looking good too. When I want to stare at things and to their colors i’m always illuminating with the hotspot, then with the spill, then back with the hotspot, again and again to stare and also to memorize how things look like with this flashlight. This one will be the last I will mod or sell.
I never found this combinations of UI, high-CRI and particular beam anywhere else. The best and useful tint shift so far.
I don’t like its size though and it no longer tailstand since I changed the original flat rubber boot (cracked) with a protruding rubber boot.

It’s probably a rarity now, most were modded probably, But if you find one for cheap, buy it…or let me know, I will be eternally grateful. Big Smile

N.B. : I should add that I like tint shift in the unpopular flashlight opinion thread and also that I’m not so found of the ramping UI but I rever ToyKeeper’s works and initiatives too much to bother with this + I can’t deny that it is the best alternative to rotary, which is nice.
Ramping UI is a masterpiece in itself viewed under this perspective.

jon_slider
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Tally-ho wrote:
One of the advantages of the Sunwayman V10R is that you can set the output level with the rotary and use the switch for momentary.

I agree, if someone wants a memory mode, the Sunwayman tailswitch can do that.

On my RRT-01 I can simulate memory by locking out the light by unscrewing the body a half turn, then turn on again without changing the dial position.

sent you a PM with a link to a Novatac

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I finally got around to modding my original RRT-01. I drilled the off hole slightly bigger to increase lockout. It only gave me a slight improvement, I might see if I can add a higher tension spring if I take it apart again.
I resistor modded the driver by adding a .100 ohm to the .050 ohm original for .033 ohms.
I used a sliced LH351D 5000k 90 cri for the emitter swap on a copper Noctigon filed down to fit. Djozz sliced a LH351C 5000k 90cri led and tested it to be slightly below the BBL line and a shift of 4300k. It’s amazing that slicing this white led can shift it to such a nice 4300k slightly rosy tint. I like the 5000k sliced over the 4000k doomed. The beam hotspot is nicer, more fuzzy blended but I got the famous Jetbeam reflector rings in he spill. It’s really not that bad though unless it’s close up white wall hunting.

With the resistor mod and the 20% loss from silicing I got 630 lumens OTF in my lumen tube. So that’s roughly around 800 lumens if you choose the domed led using a Keeppower 18350. Thanks djozz for testing a sliced 5000k LH351C, made a huge difference.

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moderator007 wrote:
I finally got around to modding my original RRT-01.

I resistor modded the driver by adding a .100 ohm to the .050 ohm original for .033 ohms.
I used a sliced LH351D 5000k 90 cri for the emitter swap on a copper Noctigon filed down to fit.

I like the 5000k sliced over the 4000k doomed. The beam hotspot is nicer, more fuzzy blended but I got the famous Jetbeam reflector rings in he spill. It’s really not that bad though unless it’s close up white wall hunting.

With the resistor mod and the 20% loss from slicing I got 630 lumens OTF in my lumen tube.

congrats!

if I understand…
you dropped resistane by 34% to increase brightness
that offset the ~40% drop in brightness from the High CRI and dedomed LED

and you ended up with the same output as the stock XM-L

.

win win win

.

Do you have any info on an alternate reflector, to get rid of the rings in the beam?

I suppose Im going to have to try one of those LH351d at some point
thanks for you comments on the fuzzy hotspot and pink tint too..
Wish there was a photo, next to an SW45 Wink

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I may take it back apart in a day or two. This time I’ll try not to forget to measure the reflector, I hope. Big Smile
I think the rings are caused by the extra lip at the bottom of the reflector. Its like a 2mm high tube at the bottom of the reflector.
I don’t see much way of improving it without replacing it. If you file off the tube space that probably help but then the reflectors to short and will not apply pressure to the mcpcb.

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moderator007 wrote:
I think the rings are caused by the extra lip at the bottom of the reflector.

I look forward to learning what works.
fwiw, on the New RRT-01, which does not have the rings in the reflector itself, Im told the beam has no rings issues.

see
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1490810#comment-1490810