FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

There’s my answer looking me in the face. I guess I didn’t think it through . :frowning:

Bead blasted titanium gets my vote. Other aluminium colours could also be tempting.

…Or silver / clear version?… runs and hides… Only kidding, I don’t like these as they can’t be hard locked out.

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.

Interesting design, thanks for sharing Tally-ho. :+1:

The spring of the novatac is working the same as the inner tube of the FW3A, but with time if the spring wears off, it won’t be a problem due to its adaptable length.

I think that is the thinnest retaining ring I have ever seen. When I first went to check mine for tightness I didn’t even see it & thought… “oh crap, it’s glued after all”. :person_facepalming:

But after closer inspection, there it was. Both of mine were tight btw. :+1:

Innovation & adaptability…. I love it!!
This would make a good ‘ToyKeeper video’ btw. :+1: . :wink:

I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting! :partying_face:

At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 x 7 + 1 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm briefly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

EDIT: The internal temperature was reading 36°C when it should have been 24°C. I reset it and Turbo lasted 15 seconds before stepdown.

thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

There is no timed stepdown in Anduril (I’m pretty sure). It’s all temperature related and it gets hot quick! Like Toykeeper has been saying, Turbo is really just a short “burst” mode. It does not last long at all.

Damn near exactly what I measured on my T/A Maukka light tube…3360 with 30Q flat top and a VTC5a…which is close to the Max for a V2 XP-L HI thru optics and lens, the most I have ever seen was around 1250lms. in reflector lights. I like the 3D (nothing warmer though…)

The stepdown is temperature based and can be configured for a higher or lower temp range.

Yes, triple emitter FET driven lights this small will get hot FAST. The FW3A has one less emitter than the D4 (so lower wattage) but probably less thermal mass, certainly less in the head of the light.

wow - incredible. Thanks guys. What a little fire starter this is!

My FW3A shipped, earlier than I expected considering my place on the list. I went with the free shipping and I’ve received my tracking number.

Is DHL Paket the right carrier to select at 17Track?

Yes, and mine is still the factory calibration which could be off a little. I’ll try to see if it’s accurate.

With a high capacity 3400+ cell you might see a bit less lumens, but you’ll probably gain extra Turbo time. I’ll try out some other cells I have laying around.

I also have all 4 of the Carclo lenses and the stock one seems to be the best, in my opinion. The clear 07 is a tiny bit tighter focused, but I see yellow streaks in the hot spot when shined on a whitewall or equivalent. Eh, it’s not worth using in my opinion. The 08 and 09 are nice if you need a wider spot, and don’t need the distance.

The 10511 is called a narrow spot. 22° (lightly frosted)
The 10508 is called a medium spot. 27° (heavier frosted)
The 10509 is called a wide spot. 40° (heaviest frosted)

The 10507 is the non-frosted, clear version with a narrow spot. 18°

Actually, it would not surprise me if the physical dimensions of all four lenses we’re identical and the beam angle difference is strictly due to the amount of frosting on the surface. Here is a picture in the same order as above.


.

My FW3A is saying it’s 38°C, when room temp is about 24°C. I’ll make sure it’s fully cooled down internally (when I wake up later) and then check it again. At the moment, my light is probably stepping down a little bit prematurely. Once I reset it, I’ll measure the stepdown time again.

Maukka got 20 seconds out of his light with a 30Q, but he calibrated the ambient temperature as well as bumped the default step down temp of 45°C to a slightly higher 55°C.

Has anyone found a diffuser that works well with FW3A that they like?

I did think this was interesting, but I didn’t see anyone finding anything “ready to go” that works well by searching the thread.

Was it momentary or did it stay on?

My first thought from the description is he got it in 5-click momentary mode.