Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

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DB Custom
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Throw is surprisingly decent, in spite of a few things that induced misgivings. Sheer output can do that, a longer distance lux measurement will be interesting.

Tom, have you had an opportunity to run it long enough to get a feel for the thermal properties? The design certainly looks adequate, just wondering if it works in reality as it appears it should.

Satan@103TFS
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Wow that impressive wonder can it hit 10K.

cncyana
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JasonWW wrote:
cncyana wrote:
1) How did you remove the internal spring without removing the external spring? 2) Did you do this to make room for the longer 20700 cells or for greater current flow or both? 3) I assumed both springs are current paths, in which case removing one spring and adding a bypass wire gives no net gain in current flow? 4) I wonder if placing a wire connecting both ends of each spring to each other would also do the same thing? This may first require stretching/pulling the end of the internal spring upward to meet the outer spring.
1. You do have to remove both. Then you put the big one back on. 2. and 3. You may or may not gain room. It depends on how big the wire is and how it’s positioned. You definitely reduce resistance and gain current because even two springs are still quite long when you straighten them. The bypass wire is pure copper and short. 4. There is no benefit, see above.

Ok, makes sense. Thank you for the info!

Life’s Questions/Answers here: http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp “So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.” Romans 14:12

cncyana
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Tom E wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
cncyana wrote:
1) How did you remove the internal spring without removing the external spring? 2) Did you do this to make room for the longer 20700 cells or for greater current flow or both? 3) I assumed both springs are current paths, in which case removing one spring and adding a bypass wire gives no net gain in current flow? 4) I wonder if placing a wire connecting both ends of each spring to each other would also do the same thing? This may first require stretching/pulling the end of the internal spring upward to meet the outer spring.
1. You do have to remove both. Then you put the big one back on. 2. and 3. You may or may not gain room. It depends on how big the wire is and how it’s positioned. You definitely reduce resistance and gain current because even two springs are still quite long when you straighten them. The bypass wire is pure copper and short. 4. There is no benefit, see above.

1.  I did not have to remove the outer spring. Here’s what I did:



  • For the tail side I used my hot air station and tweezers. The hot air, like at 360C, got it softened up enough to remove the inner without effecting the outer. Basically while applying the hot air, I applied steady leverage on pulling up on the inner spring. It came off eventually.

  • For the driver side, I didn’t want to risk the hot air, in case SMD’s would loosen on the driver component side. I realized it really didn’t matter if I damaged the traces under the inner springs, so I bent the inner spring to get it’s head out between rings of the outer spring, then worked it further out, bending the inner metal so I could apply enough pressure to pull the inner off the traces. I also used a thin screwdriver type tool to pry the spring off it’s soldering to the board trace. There was a little damage to the traces but not much. I’ve used this technique on many Q8’s, but this SP70’s inner spring are little more stiff and stubborn, but overall it didn’t take very long.


 


2. Did it for greater current flow and avoiding spring melting, but was hoping it would result in fitting 700 long cells easier


3. Nope – a 20 AWG wire is wayyyy better, much lower resistance than a typical spring. If these were high grade springs (Be/Cu for example), then the wire might not make much difference but probably still better – I don’t know the exact #‘s, so can only guess.


4. I’m having trouble visualizing what you are saying, but the high resistance of springs is the coils. Connecting the tops or bottoms wont help. If you take a spring, stretch it fully out, it’s very long, and usually is coated steel, and since steel is a poor conductor, most of the elctrcial flow is thru the coating which is a thin layer. Under compression, the resistance length is greatly reduced since the coils make contact. This is why long cells seem to do better than shorter cells – I saw and measured this with the 20700’s compared to the 26650’s.

Quite the procedure! Thank you!

Life’s Questions/Answers here: http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp “So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.” Romans 14:12

Tom E
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DB Custom wrote:
Throw is surprisingly decent, in spite of a few things that induced misgivings. Sheer output can do that, a longer distance lux measurement will be interesting. Tom, have you had an opportunity to run it long enough to get a feel for the thermal properties? The design certainly looks adequate, just wondering if it works in reality as it appears it should.

Yea, I agree - does throw pretty decent. My #'s taken at 5m too, and it's a non-treated glass lens, but who knows - it still may perform well I recall the Q8 lens did well in clear, not much of a bump goin to a UCL/p. Didn't run it long, but even after the 30 secs and the throw tests, it feels a bit toasty, but really can't tell til it's really run continuously for a few mins.

Didn't mention this yet, the finning is nice but has some sharp edges. It doesn't appear to be a high qual anodizing because I can see some marks on those sharp edges. I suppose at this price and this size, I wouldn't expect much better. Kind of reminds of the old TrustFire J-18's, AK-47's, etc., but the threads are definitely nicer.

But don't get me wrong, overall I really like this light, lots of power and great UI even stock. I gotta look into changing the LED though to something more NW.

This turned out really good! I think we have to thank Jason for pursuing it with Sofirn, not sure of others were involved, but --

 

Thanks Jason!

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Ok, some more info:

Just ran a 3 minute turbo test, temps taken on the outside:

  • 1 min: 33C
  • 2 mins: 42C
  • 3 mins 49C, and it stepped down, but dbl click brought it back up

 

The wires were easy to come off from using the bigger iron tip and 750C temps.

Driver pics:

Looks like a fairly simple design, might be equal to a FET+1 because that 3 legged part near the bottom appears to go out to the LED- side, same as the FET does. Looks like we could get a bump with a FET swap, perhaps.

The CTKS part is probably the LDO, but didn't trace it out yet.

Tom E
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The MCPCB is actually 42 mm x 1.5 mm. Back side is pretty smooth, no burrs, good amt of thermal grease, though I'd still prefer MX-4 in there. Shelf looks ok but didn't test it for flatness yet. I still would guess the wires are 18 AWG. I think the FET is the NXP MtnE sells here.

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NW tint I will probably purchase!

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I took some pictures of SP70 beam last evening. Do you notice the boats of the 2nd picture? It's dragon boats preparing for Duanwu festival celebration.

 

By the way, SP70 alone and bundle are available on amazon.com now! They are on sale as new release. For a bettery price, please contact sofirn for code!

 

 

 

Find FREE items on my timeline.

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Yourrid
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What is the driver diameter?

Tom E
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Yourrid wrote:
What is the driver diameter?

30.07 mm, without the 2 bump outs.

 

I got 5700K P2's from Arrow, but the 4000K P2's at $7.43 each, even in qty 1, free shipping, is the sweet deal for this light.

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Hello

* UPDATE 04/22/2019 *

Sofirn SP70 Set and SP70 Only are pre-order on AMAZON US with lower sale price. Flashlight set only $69.99 and flashlight only just $59.59!
Please contact us@sofirnlight.com or PM us on this forum directly to get one with $50!


Relampago
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Code please! Thank you!

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

cncyana
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Any concern for tailswitch failure?

What is the replacement part number/link for tailswitch and rubber boot?

Life’s Questions/Answers here: http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp “So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.” Romans 14:12

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Thanks for all the info Tom if it has your approval its a winner Big Smile

The project lost track but turned out okay i wonder what it would do with a SMO reflector.

teacher
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cncyana wrote:
Any concern for tailswitch failure?
Nope… no concern at all. I fact a tail switch is ‘probably’ less likely to fail than an electronic side switch.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Tom E
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teacher wrote:
cncyana wrote:
Any concern for tailswitch failure?
Nope... no concern at all. I fact a tail switch is _'probably'_ less likely to fail than an electronic side switch.

Don't have a pic of it, but the tailswitch is huge, looks like one of those 6 amp ones. For me, the addition of a tailswitch is always adding another unnecessary point of failure and added resistance, but it does have some functionality that some prefer. On this SP70, turning it on turns the main LED on to it's last level.

DB Custom
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Tail switch off, zero parasitic drain. Wink

Tom E
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DB Custom wrote:
Tail switch off, zero parasitic drain. ;)

Yep, same as a twist of the tail, though I'm not fond of doing that frequently. Ideally if the parasitic drain was low enough, wouldn't have to care, but wondering if the switch LED accounts for most of the drain because it's pretty darn bright - too bright really.

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I wonder if RMM’s 30mm FET driver (built for the L6) would pump out different numbers compared to the stock SP70 driver?

Will the SP70 ramp up out of moonlight mode? For instance, from OFF – Press and hold. Tom E said it goes to moonlight mode, but does it ramp up as well?

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Tom E wrote:

teacher wrote:
cncyana wrote:
Any concern for tailswitch failure?
Nope... no concern at all. I fact a tail switch is _'probably'_ less likely to fail than an electronic side switch.

Don't have a pic of it, but the tailswitch is huge, looks like one of those 6 amp ones. For me, the addition of a tailswitch is always adding another unnecessary point of failure and added resistance, but it does have some functionality that some prefer. On this SP70, turning it on turns the main LED on to it's last level.

Not the UI I prefer. I'd really like the tailswitch to just be a power cut-off. The "power-on" indicator should be the side-switch light. 

I'm very tempted to re-flash my L6 because it has the D4 UI and a lighted switch, and I no longer need the turn-on blink. But I'm sure I'll break something if I open it again, and I've yet to flash a single driver (or have the parts to) anyway.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
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Tom E
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Yourrid wrote:
I wonder if RMM's 30mm FET driver (built for the L6) would pump out different numbers compared to the stock SP70 driver? Will the SP70 ramp up out of moonlight mode? For instance, from OFF - Press and hold. Tom E said it goes to moonlight mode, but does it ramp up as well?

Well, I wrote the firmware for the MtnE L6 driver originally, and hardware wise, looks like the the stock SP70 driver is using the same FET Richard's driver uses, so I don't see any gain in power there. Downside is Richard's driver has no support for the switch LED whatsoever, if you are interested in that, unless you upgrade it to NarsilM or Anduril, and assuming you can wire up the LED - not sure if the L6 driver has a pad for that or not, or needs to be wired to a MCU pin.

Other downside of the L6 driver, not sure if it's an issue or not, but we are using a 7135 at voltage levels it's not designed for (6V+). To me it looks like the SP70 is using better, proper parts for the lower output levels channel. Dunno for certain on this, but sure looks like parts rated for higher voltage levels. We've been lucky in using the 7135's this way, but if you go to more power, like 3 XHP70.2's, or 16x XHP50's (like I did), the 7135's do fail. I found this out, and TA - TA used a totally different approach/design in his new high powered 6V+ drivers and got rid of the 7135.

So the L6 driver should fit/mount ok - but also might need the ground ring raised, maybe add a brass ring, because the stock driver has a raised ground ring, probably to compensate for a gap to make contact to the tube.

 

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It seems like people forget that this light was designed ground up as a hot rod, it’s essentially already modded by Sofirn with the assistance of BLF. While there may be some slight gains to be had it’s not necessary to work on the light at all… which was the point in talking a Mfr. into making this kind of light for BLF.

This is exactly why I don’t really offer modding services, no matter how hard I work on a light somebody always wants to take it apart and change something. So I don’t do it. If they’re capable of making changes to my mods they can do the mods themselves. This kind of deal was put together so people that don’t mod can have the benefits of a tweaked design, the optimizations of what we as modders do but straight out of the box. Of course modders will still mod it, for some folks it’s just what they do (I know this all too well) but again, it isn’t necessary and the potential gains are minimal without going to extremes.

Tom E
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+1 Dale, but in addition we also want Sofirn to make lights as easy to mod and repair as reasonably possible, so I can understand the modders asking, and of course the modders are at all different levels of expertise. For the Q8 for example, we insisted on easy access to the driver and LED's, and we need to keep emphasizing and reminding the manufacturers to do so.

Scallywag
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Tom E wrote:

Well, I wrote the firmware for the MtnE L6 driver originally, and hardware wise, looks like the the stock SP70 driver is using the same FET Richard's driver uses, so I don't see any gain in power there. Downside is Richard's driver has no support for the switch LED whatsoever, if you are interested in that, unless you upgrade it to NarsilM or Anduril, and assuming you can wire up the LED - not sure if the L6 driver has a pad for that or not, or needs to be wired to a MCU pin.

Other downside of the L6 driver, not sure if it's an issue or not, but we are using a 7135 at voltage levels it's not designed for (6V+). To me it looks like the SP70 is using better, proper parts for the lower output levels channel. Dunno for certain on this, but sure looks like parts rated for higher voltage levels. We've been lucky in using the 7135's this way, but if you go to more power, like 3 XHP70.2's, or 16x XHP50's (like I did), the 7135's do fail. I found this out, and TA - TA used a totally different approach/design in his new high powered 6V+ drivers and got rid of the 7135.

So the L6 driver should fit/mount ok - but also might need the ground ring raised, maybe add a brass ring, because the stock driver has a raised ground ring, probably to compensate for a gap to make contact to the tube. 

I think I've got that driver in my L6. The 7135 is holding up fine for now. I have noticed some interesting behavior though, the 7135 modes seem brighter when the battery voltage is lower... I don't know what that means. But at fresh charge, I can stare at the moonlight mode all day and the little speckles in the yellow phosphor. When the total voltage is below around 7.6ish, the moonlight gets bright enough that I mostly can't look directly at the emitter.

 

And I did use an MCU pin for my lighted side-switch. It was that or straight up battery voltage.

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Yourrid
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+1 Tom and Dale

I wasn’t trying to insinuate anything with my question; I was just curious as there was a little side-talk about the quality of the FET and the UI ramping.

I purchased 2 Haikelite SC26’s and realized afterwards the UI was pretty terrible, but I haven’t learned how to flash firmware, and the SC26 driver is an odd ball size. So for now, my fix is to just replace the driver if I don’t like the UI. This is what caught my eye:

Tom E wrote:

Ramping works much the same as our standard ramping:
  • to switch between mode set and ramping, 6 clicks
  • direction toggles like NarsilM and Anduril
  • moon mode is not included in ramping, but turbo is – you can ramp up to full max/turbo
  • the ramping is decent, little too long for my taste but appears to logarithmic, not linear, as other makers are doing incorrectly
  • there’s no way to force a ramp up from lowest, like NarsilM does (press&hold from OFF), because press&hold from OFF locks you into moon mode

Tom, if you press and hold from Off, and you go into moon mode, how do you get it to ramp up? Hopefully not turn it off and then back on..

Tom E
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Yes, there's no ramping from moon. Yep, I find this lacking/annoying, but the lowest setting of ramping is pretty low, but not as low as moon. The annoying thing is if you last turned off the light at a high setting, you are gonna get blasted by that high setting, either from a power startup or click to get back into ramping. You can still access moon mode of course independently, but if you want to get back into ramping, you'll get blasted by the last set high level. It kind of violate my (the?) rules of a good UI:

  • simply click for ON and OFF
  • easy access to last level used
  • easy access to max/turbo
  • easy access to the lowest level

So they did provide access to moon directly, but not directly to the lowest ramping level.

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Only mod i would do personally is slice the dome on the LED. Maybe a spring bypass.

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I had thought I understood that moon was an independent setting, I didn’t realize though that because of that you couldn’t enter the ramp at the lowest level from turn on… that potential to come on in high is really a killer, really going to have to look into changing that one.

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It's not a show stopper for me, and think for most it would be ok.

But because simply that I can, I should really look into reverse engineering the circuit a bit more. Looks pretty straight forward as a FET+(device), if so, then I could attempt an MCU swap - swap in a ATtiny85 for the PIC, then run full NarsilM or Anduril -- I've done an MCU swap before, recently for a headlamp.This design is probably superior to our classic FET+1, just wish I knew what that 3 legged part is that is used in place of the 7135. Would help to know to see if it's a true amp regulator, if so, how many amps, and if it can take high rate PWM.

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