FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I would like to purchase 1.

… the FW3A is just a flashlight, right :wink:

Please send me the code

every package will have a tracking number

No….it seems to be a quest—maybe a grail.

Probably a 35E cell or a Panasonic 3400 mAh cell, or something similar. This light isn’t about maximum lumens on turbo, it’s more designed for practical daily use. And for that, the highest mAh rating is typically best.

It just needs to be an unprotected cell to make it fit. Flat-top and button-top should both work.

Since you’re in the US, I’d suggest a Mtn triple from MtnElectronics.com. They come with a variety of different emitters already soldered on; just pick your favorite type.

Maukka’s review has very detailed information about the beam pattern, including quantitative graphs of the intensity at different angles.

A submersible candle which, unfortunately, still doesn’t have a good diffuser cone available.

The best fit I’ve found is the Fenix AOD-S, but it’s not great. I’d like something more like the Olight TW1 or TW10… but with the correct diameter to fit this light.

I’ve used both. They both have a self shutoff timer, but sunset mode’s brightness and timing is hardcoded while candle mode’s brightness and timing are configurable. I still need to bring sunset mode up to par, but it hasn’t been a priority.

I think what you’re looking for is LH351D.

Both 3D and 7A have a rosy tint, since they’re both below the BBL. And they’re both meant to be relatively throwy. But LH351D is typically not rosy, and it is much more floody.

As for optics, 10508 and 10509 both look almost the same during use. They’re both very floody.

Welcome to BLF! :slight_smile:

Your coupon code is scheduled to be sent in the second batch, sometime tomorrow. Messages are happening in the order people requested lights, so the most recent ones are last.

I would like one. Thanks

we will try to find the best SST20 for the FW3A,
supplier said next month will have

I know it was said a little ways back, the thread is hot and everything gets buried fast, but ToyKeeper? Cool white eliminates a target downrange better than warm white. I’ve got pictures proving it with both emitters in a GT hitting a water tower at 1.9 miles, in a light rain. I’ve got pictures both looking down the beam and from the side at a closer range (I drove to within a few hundred yards of the tower and shot photo’s from off line right, very plain to see that the cool white was putting more light with higher resolution on the tower.

At long distances high CRI is really irrelevant, so the warmer High CRI emitters tend to be better for close range work where the eye can actually see the color difference. This may, once again, be a preference thing, but my photo’s show clearly to me and my friends that I modded the GT’s for that the Cool White out throws a warmer tint.

Now, most of this won’t come into play with this flashlight as it certainly is not a thrower. The optic design just isn’t capable.

And as far as changing emitters goes, this one should be quite easy to anyone that already knows how to reflow an emitter. The bezel comes off, the optic comes out, de-solder the leads and remove the MCPCB, do your deed and reverse the process. I can usually do this in less than 10 minutes when everything is cooperational. :wink:

Edit: Buy a new MCPCB with your preferred emitters on it and the swap can be done in minutes, it’s as easy as desoldering, replacing, resoldering and reassembly, a few minutes. Really.

And our current coupon code will apply then?

Hi Dale. Did you test the theory that warm tints penetrate fog, smoke and dust better? If not, I might get both of these tints on th FW3A and see. Thanks.

I would like to purchase 1
Thanks

I’d love to purchase a light!

Thanks

Don’t worry, you will not be ripped off.

Helios, in order to penetrate smoke or dust the beam is going to have to be tight, as with fog a broad floody beam will merely make a wall in front of the viewer. The triple Carclo optics are going to make more of a wall than they will allow for any kind of real penetration, a different kind of light will be needed in that instance. In heavy dust or smoke, you’re just not going to see into it more than a short distance with anything less than an intense beam and that will in itself be limiting in the small hot spot. It’s a tough scenario to break through.

If it’s not too late, put me on the list for one light.

I have to say that I am really thankful and so impressed by the work and time input of so many here on BLF - on this project but so many others as well. My old account has probably been purged by now and I’ll be darned if I can remember what it was anyway, so I had to make a new one…have been lurking off and on for several years, learning and appreciating the fantastic content. TK, Fritz, Tom, Neal, everyone involved in this light for the last couple years, big thanks to you for everything you all contributed - this really does look like a winner. I have some LH351 5K 90CRI on the way from digikey and will probably put those into this light but even with “just” the XPL HI this package has so much going for it. Can’t wait to get it. Still getting to know my FT03 so something to pass the time until then. :slight_smile:

True, but the same light and emitter class with CW vs WW for penetration - while on a clear night CW will throw more, will CE get more caught up on particles in the air? Suppose there’s only one way to find out, really :wink:

For those who need an update, just passed 1187.

I’m interested in one.

coupon still work