I’ve used Mouser a lot before, they’re in North Texas up near TA actually. The problem I’ve had with them in the past is that they don’t really sell specific bins, they usually sell groups. So it can be a bit iffy getting the right tint. I prefer Arrow for that reason and their shipping is usually cheaper if not free.
I use an Hakko soldering station, one of the 888 analog units. Works fine. Also picked up a hot air machine from Spark Fun, good solid unit in it’s own right.
I use Kester solder, exclusively. The .031 resin core 63/47 for soldering and their Solder Paste for re-flows and driver building. Leaded solder, for it’s lower melting point.
I never use solder flux. Never. There’s enough in the core of the small wire to do the job for me, well over 600 lights built and haven’t had a problem, don’t know how many hundreds of drivers I’ve put together. I just don’t use flux. I have some here, just never use it. I bought the flux because everyone said it was necessary, never have found that to be true. I even leave the large bevel tip on my soldering iron for almost everything. If I have a small SMD or cap or something to solder I use the corner of the tip.
I buy LED’s on-board pretty often, knowing sometimes that I’ll use it as is or sometimes I want the board for other stuff and I pull the emitter from the one it came on. Much easier to just swap out the emitter board with one that already has the emitter on it, especially for the White Flat as it’s actually a little smaller than the XP footprint and on many boards can be somewhat finicky to reflow.
I started out with an HD2010 that wouldn’t work out of the box, after some modding to it I learned it was fun, sometimes challenging, and I did more and more. I remember a neighbor once being startled that I had 29 flashlights! “How many Flashlights do you need!?” I immediately said “30”. I’ve sold a bunch when we had issues with a new car and bought another, am back up to having over 230 lights here. And so it goes.
I should tell you that the White Flat is a tough one to be starting on. It can be tough to focus because it’s so small. Don’t get discouraged, stay at it, be careful with the soldering iron tip and avoid flux splatter onto the emitter when soldering the leads onto the board. Enjoy!
In a single 18650 light that’s a 78% increase in overall weight!!
Damn sure looks cool though!
LOL and one thing that was overlooked: the tailcap magnetic charger that is also a tailcap magnet…. yeah it doesn’t work so well when you make the light 80% heavier… lol hear magnet attach, let go, BOOM on floor :person_facepalming:
lol 1-lb fidget spinners and 2-lb 1d maglights are definitely heavier and cooler. I just that the E07 won’t have as much market due to the weight… That or all mfg’s charge a premium for titanium which is why they want to desperately use it.
on that note: did you all hear that the GT4 is currently spec’d to weigh a ridiculous 7-lbs!
lol the BLF GT it’s based off only weighs 4-lbs
gotta love slabs o metal to get that heat outta there!
Imagine a luxury version of the GT4 in solid copper!
BG is offering the MT03 PB for $239 with BGMT03
M4dm4x is offering the MT03 PB for $219 with code MMT03
Haikelite MT03 Pure brass
XHP70.2 21000Lumens Flashlight
available in 500K and 6500K
Limited Edition!
M4DM4X deal: US$219.-
use the code: MMT03
Max’s deal is the best I’ve seen so far. The deal above is also available on his blog and doesn’t require sign-up to m4dm4x which is why I’ve posted it
Nah… I really really really wish that fireflies would make a brass e07 this thing would be perfect but the one you showed me im like nope I thought i would like it and nah too big
I’ve sold a bunch when we had issues with a new car and bought another, am back up to having over 230 lights here. And so it goes.
this thing would be perfect but the one you showed me im like nope I thought i would like it and nah too big