If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
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can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.
Thanks, TK. I was just concerned about tightening enough so that it doesn’t loosen later on. I have a cheap pair of split ring pliers that is a little soft—the tips can bend—and I’m just waiting to spot a good deal on a new pair.
What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:
!!
Picture credit to JasonWW
The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.
When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.
_
It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.
!!
_
Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?
!!
_
And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.
!!
I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.
delusional wrote:
What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:
Picture credit to JasonWW
The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.
When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.
_
It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.
_
Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?
_
And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.
I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.
…
@ delusional … If you want to resize your pics I’ll delete this.
That’s the main symptom of a switch tube contact issue. I haven’t seen it happen on my production sample, but I know the issue well from seeing it on earlier prototypes.
Loosen the tail a bit, loosen the head, then tighten the tail as much as you can, then tighten the head. The issue should go away.
If the issue returns, loosen the head, tighten the tail again as much as you can, then tighten the head. Try to keep the tail as tight as possible. And always tighten it tail-first.