FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

May I please add 2 additional units to my initial request? Thanks

sorry if this has already been asked and answered and I missed it, but does anyone know if the clip will be removable without just cutting it off and sanding it down? I prefer to carry lights in the bottom of my pocket and not clipped on

My impression is that it is removable. Some of bluzieā€™s photos show the production sample with the clip removed.

My thoughts when I saw it were also some form of nitride coating. Thereā€™s a number of variations, and they tend to be extremely durable. For small parts, the cost should not be too bad in high volumes.

Black oxide is actually a relatively poor finish in terms of wear tolerance and rust prevention, although does ok if kept oiled.

This brings up a big question:

The SST-20 version could be made pretty quickly if we use FB4 tint, but if we wait for FA or FD tint it might take a very long time or never happen at all.

So what should Lumintop do? Should they wait for a good rosy tint bin which might not existā€¦ or use the widely-available FB4 tint which people are already familiar with in other lights?

FB4 tint plus Lee Minus-Green zircon filter. :wink:

Go with the FB4. Maybe it can even be ready at launch along with the XP-L HI?

Yes, actually. You beat everyone else to the punch. :slight_smile:

Thanks. Itā€™s super weird for me though. Iā€™ve never been good at accepting praise or giftsā€¦ but itā€™s easier if I think of it as help.

Soon indeed!

Iā€™m, uh, working on scripts to send out private messages. The plan is to send info to each person on the list in the order shown in post #4. But first I need to work out a way to do that. If a script can send one every 30 seconds, itā€™ll still take over 12 hours. Or perhaps it should intentionally go slower, to give people early on the list more time to order before other people get the info?

Soā€¦ there are still some details to figure out. But the ordering process is close enough that this sort of thing matters now.

Either one should be fineā€¦ or any other cell typicall known for its mAh capacity instead of its peak amperage.

Yeah, based on the first pictures I didnā€™t think it would be any goodā€¦ but in person, the dark chrome appearance is nice. I was mostly worried that it would be like some cheap lights I have where black paint comes off the clip easily and then it looks bad. But it doesnā€™t seem to be like that.

I have no idea how durable it is, but I doubt itā€™s as tough as those black nitride clips. It kinda reminds me of the finish on my rainbow titanium Olight, which I think is supposed to be PVD. But Iā€™m usually pretty gentle with my lights, so I donā€™t see how things wear until theyā€™ve been around a long time.

Ish. Sort of, but not very well. It lacks the hardware necessary to sense actual current, so even the best implementation would be approximate. It wonā€™t be able to sustain a flat output level. It also wonā€™t be very accurate, since voltage measurements vary from one driver to the next. So instead of spending bytes and adding complexity for a feature which would be mediocre or worse, itā€™s just using a simple 50% duty cycle.

I doubt I could make a mass exodus happen even if I triedā€¦ but more importantly, I donā€™t want to. If anything, thatā€™s the opposite of what I want. BLF has a good community and I want it to stay healthy.

Yes. A standard Noctigon or Mtn board fits nicely. Thatā€™s what Iā€™m using, actually. Itā€™s easy to swap out the MCPCB.

As long as the battery itself doesnā€™t get overdriven, it should be fine. So I wouldnā€™t recommend using UltraFire cells unless you want ActualFireā€¦ but any reputable battery should work.

If the production models are like my sample, yes. The clip can be removed by unscrewing the tail. I recommend putting a thicker O-ring in the clip groove though, just to fill the gap for tactile purposes.

Iā€™m one of those waiting for a high CRI option.

I am in favor of proceeding with either the FB4 tint of the SST-20, or with the LH351D even if it means raising the price a little bit.

Iā€™m unaware that anyone has ever seen an FA4 or FD4 bin anywhere other than the datasheet. Iā€™d love to be proven wrong, but otherwise, it seems like weā€™re waiting for an emitter that doesnā€™t exist.

Disclaimer: Iā€™m only moderately sensitive to green tints, and planning to mod to test multiple different types of emitters anyways. I wonā€™t be offended if my vote gets low weight as a result.

Iā€™m all for just getting it done. I think most people here are cluey enough to replace emitters if FA/FD ever become widely available.

The SST-20 version could be made pretty quickly if we use FB4 tint,
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how many K is this?

4k 95FPS average and 80FPS minimumā€¦

Use the FB4, its a cheap emitter and will lower the cost for those of use that plan on putting our own ledā€™s in.

Has anyone tried tint mixing the SST-20? I wouldnā€™t expect Lumintop to do it might be a good option.

Iā€™d take FB4 now.

As there are currently no sources of small quantities of F A/D 1/4, I would buy several more later if it came out with those emitters.

Definitely the FB4.

4000k 95CRI

I have a D4S with mixed 4000k and 3000k SST-20. Iā€™m really pleased with the result! I believe TK has the ultimate mix in her D18, though.

In for 3 if still taking reservations.

Excellent news! I canā€™t wait to swap rosy Nichias into my FW3A. :partying_face:

Youā€™re very welcome! :+1:

Thank you for the pics of the latest prototype.

I have AndĆŗril on eleven lights, but I might try your DarkHorse UI on the FW3A since it will accompany the two or three ZebraLights I carry daily.

I donā€™t have that one updated to work with three channels, but I could do that if people are interested. Itā€™s just not something anyone has really expressed interest in before, so it hasnā€™t had any meaningful updates since I first created it in 2017.