It does depend on the magnet though, some stick better than others. I coincidentally bought a batch (3x5mm) that makes the C01 easily stick in all positions.
As I mentioned earlier, not many are able to measure the strength of the magnetism of these magnets, so sellers get away with everything, so in good ol’ chinese tradition everything is indeed what they sell. In Europe we have supermagnete.de, not that more expensive than Fasttech or Banggood, that makes a point of actually selling what they claim, and I have never got bad magnets from them.
I spotted that tip about using wax paper and resting metal on the top so that the magnet sets flush to the end — that’s a really good idea. Wish I’d seen it earlier. Mine sits maybe 0.25 mm below the surface, but the magnet still holds pretty strongly. It’ll only work with it on raw exposed metal (painted will work, but it slips) and it will naturally pivot to put the magnet at 12 o’clock.
The magnets feel very strong, and they’re difficult to separate. So I’m convinced they’re decent quality.
I tried to dissolve the super glue with acetone, but it’s not getting in behind the magnet… so it won’t come out. I expect I’d have to drill into it to break it, then pull the pieces out.
Thanks. I don’t know how much stronger they’ll be compared to the ones I already have. Can you adhere the light to metal with the magnet positioned at 6 o’clock?
Sofirn just posted a message on Facebook that the final 30 lights of the Original C01 (color red, 5600K) will be sold on Amazon.com for 6.50 USD.
—> Link
If the magnet wasn’t a tight fit there’s no need to drill it, just heat the tube up… Cyanoacrylate releases/breaks down/softens/whatever at higher temperatures.
Depending on the grade it’s strength retention drops to 50% somewhere in the neighbourhood of 80-120*C. Couple hundred degrees celsius should drop it well below 20%. Sure there’s High Temp grades out there as well but I highly doubt you used such a glue.
Djozz, thanks for the pointer.
That bare aluminum look :heart_eyes:
I am going to dress up at least one 5mm-C01 head with a bare aluminum SST20-C01-BLF body :sunglasses:
Also great Sofirn adds a BLF marking to give credit to the origin of the design.
You could carefully (gloves, eye protection, outdoors…) give your C01 a bath in lye (drain cleaner / sodium hydroxide / etc) to strip off the anodizing for a bare-aluminum finish. Just apply some petroleum jelly or something to any areas where you don’t want it intruding (threads, in the reflector area, etc) and then just clean it off after the bath.
It sounds like a good idea. However, a single mode twisty seems less practical for a larger light. Another ui may not differentiate itself. Unsure how this would be implemented.
The stock UI of this light is already perfect its just the stock LED that can be greatly improve with a Luminus SST-20 95CRI and maybe a new unique color as a bonus?
I think Omega_17 is suggesting a BLF-edition SP10 V2, not a AA version of the C01.
That could be a high CRI emitter, and possibly a different firmware. Unfortunately, Narsil or Anduril would probably require a different driver, which is more work for Sofirn, and would likely mean 14500 batteries only - no AA support.