@FW3A team, I am not interested in this light anymore.
Since there will be no high CRI light at launch, I do not want to get one, especially after all the promises of getting high CRI LH351Ds, then SST-20s, then XP-L HI only.
Actually that was my point, maybe poorly worded. I imagine the coating Oveready is using is not cheap, therefore its probably not the same coating that’s on these clips, even though it looks like it to me. That said, however, I overlooked one thing when I originally made that comment — the clip from Oveready isn’t cheap, but the coated option is only a couple bucks more than the bare clip. So maybe…
Super cool that there’s a patreon and TK you definitely deserve to get paid, I just hope that there isn’t a mass exodus of conversation to patreon as the most involved/invested/active people move over to that platform causing this place to slowly die off, though I guess that’s less of a potential risk here, I’m still worried as I’ve seen it happen a couple of times
I’m still sitting here and hoping against hope that a high cri option or at the very least drop/solder in boards with high cri LED’s attached would be available soon as this flashlight is otherwise looking to be pretty much perfect for my edc needs.
I used to have a D4 that I ran with comparatively-low amp batteries like the LG MJ1 in order to keep the turbo lower and the heat a bit more manageable. Would that be OK in the FW3A as well? Would there be any downside other than a lower turbo?
sorry if this has already been asked and answered and I missed it, but does anyone know if the clip will be removable without just cutting it off and sanding it down? I prefer to carry lights in the bottom of my pocket and not clipped on
My thoughts when I saw it were also some form of nitride coating. There’s a number of variations, and they tend to be extremely durable. For small parts, the cost should not be too bad in high volumes.
Black oxide is actually a relatively poor finish in terms of wear tolerance and rust prevention, although does ok if kept oiled.
The SST-20 version could be made pretty quickly if we use FB4 tint, but if we wait for FA or FD tint it might take a very long time or never happen at all.
So what should Lumintop do? Should they wait for a good rosy tint bin which might not exist… or use the widely-available FB4 tint which people are already familiar with in other lights?
Yes, actually. You beat everyone else to the punch.
Thanks. It’s super weird for me though. I’ve never been good at accepting praise or gifts… but it’s easier if I think of it as help.
Soon indeed!
I’m, uh, working on scripts to send out private messages. The plan is to send info to each person on the list in the order shown in post #4. But first I need to work out a way to do that. If a script can send one every 30 seconds, it’ll still take over 12 hours. Or perhaps it should intentionally go slower, to give people early on the list more time to order before other people get the info?
So… there are still some details to figure out. But the ordering process is close enough that this sort of thing matters now.
Either one should be fine… or any other cell typicall known for its mAh capacity instead of its peak amperage.
Yeah, based on the first pictures I didn’t think it would be any good… but in person, the dark chrome appearance is nice. I was mostly worried that it would be like some cheap lights I have where black paint comes off the clip easily and then it looks bad. But it doesn’t seem to be like that.
I have no idea how durable it is, but I doubt it’s as tough as those black nitride clips. It kinda reminds me of the finish on my rainbow titanium Olight, which I think is supposed to be PVD. But I’m usually pretty gentle with my lights, so I don’t see how things wear until they’ve been around a long time.
Ish. Sort of, but not very well. It lacks the hardware necessary to sense actual current, so even the best implementation would be approximate. It won’t be able to sustain a flat output level. It also won’t be very accurate, since voltage measurements vary from one driver to the next. So instead of spending bytes and adding complexity for a feature which would be mediocre or worse, it’s just using a simple 50% duty cycle.
I doubt I could make a mass exodus happen even if I tried… but more importantly, I don’t want to. If anything, that’s the opposite of what I want. BLF has a good community and I want it to stay healthy.
Yes. A standard Noctigon or Mtn board fits nicely. That’s what I’m using, actually. It’s easy to swap out the MCPCB.
As long as the battery itself doesn’t get overdriven, it should be fine. So I wouldn’t recommend using UltraFire cells unless you want ActualFire… but any reputable battery should work.
If the production models are like my sample, yes. The clip can be removed by unscrewing the tail. I recommend putting a thicker O-ring in the clip groove though, just to fill the gap for tactile purposes.