[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies E07 7* Nichia/ SST20/ XP-L HI Emitters 21700 Flashlight Group Buy -【 New Copper+Titanium 】

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sandro
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Hi Freeme, I have the same question:
Any news about cu+ti e07 edition?When will they open for sale?

saypat
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I’m sort of glad these are not available as I would be forced to buy one and I already own the fantastic E07.




and with red auxiliary LEDs for sure I couldn’t say no.

ichoderso
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Smile

koolranch
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Are these available and how much??

ichoderso wrote:
Smile

!https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WWAKg_aNH1Qph3Kr6oSZON1Aq5suNfDMiXq-gq...!

ichoderso
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[quote=koolranch]Are these available and how much??

[quote=ichoderso]

it was one of the prototypes, official available end of may I heared…
Jens

DB Custom
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Now isn’t that just the prettiest little thing? Big Smile

Sign me up, y’all know I’m all over that!

ichoderso
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Wink

freeme
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©freemex1thedeals.com

DB Custom
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Mine need that copper! Samsung LH351D W6’s on a 30T pull enough to make 7170 lumens! Big Smile

BlueSwordM
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These are 80CRI, yes?

At 85% optical efficiency, you are probably outputting around 8400 lumens.

That’s 84W of power in a single 21700 light…

That is insane.

You need all the heat capacity you can get.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

SKV89
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DB Custom wrote:
Mine need that copper! Samsung LH351D W6’s on a 30T pull enough to make 7170 lumens! Big Smile

My brightest E07 with the XP-L HI v3 5000k makes about 7,400 lumens at 1s. Actual numbers was posted in this thread but too lazy to look it up.

mortuus
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DB Custom wrote:
Mine need that copper! Samsung LH351D W6’s on a 30T pull enough to make 7170 lumens! Big Smile

dont forget u can fry an egg on the copper head too probably Wink

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

DB Custom
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The E07 I measured at 7170 has no other changes besides the emitter swap. The LH351D W6 5000K are, I believe, 70 CRI.

Oddly enough, I like the color they make better than the 80 CRI version that also claims 5000K.

Lux-Perpetua
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Yes, LH351D 5.000K W6 has 70CRI. Its beam doesn't look that much different to its 90CRI counterpart, at least when shining against a white wall. While they produce a floodier beam they still appear to have the best rendition of actual white light between hot spot and spill, i.e. no fried eggs to be found. Silly

DB Custom
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I am not sure why but I was somewhat resistant to try them, but now I love em and have used about a hundred already. Big Smile

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mine needs to be full copper.. all of it please

Closer
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Hello I would like copper / Ti and Battery volt after Charging is 4,21 volt battery for turbo mode and shutdown please at 3,50 volt for the red ones battery led.

Thank you!

mortuus
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Figgy wrote:
mine needs to be full copper.. all of it please

that would been a very very bad idea for this type of light, it would look very nice too but hardly useful… Sad

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Figgy
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haha yeah just like all the other Cu lights the get super hot everywhere

mortuus
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or they could make a full copper version and lower the max output, then it would be usable .

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Figgy
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mortuus wrote:
or they could make a full copper version and lower the max output, then it would be usable .

exactly why I’d like mine in full copper no need for max plus I dont use my lights on turbo at all unless to show off to friends other then that maybe 50% brightness most of time mabye 75% but never 100 or turbo

freeme
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Too heavy.

Figgy wrote:
mine needs to be full copper.. all of it please

©freemex1thedeals.com

mattadores
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@DB Custom

Hey Dale!

I’m new to modding and you seem like one of the core modders around here who is also very active on the site! Would I be able to pick your brain a little?

I spoke with TA about a good emitter supplier for Canada and KD is good but carries limited stock. I found what appears to be a very good US/CA supplier https://www.mouser.ca/ and they appear to have most of the stuff I’m looking for (other than any LH351B Tired ). lol good but also is the root of my questions…. They have so much stuff I don’t know where to begin (other than emitters).

1- I have a crappy old solder gun and an el-cheapo soldering iron which takes like 1.5min to melt solder using 18g copper wires. What wattage soldering iron do you recommend? (many advise that when dealing with thick copper mcpcbs and such that high wattage is required due to the heat dissipation)
2- For re-flowing I need solder paste and hoped it would be more simple than the 100 options they appear to have listed on mouser: https://www.mouser.ca/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?Keyword=solder+paste&FS=True can you help me choose or recommend something that’s easily available? or confirm if anything will do and it doesn’t matter?
3- I normally only use rosin core solder and want to know if that’s fine or if there’s something specific I should be using instead? example: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/solder-1-8in-x-1lb-rsn-flux-cr/A-p8740235e *also wondering if the thickness of the solder matters or not?
4- solder flux is something I use already but it’s a little tub with a brush and I’m thinking for circuit boards there’s some specifics I need? like no clean or what not? lol again, 10 examples on mouser https://www.mouser.ca/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Soldering-Flux/_/N-b11wf?Keyword=solder+paste&FS=True

Thank you for any help you can provide!

My first mod will be my FT03 that arrived DOA and was credited by BG. My plan is to put in a white flat. lol on that note: I posted my interest in lexels new white flat FT03 boards. Do I need to replace the board instead of just re-flowing the led? If I buy a board from lexel I assume it’s a blank board and I’ll have to remove all components off of my stock FT03 board and re-solder them to the new white flat board right? and finally – if that’s the case, is it common for you guys instead of doing that to just buy the drivers and resistors and everything else on the board and build a new one instead of re-using the stock stuff?

lol I’m excited Big Smile but I’m a total newb when it comes to circuit board/micro electronic modding/repair and need some help wading through the 1 000 000 options

DB Custom
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I’ve used Mouser a lot before, they’re in North Texas up near TA actually. The problem I’ve had with them in the past is that they don’t really sell specific bins, they usually sell groups. So it can be a bit iffy getting the right tint. I prefer Arrow for that reason and their shipping is usually cheaper if not free.

I use an Hakko soldering station, one of the 888 analog units. Works fine. Also picked up a hot air machine from Spark Fun, good solid unit in it’s own right.

I use Kester solder, exclusively. The .031 resin core 63/47 for soldering and their Solder Paste for re-flows and driver building. Leaded solder, for it’s lower melting point.

I never use solder flux. Never. There’s enough in the core of the small wire to do the job for me, well over 600 lights built and haven’t had a problem, don’t know how many hundreds of drivers I’ve put together. I just don’t use flux. I have some here, just never use it. I bought the flux because everyone said it was necessary, never have found that to be true. I even leave the large bevel tip on my soldering iron for almost everything. If I have a small SMD or cap or something to solder I use the corner of the tip.

I buy LED’s on-board pretty often, knowing sometimes that I’ll use it as is or sometimes I want the board for other stuff and I pull the emitter from the one it came on. Much easier to just swap out the emitter board with one that already has the emitter on it, especially for the White Flat as it’s actually a little smaller than the XP footprint and on many boards can be somewhat finicky to reflow.

I started out with an HD2010 that wouldn’t work out of the box, after some modding to it I learned it was fun, sometimes challenging, and I did more and more. I remember a neighbor once being startled that I had 29 flashlights! “How many Flashlights do you need!?” I immediately said “30”. Big Smile I’ve sold a bunch when we had issues with a new car and bought another, am back up to having over 230 lights here. And so it goes.

DB Custom
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I should tell you that the White Flat is a tough one to be starting on. It can be tough to focus because it’s so small. Don’t get discouraged, stay at it, be careful with the soldering iron tip and avoid flux splatter onto the emitter when soldering the leads onto the board. Enjoy!

mattadores
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Thanks Dale!

I’ll check out Arrow for sure. I also noticed that mouser didn’t offer bins and had a single version of the emitters only.

appreciate all the answers!

mattadores
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lol well hopefully everything goes ok otherwise I’ll learn from good old trial and error. hopefully no rage fits

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freeme wrote:

Too heavy.


Figgy wrote:
mine needs to be full copper.. all of it please

for you idk about heavy plus its gonna be for show off on my side

mattadores
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Figgy wrote:
freeme wrote:

Too heavy.


Figgy wrote:
mine needs to be full copper.. all of it please

for you idk about heavy plus its gonna be for show off on my side

I recently got an Olight M2R copper edition and holy balls of fire is this thing a chunk of lead!

just for everyone’s reference how heavy a solid copper light becomes:

Standard Olight M2R 155gr 0.34-lbs (w/batt)
Copper Olight M2R 276gr 0.6-lbs (w/batt)

In a single 18650 light that’s a 78% increase in overall weight!!

Damn sure looks cool though!

LOL and one thing that was overlooked: the tailcap magnetic charger that is also a tailcap magnet…. yeah it doesn’t work so well when you make the light 80% heavier… lol hear magnet attach, let go, BOOM on floor Facepalm

DB Custom
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Y’all are funny. I chopped a Maglite to make it 1D and used a 291 gram copper pill, yes the copper alone weighs 291 grams!

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