Thanks for posting about this and including pictures!
That confirms the driver isnât glued, and it also confirms the driver fit issue is completely fixed.
Also, if someone doesnât know thereâs a notch in the driver, it can be easy to miss⌠and then itâll be confusing to figure out why the light doesnât fit together quite right.
One of my 2 FW3A is not tightened.
This ring is very thin and the structure may not be very strong.
Maybe bring the retaining ring out when disassembling the battery.
But the chances should be small. Because it is not easy to disassemble.
Some retaining rings may have Burr.
You can take it off and trim it, or grind it with sandpaper. (Observant)
I was hoping somebody would run 3xXHP50.2 3V in there But I havenât seen any triple MCPCBs that would fit.
The end result would probably be a hot light after 2 seconds.
That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. Thatâs less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.
If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasnât TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?
There is a firmware sub-version in her repository for anyone who wants to be conservative with the 219B. It limits the FET channel to 50%. It is also possible to create your own firmware version with different ramp levels.
Because the red XP-E2 has a low forward voltage (and the photo red and far red even lower still), it is probably advisable to avoid FET use entirely unless youâre willing to risk killing a set.
On the other hand, the red and green XP-E2âs seem to have fairly high foward voltages and might work ok with FETs.
Thank you for providing this information. Hopefully itâs an uncommon situation, as itâll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
I wasnât so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube wonât make contact at both ends.
Well Iâm not concerned in the leastâŚ. just throwing suggestions out there, you donât know unless you try, thats what modding is all about, if it donât work, fall back, regroup and attack, repeatâŚ
Personally I like the light just as it is, well these 2x3D FW3Aâs I got, no modding needed, but the next 2 warm yuck yellow FW3Aâs will be subjected to all kinds of âŚâŚfun!
. If you run out of room, maybe a contact on the cap end?
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
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can we assume that tightening would be âclockwiseâ? Thanks.