@alberto:
You need a soldering iron with a large, flat tip, high wattage and, if possible, a tip with integrated heating element to solder the driver to the pill reliably.
I made a 18650 S2+ triple SST20 FET driver, with a*18500* Jaxman tube
I know this isn’t new, but I postponed this mod for at least 2 years, so I’m quite proud to have FINALLY took the time t do it
From left to right :
Convoy S2 triple with 18650 tube
Convoy S2+ triple with *18500*tube and 18650 battery
Emisar D4 18650
Convoy S2+ 18350 with tube
Comparison pic between how far the pill screws down in the head. I used an S2 pill in the S2+ head (S2 pill is like 5mm shorter than S2+ one) and grinded some of the threads to allow it to screw farther. There’s no edge on the top of the pille either, it’s filed flat with a wet 1000 grit finish to get good thermal contact.
I used an BLF FET driver and it heats as fast as my D4… pulls around 13A from a 30Q battery.
Nice job X3. I did it by chopping off the top of the original pill in two pieces and soldering the ledboard on the now open end. So I had no shelf for soldering the ledboard onto but the edges are so fat, almost under the leds, that it is thermally still very sound.
Modified my cheap “18 watt” 6-LED light bar that I put on my mower for late-night mowing (or snow removal).
Swapped out the cool white XB-D LEDs for 5000K high-bin XB-H ones (XB-H is a XP-G2 on a 2.45x2.45mm substrate) Despite it being a 5 year old LED, I think it’s the newest and brightest for that footprint. I also swapped the R180 sense resistor for an R120 for perhaps 50% more current. Hopefully it can handle that.
I also took my dead EagTac D25C Ti and replaced the driver with a moonlight special. I went with 6x 7135s, and "Moonlight--->2%-->33%-->100%" as the mode order. I treat the 100% as a Turbo, and the 33% as a high mode, and the two are actually pretty close in brightness off my 650mAh Olight RCR123A. I also replaced the rear switch with a Omtem 1288 small reverse-clicky for convenient mode changes. No twisting for me.
This had previously been equipped with a Mtn-17DD fet driver, which was single-mode 100%. The driver was dead when I got it. I'm not sure what the switch was, but in testing it felt like a reverse-clicky with crappy functionality, but it may also have been forward. I just couldn't get it to cycle modes at all with that switch. It also came to me with XPL-HI V2 1A, which I like a lot. In such a small reflector, it kind of needs the HI in my opinion. The reflector also has a very slight OP texture.
The spring on my Moonlight Special driver was very stiff and too long for the host, and I ran into issues. I didn't have a good replacement (a very short brass button would have been ideal), especially with the driver being two-sided. So I stuffed it farther down into the pill instead of using the press-fit brass ring, and soldered it to the sides of the pill. It works great now, and I'm never gonna swap that driver anyway unless Zebralight starts selling stand-alone drivers as parts. I'm really happy with it now, as I'd started carrying my Olight S1 as a "backup" EDC to my normal 18650-rotation, and while this is larger (and comically close in size to my SC62), I can't resist the nerd-metal aspect of having a Titanium carry.
Unless you shorted something that current should be fine. You sure you didn’t have dirt on it? Before u trash it scrub it with alcohol and try again without the head on it
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I didn't run it very long on high power, less than 15 seconds per "burst". I have another white flat that I accidentally bought on a 16mm mcpcb a while back, and if this one is truly dead I'll just reflow it over.
I made this contraption to be able to measure leds at a precise angle. The bottom section is a rotation stage that I bought on aliexpress, the rest is custom made. The middle section (the black painted aluminium thing) is made such that the led is almost exactly on the rotation axis. But it is all made with hand tools while it should be done with an end mill, so the centering is not sub-mm precise. Still it should be good enough for what I want with it.
This thing is planned to be fixed onto a rail of some kind.
I’m not sure what I want it exactly for, tint measurements I guess, it was mainly fun to make it. But it could be used for rather cumbersome led output measurements too, as a hand-operated goniophotometer.
The Sofirn C01 in the picture is for size reference.
Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET
MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd
In the spirit of “Because it was there” I put 4 White Flats in an E07 along with 3 stock XP-L HI emitters. Reduced the hot spot, increased the hot. lol
We are under warning for severe supercell storms with possible softball sized hail and even tornado’s, supposed to be a huge amount of wind, lightning, and some localized flooding possible. So to get prepared, I am running 8 lights with Anduril in Lightning mode, from a few hundred lumens to 21,300.
TK-05, 2 E07’s, Ham’r, EOD20, SP03, and GT Mini as well as my Meteor. These are on the shelves in front of and above me, quite a show!
I would say to look at the 7135 for that dim glow, the MOSFET is turned off at low levels so any power coming through has to be due to the 7135 leaking. (gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)