ā¦ am I a bad person if I say yes?*
I mentioned that not even Neal knows because of a message he sent me yesterday. Iād rather not go into detail, but itās definitely not certain yet.
ā¦ am I a bad person if I say yes?*
I mentioned that not even Neal knows because of a message he sent me yesterday. Iād rather not go into detail, but itās definitely not certain yet.
Now Iām tempted to sandpaper and polish a FW3A. Itād make the flat areas and high spots shiny silver while leaving darker ano color in the low areas.
But itād look better if it had started with black anodizing. More contrast.
Thatās the main symptom of a switch tube contact issue. I havenāt seen it happen on my production sample, but I know the issue well from seeing it on earlier prototypes.
Loosen the tail a bit, loosen the head, then tighten the tail as much as you can, then tighten the head. The issue should go away.
If the issue returns, loosen the head, tighten the tail again as much as you can, then tighten the head. Try to keep the tail as tight as possible. And always tighten it tail-first.
Thanks Toykeeper, that seems to have done the trick!
Thanks for the info Neal, that is starting to sound much better. :+1:
@Toykeeper, I was certain until Neal said the same thing to me too, via someone else of course.
Yes, but feeling certain isnāt the same thing as having accurate information. Thereās a reason why there are so many adages and quotes about certainty, like counting chickens before they hatch.
In other wordsā¦.
Please donāt announce things which arenāt confirmed.
and i looked into the ānubbie situationā (and found something new)
How about a dab of quality rubber cement for the nub?
It will remain flexible as opposed to the rigidity of cured superglue.
A dot under the nub, and a thin smear over the sides and surface would create a cocoon for that little nub to live in for good.
Hmm, looks like I could fit about 57 20mm cylinders on my build plate, perhaps more if I crowd them in manually.
Estimated time of around 3 hours per plate.
My filament supplier has gitd on hand, I could pick it up tomorrow.
But on the other hand, PLA has a lower melting point than silicone, I was able to soften the top of a broken print with my D4 in around a minute.
This could melt inside of a light.
Is a 3d-printed gasket appealing?
Guys and gals, I have received my units. All are in perfect order and working. I just wanted to say the wait was worth it. ALL OF YOU DID AN AMAZING JOB ON THIS LIGHT!!!
Side note - ordered 30qās with mine. Anyone elseās come bone dead and have to revive them? Lol
Of course you have to charge them.
There are multiple reasons for coming close to dead during shipping:
1. Less energy stored = less risks for damage in an absolute worst case.
2. Lower voltage = lower self-discharge and better cycle life.
Of course you have to charge them.
There are multiple reasons for coming close to dead during shipping:
1. Less energy stored = less risks for damage in an absolute worst case.
2. Lower voltage = lower self-discharge and better cycle life.
Yes of course I have to charge themā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦ _
Maybe bone dead wasnāt specific enough. My charger had to do itās revive cycle on them to get them going. Took about 5-6 hours to get them about 75% charge as it had to do alot of trickle charging. My previous 40+ units of 30qās came about 20% charged. Again just wondering if this was just me. Not complaining just asking a question that doesnāt need a smartass response.
Ah ok.
Must have been around 2,5-3,0V.
Absolute perfect for shipping, but not too smart for storage.
Typical shipping voltages are about 3.4v as set by the aviation industry. I forget the details. Itās usually not below 3v.
Do you know the voltage the cells were?
Anything below 2.5v or so could be fatal.
Ah ok.
Must have been around 2,5-3,0V.
Absolute perfect for shipping, but not too smart for storage.
I would agree. Iām thinking I got some hot and fresh out of the battery extruder
Typical shipping voltages are about 3.4v as set by the aviation industry. I forget the details. Itās usually not below 3v.
Do you know the voltage the cells were?
Anything below 2.5v or so could be fatal.
I sure didnāt even check. Thatās my bad. I just stuck them in the charger and walked away. 20 mins later I noticed the ārevivalā cycle or whatever the fancy name is was active. I will say all 5 Batts are under 40m(ohm symbol) lol first time thatās happened
Is the innovative switch construction done to keep the tailcap as short as possible, vs. the usual larger switch types?
No, I havenāt been following the 10,000 comments here over the last few years here, so I do not know everything āweā are aware of.
Just curious.
Hi guys, Iām a bit confused at the moment.
I read the first page of this thread and jumped to about page 310 and read until now. I initially found out about the FW3A from redditās /r/flashlight, about a month ago, when I was looking for suggestions on replacing my Zebralight SC62w as an everyday carry light.
Iām seeing multiple mentions about a list and you should express your interest in purchasing/being put on that list. Is that still going on or can I buy directly from Nealās website?
I found a link to the store page on a recent /r/flashlight post about someone receiving their FW3A. On that recent post of the FW3A, I asked which one to get to be as close to the Zebralight SC62wās tint and I was informed to go for the SST-20. With the recent postings about the uncertainty of acquiring SST-20s and I have a camping trip coming in late June, should I order one of the existing options?
I wouldnāt say Iām a tint snob, I actually donāt know too much about emitters, tints, etc. Iād just prefer the color of what Iām illuminating to be accurate to as if during daytime. Iāve had a few lights in the past where they were very cool white and made colors appear blue-ish/washed out. However, I do enjoy a light that can have the longest and/or brightest output too (for fun!). With that said, should I wait for the SST-20s or pick from an existing option? If picking from an existing option, which would be better for matching the Zebralight SC62wās tint so that colors look their true colors? Iāve tried looking up some of these options but couldnāt really find a definite answer or I didnāt quite understand what what being discussed.