TK's Emisar D18 review -- 3x18650 photon grenade

Would aux have been nice as an option? Sure. But I bet it would’ve raised the price do to the extra difficulty already mentioned.

I’m sure someone will figure out a way to rig it up, or something similar anyway. Lexel is probably already contemplating how to do it.

If nobody comes up with anything, I’ll just do the HAL 9000 lol

In the pics it looked like G10 composite to me, not aluminum. G10 would allow aux LEDs to glow through nicely, and I don’t see how scratching would be an issue with it being under the lens. If aluminum has to be used for some reason, additional holes could be drilled for the AUX LEDs to shine through.

I’ve seen the pics. It’s hard to tell without a light in my hands, but it looks like some light would still get up between the lenses and the lens holder plate. Light could maybe get up into the lens reflectors too (like Lexel has done with the D1 and D1s). Can’t tell from pics how tight the tolerances are.

I get it if you don’t want/like aux LEDs, but these issues aren’t that difficult to overcome.

(Edit: taking an even closer look, the lens holder plate still looks like g10 to me. Review also states that it is “thin pcb”.)

:slight_smile:

The aux LED question is the main reason why I showed that part of the light in so much detail.

… and also so I won’t have to open it up again to get details later.

I haven’t seen one yet and TK’s pics do look like it’s a pcb material but Hank used aluminum in the M43, which I am quite familiar with. At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material. Even IF there were space on the MCPCB for such an LED to be placed… perhaps around the outer periphery? Don’t know, it’d be tight. Maybe small outlet holes could be put in the cover plate to allow something to show? Again, complex but doable and at a price I’m sure. (I don’t really care either way, not something I’d add and I may be prone to turn it off it were in the factory light)

As far as a clear one would go, assembly would be apt to scratch it up.

Some of my lights would strip themselves if I gave em a shiny brass pole, they’ve been bared so many times already. :stuck_out_tongue:

FWIW, a buddy of mine has a D18 en-route and I will be putting Samsung emitters in it for him. The W6 5000K emitters are here already…. :smiley: We’ll see how/where that goes. …

G10 comes in many colors and thicknesses, including clear. The one in the D18 looks pretty thin, could probably even see through.

This is the G10 I’m thinking of. I’ve worked with stuff that is even less green and more of an opaque white.

That is thin G10, nice & opaque too…. :+1:

It lets light through about as well as a sheet of black paperboard. Which is to say… it doesn’t.

Is that an exaggeration or is it a joke?

I’m guessing neither. Just the truth… it does not let light through.

It must do because I can see the table surface through it.

That is not the material that is being used in the D18. :wink:

Thanks for that teacher :+1: that’s cleared that up , I thought it was probly a joke as I could clearly see through it ,tinterweb & forum talk can be a bit confusing at times.

No problem my friend, glad to be of assistance. :beer:
Things certainly can be confusing at times… I agree. :wink:

What I was trying to say is that the material I posted in the pic, in the same thickness as the spacer board in the D18, would probably be see through. As you can see in the pic I posted, the table is clearly visible through the thinner sheets.

So, uh.. I may have went ahead and went with the HAL 9000 mod.. only RGB :D

Edit: here's a YouTube link of it in action.

Basically I put an extra Attiny85 in there, who's sole purpose is to drive a single WS2812B emitter.

It was originally supposed to look like this:

It was great because the positive and negative of the Attiny85 matched the WS2812B perfectly, according to the schematic, which was wrong. The Emitters poles were actually the opposite, so I had to flip or around and run the data line over the back. Much less elegant:

But it worked. I did clean this one up a bit more before installing it, but you get the idea.

The speed of the rainbow effect can be sped or slowed by setting parameters at compile time. There are other effects in the code I found, too.

I have no idea of the current draw, I suspect it is somewhat high, because the Attiny85 is running at 8mhz nonstop to drive the signal fast enough to control the WS2812B, but I don't have anything sensitive enough to measure it.

Very nice! :sunglasses:

Was the schematic wrong or is the chip upside down, reversing the layout?

At any rate, neat idea… I fail to see the reason for it but still it’s out-of-the-box thinking…

The schematic was just wrong, the data in and out pins were in the right place, but the notch in the corner should’ve been positive but it was negative, and negative was positive.

I’m embarrassed to say it took me more than I couple minutes to figure it out. I thought I was damaging them when removing them from the strip I was harvesting the from.

Thanks, yeah I like it. I figured if I was only gonna have one single emitter, then I should do something fancy with it. There’s juuust enough room to get it all in there.

Quite happy with my SST20 3000K. Loving the size and construction.

It’s not too yellow in tint even at 1x7135 and gets better on higher modes when it warms up. Turbo is pretty much perfect.